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I'm going to buy a gym: advice?
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Valarc


Sep 11, 2008, 11:45 AM
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Re: [jakedatc] I'm going to buy a gym: advice? [In reply to]
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I agree route setting is absolutely key for a climber's gym - you've gotta keep those memberships up, which means you want people coming back over and over again.

Hold of the month clubs are also quite awesome. I would stay away from the So Ill hold of the month club, though... I cancelled my subscription a few months ago because I found their monthly sets to be kinda lame. They just came out with a whole line of AWESOME grips, and almost none of them were included in any of the hold of the month clubs. Most companies debut new sets by sending them to subscribers first, before they are available to the general public. The customer service from Daniel is truly awesome, and So Ill sells some incredibly great holds... which is why the monthly sets were so disappointing! They were decent grips, but nowhere near the awesomeness I'm used to from So Ill.

I prefer the E-grips or Project monthly sets, but there are a lot more companies out there with subscription programs, so take your pick. E-grips always sends out new designs in their monthly sets, and I believe Project does as well. Contact, Climb-It, Rock Candy Holds, and Nicros also have subscription programs, and all of them make good or great holds.


jakedatc


Sep 11, 2008, 2:03 PM
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Re: [Valarc] I'm going to buy a gym: advice? [In reply to]
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hmm.. that doe suck. our main setter is the E. Coast rep for so ill so we get new so ill stuff all the time anyway. so i dunno what is what.


Gmburns2000


Sep 11, 2008, 2:39 PM
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Re: [Valarc] I'm going to buy a gym: advice? [In reply to]
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Valarc wrote:
I agree route setting is absolutely key for a climber's gym - you've gotta keep those memberships up, which means you want people coming back over and over again.

Hold of the month clubs are also quite awesome. I would stay away from the So Ill hold of the month club, though... I cancelled my subscription a few months ago because I found their monthly sets to be kinda lame. They just came out with a whole line of AWESOME grips, and almost none of them were included in any of the hold of the month clubs. Most companies debut new sets by sending them to subscribers first, before they are available to the general public. The customer service from Daniel is truly awesome, and So Ill sells some incredibly great holds... which is why the monthly sets were so disappointing! They were decent grips, but nowhere near the awesomeness I'm used to from So Ill.

I prefer the E-grips or Project monthly sets, but there are a lot more companies out there with subscription programs, so take your pick. E-grips always sends out new designs in their monthly sets, and I believe Project does as well. Contact, Climb-It, Rock Candy Holds, and Nicros also have subscription programs, and all of them make good or great holds.

Our gym buys a lot of seconds (read: "defective" holds) before it buys new stuff. The defective holds are often ones that are not painted correctly, or not shaped well enough, stuff that the gym user (or even the normal consumer) would care less about but the QC for the hold company cares a lot about. It's way cheaper than buying only new holds.


Valarc


Sep 11, 2008, 2:50 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] I'm going to buy a gym: advice? [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Our gym buys a lot of seconds (read: "defective" holds) before it buys new stuff.

You know, I've tried to do this many times... even now, I'm waiting for emails from two companies that promised me lists of their cosmetic seconds available for sale. I have never actually successfully purchased these holds, though.


socalbolter


Sep 11, 2008, 2:51 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] I'm going to buy a gym: advice? [In reply to]
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Where is this gym located?

Good luck with the purchase. If it goes through, get in touch via email or PM and I'll help however I can. Been involved in a lot of gym renovations and overhauls and I think I have a decent understanding of options and costs involved as well as what works.

Of course each situation is unique and there is no one answer that is best for all facilities. A few people have hit on route setting, and that is certainly key. The routes in the gym are the product you're selling (or trying to sell) the public and they need to be as good as they can be.

- Louie


Gmburns2000


Sep 11, 2008, 2:55 PM
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Re: [socalbolter] I'm going to buy a gym: advice? [In reply to]
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socalbolter wrote:
Where is this gym located?

Good luck with the purchase. If it goes through, get in touch via email or PM and I'll help however I can. Been involved in a lot of gym renovations and overhauls and I think I have a decent understanding of options and costs involved as well as what works.

Of course each situation is unique and there is no one answer that is best for all facilities. A few people have hit on route setting, and that is certainly key. The routes in the gym are the product you're selling (or trying to sell) the public and they need to be as good as they can be.

- Louie

The gym I attend is in Boston, but I believe you were trying to ask the OP. My guess is California, but that is only a guess.


markc


Sep 11, 2008, 3:02 PM
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Re: [zakadamsgt] I'm going to buy a gym: advice? [In reply to]
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zakadamsgt wrote:
Let me clarify. The gym is a "dirtbag gym". It's minimalist and stripped down. I'm not yet clear on how profitable (if any) the gym is, but my objective would be to increase profitability. I used to climb there, and as a climber, it wasnt that bad. But now, the route-setting sux and the management is kind of a pain in the ass. So first thing to do would be change these two items. But just speculating, to make the gym reasonably profitable, more clientele will have to be brought in.
Order of business: restore to quality climbing gym (for climbers) and then broaden base.

First off, top-posting sucks. If you have to quote, put your comments in line underneath the discussion. I know I'd appreciate it, and imagine others will, as well.

It sounds like you have your priorities straight as far as order of importance. Rather than asking us what we would want, why don't you start with the current members? They're the people you have to keep happy throughout your changes, unless you want to shift your whole customer base.

Do they have any interest in additional equipment? If not, I think it's a waste. Setting up anything that would draw non-climbers away from other gyms would be a huge investment. In comparison, something like a yoga studio seems relatively easy to set up and manage. The overlap between disciplines provides a good opportunity for crossover.

Is the gym tapped into the birthday/kid market in a way that doesn't interfere with the regular customers? Specific kids climbing days or kid hours when the gym isn't normally open is one idea. I've seen people involved with gyms comment on how much of their money comes from rentals after hours, birthday parties, etc. So long as it doesn't disrupt your regular members, it's one way to expand your base.

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