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LUVS2DYNO
Aug 23, 2008, 10:40 PM
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i have been climbing for almost a a year and have pulled my ring finger on my left hand probably 4 times and my right one about 2 times. It happens when i have to use the ring and middle finger in a pocket our if i just dont use my pinky finger when grabbin holds. I was wondering if since i always climb using my pinky, it seems like it takes weight off just my ring finger which may overtime made it not as strong as my other finger which makes it easier to strain/pull. Any ways to fix this or does this just make no sense..?
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sungam
Aug 24, 2008, 1:06 PM
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seeing as you LUV2DYNO I'll just chirp in that missing the dead point on a dyno can load your tendons more then is necessary. Also, make sure you're warmed up completely and stretch before climbing, make sure that ring finger is nice and loose. as soon as you feel it tightening up, you stop climbing (or warm back up if you're cooled off).
I got the same issue with my right ring finger, it just doesn't like being pulled on if not warmed up and stretched.
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granite_grrl
Aug 24, 2008, 2:52 PM
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When it comes to two finger pockets most people use their middle and ring fingers. Also, if you talk to most climbers with finger tendon problems it'll usually be their middle or ring fingers that bother them.
Some routes/problems are more tweaky than others. Pockets can be particularly bad. If you have only been climbing for a year you probobly shouldn't be pushing your self on pockets, your fingers haven't had time to strengthen enough yet.
My suggestion: stop getting on things that might tweak your fingers. Get on some open handed or juggy stuff instead.
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sungam
Aug 24, 2008, 3:37 PM
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didn't catch the year thing. She's right, stay away from moves that isolate the force to less then 3 or 4 fingys. not worth hurting your fingys.
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onceahardman
Aug 24, 2008, 3:42 PM
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I agree with granitegrrl.
The load you are placing on your connective tissue exceeds its tensile strength.
"Pulling" a muscle, tendon, or ligament = STRAIN(/sprain) .
STRAIN=TEAR.
Long term, you are asking for trouble. Chronic pain, arthritis, surgery, and a shortened climbing career.
Focus on footwork. Put less force on the fingers.
Use tape if you must climb pockets. Tape stretches, so remove and re-apply between EVERY burn.
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Valarc
Aug 24, 2008, 3:45 PM
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Six hand injuries in a year? Even a gumby like me can tell you're doing it rong.
Lay off the tweaky stuff for cryin' out loud!
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QSNelson
Sep 18, 2008, 4:20 PM
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I'm glad i caught this thread, i actually just came back from the doctor and was diagnosed with slight tear and tendonitis in my ring finger. The culprit? Two finger under-hand pocket move to a redpoint! I wish i had only seen this thread sooner If everyone says newer people should stay away from pockets it makes me wonder about the route setting at my gym seeing as how I can think of 4 routes v4 and under that have several two finger pocket moves in them, two to rather dynamic movements. How long should one wait before starting to tackle pocket problems safely?
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LUVS2DYNO
Sep 19, 2008, 9:43 PM
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Thanks a bunch.. I try to keep away from those and work on technique more
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onceahardman
Sep 19, 2008, 10:19 PM
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In reply to: How long should one wait before starting to tackle pocket problems safely?
I know this sounds like a flippant, wise-ass answer...but the answer really is-long enough to strengthen the finger tendons enough so that they don't tear when you crank on them!
Progressive loading is the key. Don't warm up on overhanging pockets. Use more pinches and slopers, open-grip stuff. Climb off-vertical, slabby stuff in your pocket climbing for now. I know-that is hard to find at most gyms.
There really isn't a textbook answer that will guarantee you will never tear a pulley, other than not climbing fingery routes. Try climbing outside more.
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kennoyce
Sep 19, 2008, 11:27 PM
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agreed. when I first started climbing hard I had several problems with my middle fingers. I just had to stop climbing thing with small pockets for a few months for my fingers to heal, and then I took it really easy on pockets for a while, but I slowly worked up, and now I don't have any problems on them. I'd say just stay off of hard pockets for 6 months or so since you have had 6 injuries, and then just slowly (over another year or so) start getting on moderate pockets and hope that there isn't any major damage. good luck
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