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adeptus


Sep 17, 2008, 7:08 AM
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sungam


Sep 17, 2008, 8:46 AM
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Re: [adeptus] World Classics [In reply to]
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Almost anything in antartica?
For arguments sake we'll say "there's a moose loose aboot this hoose" on moose rock.
Fitzroy? I guess you have a couple in pati already, but can you get enough?
The Cerro link-up? (ooops, you said do-able Tongue)


adeptus


Sep 17, 2008, 10:15 AM
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adeptus


Sep 17, 2008, 10:17 AM
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dingus


Sep 17, 2008, 10:39 AM
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You need a Baffin contender on your list brother!

DMT


skiclimb


Sep 17, 2008, 10:50 AM
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Hunter Southeast Spur (history and difficulty)

Logan - Hummingbird Ridge

Latok-1 North ridge


dingus


Sep 17, 2008, 10:53 AM
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Re: [skiclimb] World Classics [In reply to]
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skiclimb wrote:
Logan - Hummingbird Ridge

He said no snow slogs. Maybe the Shovel Traverse isn't his cup of tea, quien sabe?

Cheers!
DMT


graniteboy


Sep 18, 2008, 3:41 PM
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Re: [dingus] World Classics [In reply to]
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About Logan's Hummingbird as a "snow slog"..... What he asked for was history, commitment and reputation.

The hummingbird has beat the shit out of and turned back people like Mugs.....and killed people like Cheesmond and Catherine Freer. All of whom were far Manlier alpinists than the girly men frequenting this pseudo alpinist cyber-poofter-fest at RC.com. Snow slog, indeed. Go take a fast afternoon lap on it in your designer PJs if it's such a slog, DMT.

Has it even had a 3rd ascent yet? I remember that Dave (Nettle) did it awhile back...maybe in the early 90s....and damn near starved to death getting down off the thing. Only survived because he found a food and fuel cache from Brad Washburn's 1968 trip. I'd put it on the list of to dos.
It's definitely on mine.

It's long, it's technical, it's at altitude, It's kicked the hell out of alot of damned good Alaskan climbers, and it gets the hell knocked out of it by the Pacific storm cycle. Snow slog my ass.


quiteatingmysteak


Sep 18, 2008, 3:56 PM
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Re: [adeptus] World Classics [In reply to]
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adeptus wrote:
I have recently been thinking about how I choose my alpine routes and realized that the history, reputation and commitment of the route are the most important factors.
I am talking about routes like North Face of the Eiger, Compressor route on Cerro Torre and Cassin Ridge on Denali.
The reason I’m asking this is that most of us (who are not professional) only have time for a certain amount of routes in our career, so I would like to pick out THE alpine classics route list with hard, committing but doable routes (no altitude snow slogs and no extreme free climbs). Apart from the mentioned routes these other routes come to mind:

-Changabang, North Face, British 1997 route
-Fitz Roy, Super Couloir
-Cerro Torre, West Face, Ferrai route
-Cerro Standhart, Exocet
-Mont Blanc, Grand Pilier D’Angel
-Matterhorn, North Face
-Hunter, Moonflower Buttress
-Foraker, Infinite Spur
-Ama Dablam, West Face
-Cholatse, North Face
-Kwangde, North Face
-Nameless Tower, (any route)

What other routes would qualify for this list?
(Please don’t respond if you got nothing serious to contribute)

Denali Diamond
Grand Voyage
Walker Spur
Everest West Ridge
Emperor Face
North Face of Alberta

some of these are pretty epic, but heck, if you say infinite spur counts... :D

Some idears.....


graniteboy


Sep 18, 2008, 4:33 PM
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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] World Classics [In reply to]
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Denali diamond, not. It's basically a death mousetrap waiting to snuff someone with that big frikkin serac face sitting above it.

If we're looking a climb that requires some actual technical skill and not just dumb luck......the fathers and sons face, over in the Peters basin........now that's a fine looking route. It's been done once, to my knowledge. Stevie H.


irregularpanda


Sep 18, 2008, 4:43 PM
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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] World Classics [In reply to]
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This has potential to be a great conversation..... to the OP, what do you define as "too extreme"? This would help me add several.

quiteatingmysteak wrote:
Denali Diamond
Grand Voyage
Walker Spur
Everest West Ridge
Emperor Face
North Face of Alberta

On Mt. Rainier there is the Fuhrer's finger, which is a short and steep attack on the summit. It's easy if you start early enough and can climb 60 degree ice for an entire day, and it would be great training for denali or some of your other uber hard alpine climbs.

Similarly, the complete north ridge of Mt stuart is amazing, and moderate by my definition (1 pitch 5.8, 3 pitches 5.7, and 3 pitches 5.9, and endless 4th class terrain) and it has beautiful exposure and views of two glaciers for much of the climb.

If that's not your thing (moderate rock) Check out the girth pillar on mt stuart. Apparently it only feels like 5.10 if you climb @ index.Laugh

Seriously though, isn't stuart the shittiest name for a mountain? That beast should be called Dizzy Horn.


dingus


Sep 18, 2008, 4:46 PM
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Re: [graniteboy] World Classics [In reply to]
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graniteboy wrote:
About Logan's Hummingbird as a "snow slog"..... What he asked for was history, commitment and reputation.

The hummingbird has beat the shit out of and turned back people like Mugs.....and killed people like Cheesmond and Catherine Freer. All of whom were far Manlier alpinists than the girly men frequenting this pseudo alpinist cyber-poofter-fest at RC.com. Snow slog, indeed. Go take a fast afternoon lap on it in your designer PJs if it's such a slog, DMT.

Oooooo I sense a rant coming on. And I don't like your tone.

No YOU go climg the shovel traverse hoss, report back here when you're done.

I know well enough the history of that ridge - it included a mile of SNOW SHOVELING.

You may now resume your rant.

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 18, 2008, 4:47 PM)


sungam


Sep 18, 2008, 4:54 PM
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dingus wrote:
I know well enough the history of that ridge - it included a mile of SNOW SHOVELING.
Fuuunnnnnn.


graniteboy


Sep 18, 2008, 5:08 PM
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NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism .

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!!


sungam


Sep 18, 2008, 5:14 PM
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graniteboy wrote:
NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism .

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!!
Um....
You, being from the mighty state of whogivesashit, would know so much extra about a route on the other side of the world, yes?
You're acting like a moron just now...


crotch


Sep 18, 2008, 5:34 PM
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sungam


Sep 18, 2008, 5:50 PM
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crotch wrote:
From an area standpoint...
Tower ridge? Laugh


dingus


Sep 18, 2008, 6:05 PM
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graniteboy wrote:
NO, I will now resume laughing my ass of at the concept of someone from TENNESEE claiming to know anything at all about alpinism .

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!!!!!

Hehe. You sure told me.

DMT


adeptus


Sep 19, 2008, 12:10 AM
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irregularpanda


Sep 19, 2008, 1:14 AM
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adeptus wrote:
I live in Denmark, one of the flattest countries on earth.

I'm sorry to hear that. Ever heard of (whispers)the diamond? Tis a rare and elusive gem in North America.


adeptus


Sep 19, 2008, 1:51 AM
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irregularpanda


Sep 19, 2008, 4:58 AM
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longs peak, but its usually spoken of with exaggerated reverence, and in a whisper. Try to picture a secret agent whispering in your ear, telling you the combination to the safe that holds the map to "the diamond"

shh


dingus


Sep 19, 2008, 7:25 AM
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adeptus wrote:
I was actually hoping that it wouldn’t end in this kindergarten shit as it usually does, but anyway…
For the whole you-live-in-the-wrong-place discussion I can add that I live in Denmark,

Cool I can answer you and the 14-year old 'alpinist' with the SprayProfileoftheCentury...

I don't LIVE in Tennessee (duh!). That's where I'm FROM!

Good luck with your list. And steer clear of those snow slogs.

DMT


adeptus


Sep 19, 2008, 8:04 AM
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Valarc


Sep 19, 2008, 8:11 AM
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adeptus wrote:
Are you drunk or just naturally an ass?

If you think THAT was being an ass, you might want to pull your head out of yours. For fuck's sake, you haven't even had your penis size questioned yet.

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