Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Flexible-stem cam failure
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


useless


Sep 16, 2008, 9:10 PM
Post #1 of 14 (1987 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2006
Posts: 4

Flexible-stem cam failure
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

BMC report

Nothing useful to say, just FYI.


roy_hinkley_jr


Sep 16, 2008, 9:16 PM
Post #2 of 14 (1970 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652

Re: [useless] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's a shame we Americans are incapable of producing reports like that. But then gear never fails on this side of the pond so it must be a moot point.


alleyehave


Sep 16, 2008, 10:30 PM
Post #3 of 14 (1919 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2005
Posts: 461

Re: [roy_hinkley_jr] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hrmm.. I could never bring myself to buy a $30(at full price) cam.


budman


Sep 16, 2008, 11:23 PM
Post #4 of 14 (1880 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170

Re: [useless] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Partner once said your cams are too old, their too heavy, buy modern ones with the cable. Just love my rigid stem Friends. Their the lightest, strongest, and the cheapest, at least they were at one time. Every time I place one I never worry about the cable. All the fexible stem cams I own make me wonder every time I place them.


rogue10186


Sep 17, 2008, 2:32 AM
Post #5 of 14 (1837 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 5, 2005
Posts: 937

Re: [alleyehave] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hahaha I laugh at you, I got my forged friends for $25/cam last year, brand new, its amazing what a little searching and waiting for deals can get you.

Forged Friends FTW

They're solid in the rock!


kane_schutzman


Sep 17, 2008, 2:40 AM
Post #6 of 14 (1832 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896

Re: [rogue10186] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I will say that those things, friends in general are solid as hell once they are in. Im trying to think back though and the solid stem has caused some awkward placements for me. Camalots never went out of styleTongue


dingus


Sep 17, 2008, 3:13 AM
Post #7 of 14 (1802 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: [rogue10186] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rogue10186 wrote:
Hahaha I laugh at you, I got my forged friends for $25/cam last year, brand new, its amazing what a little searching and waiting for deals can get you.

Forged Friends FTW

They're solid in the rock!

Best deal in the cam biz - provided they work for you and yourn.

DMT


alleyehave


Sep 17, 2008, 3:49 AM
Post #8 of 14 (1780 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 13, 2005
Posts: 461

Re: [rogue10186] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rogue10186 wrote:
Hahaha I laugh at you, I got my forged friends for $25/cam last year, brand new, its amazing what a little searching and waiting for deals can get you.

Forged Friends FTW

They're solid in the rock!

Thats not full price though, now is it? huh huh

But in all honesty, I haven't had the pleasure of placing a forged friend, I would love to though...I heard theyre great


rogue10186


Sep 17, 2008, 3:57 AM
Post #9 of 14 (1769 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 5, 2005
Posts: 937

Re: [alleyehave] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

They're pretty nice in everything bigger than the 1.5~1.75, at around that or below, I've found the stem is just to thick and can get in the way. At that size I'd want C3's or TCU's, but as I have neither, I'll plug a nut or small hex.


rogue10186


Sep 17, 2008, 4:07 AM
Post #10 of 14 (1758 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 5, 2005
Posts: 937

Re: [rogue10186] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Back to the issue at hand though, anyone have any more details about the failure?

From the description it sounds like it was wipped on multiple times in the same placement, before failure (at least that's the way I understood it) I could be wrong though.

Also, any idea on how old the cam in question is? I don't own any of these cams, but judging by the size and comparing to pics on the RE website it looks like it's around a .75 or a 1


8flood8


Sep 17, 2008, 7:05 AM
Post #11 of 14 (1682 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436

Re: [useless] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

glad i sold/traded all my rock empires away.

black diamond and metolius for the win. (unless i can find some pre-recall green yellow blue...that aren't 70 after the bidding war.)

i swear... there are some bid bumping charlatans out there raising the price every time i'm going to win.

HEAR ME NOW!! I WILL NEVER PAY MORE THAN PRO DEAL PRICE DAMMIT! (that's about 35-45 bucks NO MORE BASTARDS!)


useless


Sep 18, 2008, 8:00 PM
Post #12 of 14 (1545 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2006
Posts: 4

Re: [rogue10186] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
From the description it sounds like it was wipped on multiple times in the same placement, before failure (at least that's the way I understood it) I could be wrong though.
I think they're saying it was fallen on once in that placement, but had taken multiple falls before.

The implication is the cable was fatigued due to repeated flexing, presumably in other placements (it says it was "oriented in line with the expected load", so no bending in the placement that failed).

In reply to:
Also, any idea on how old the cam in question is?
It says 5 years, and appeared to be in good condition.


rogue10186


Sep 19, 2008, 2:36 AM
Post #13 of 14 (1440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 5, 2005
Posts: 937

Re: [useless] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ah, I guess it would've helped if I had read the entire report, not just the summary lol...


evanwish


Sep 19, 2008, 3:55 PM
Post #14 of 14 (1352 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040

Re: [useless] Flexible-stem cam failure [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

oh bummer.. i have that cam!

it's true that you can't see the cable itself and could be a "design flaw" as they say, but can you see the cable on the Black Diamond or Link Cams? Nope...


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook