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QSNelson
Sep 22, 2008, 3:48 AM
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Hey guys, trying to decide on a decent all around shoe, sport/bouldering. I was originally going to get a pair of Mocs but Ive been told by many that the technos are a great pair of shoes as well and I cant decide which to go with. I like the feel of the Mocs and I know that they are a time proven shoe for everything from 5.14's to V14s but then I also tried on the Technos and loved the feeling of security of the lace ups, i especially like how secure I feel with throwing a heel hook in the Technos with the around ankle support even if there is less rubber back there. What are your guys opinions? My biggest is getting the Mocs and having them fit either way to tight or getting them too big and having them pop off or spin on my feet, As far as I can see the Technos should be sized down by about 1/2 a size and the Mocs up to 2 sizes down. Thoughts?
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8flood8
Sep 22, 2008, 4:29 AM
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i wasn't too pleased with the scarpa sized for comfort.
i also don't like slip-ons because they slip-off.
My experience with the scarpa is that they would be an "o.k." shoe sized for performance.
that being said... get some evolv lace-ups and fit them for comfort or performance, depending on how you like to wear your shoes. they won't stretch on you.
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hafilax
Sep 22, 2008, 6:09 AM
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Wow, those shoes are on entirely opposite ends of the shoe spectrum. The Technos are stiff crack shoe and the Mocc's are a soft sensitive slipper and I don't think either of them would make a great all around shoe. An all around sport/bouldering shoe would be something like the Anasazi velcro.
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QSNelson
Sep 22, 2008, 8:08 AM
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I guess I can see the argument on the techno's but I know I have seen the Mocs being used on every kind of climbing I dont see why the wouldnt be a good all around shoe.
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sungam
Sep 22, 2008, 10:15 AM
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Go with the Anasazi. All 3 Ascents of Rhapsody were done in either pinkies or whiteys...
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hafilax
Sep 22, 2008, 8:24 PM
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Rhapsody's not much of a sport route but I guess it could almost be considered a highball.
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sungam
Sep 22, 2008, 8:29 PM
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hafilax wrote: Rhapsody's not much of a sport route but I guess it could almost be considered a highball.
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retro
Sep 22, 2008, 10:13 PM
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These are very different shoes. I own both and have been very happy with the Technos as a trad shoe, long multi-pitch routes...very nice edging capabilities and are comfortable whe stuffed into cracks. Despite being stiffer than most, I still find them to be a relatively sensitive shoe and find myself grabbing for them more often than not.
That being said, I think that the Mocs would be the way to go if you are looking for a sport shoe that has the ability to crank on bouldering problems. They are super sensitive, very sticky but don't heel or toe hook particularly well IMO. Can't go wrong with the Mocs for the type of climbing that you described above.
FWIW...just bought a pair of Scarpa Vision V's and they totally kick ass!!!! Check them out. I found them for $70 online...same last as the Vision, but with the hook and loop tabs (aka Velcro!!!) 
Just in case you were interested...
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kennoyce
Sep 22, 2008, 10:19 PM
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I love my mocs for just about everything, The complaint I have about them is that even sized 2 sizes down, they have stretched to the point that they don't heal hook well, and when it gets hot, my feet will start to slide around in them, I've never used the Techno's so no input there, but I also have to say the anasazi velcros are the best all around shoe for what you described.
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QSNelson
Sep 23, 2008, 4:01 AM
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Interesting whats the sizing like on the Vison's?
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retro
Sep 23, 2008, 10:19 AM
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I went much smaller. I have a 43.5 in the Technos, and went a full size down (42.5) with the visions and that seems to be just about right. I probably could have gotten away with the 42's, but we will see how much these actually stretch. They have relaxed some and I have really only bouldered in them twice as they just arrived last week. They are more aggressive than the Mocs, toe down, adjustable like the velcro anasazis, and hook really nicely. They have rubber mesh over the toe like the Vipers I believe??? Good for toe hooking as well.
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lithiummetalman
Sep 23, 2008, 4:22 PM
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I have my mocs sized a 1 size down from actual foot size, this actually works out quite well, as the shoe conforms / stretches more like a sock around my foot. Once broken in they are absolutely comfortable, and perform wonderfully. (Heel hooks are ok)
This has worked out wonderfully as an awesome all-around shoe for trad (works well on long day routes as well!), sport, & bouldering.
The Technos are beautifully made shoes, but found them way to stiff (hard to feel the rock or crack), and too complicated (too many dangling things).
Would say go for the shoe that fits the best and most comfortably on your foot. Happy feet = Happy climbing!
Cheers
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AlexCV
Sep 23, 2008, 4:32 PM
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Not 5.10s but similar, I've had a number of slippers (LaSpo Viper) and I sized them one full size larger then velcro/lac-up shoes. There's something about the way slippers conform to the foot. I can climb well in size 40.5 or 41 Viper but I need 39 or 39.5 in either Anasazi VCS or Miura.
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mountainwonk
Sep 23, 2008, 9:07 PM
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Can't speak about the Technos, but Mocs have worked well for me as a comfortable, all-day shoe for mellow routes and bouldering. If I'm climbing powerful stuff, though, I prefer a more aggressive shoe. Scarpa's Booster fills this niche in an amazing way...changing from the Moc to the Booster has often been the difference in sending when climbing at or near my limit.
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dj69
Sep 25, 2008, 8:25 PM
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I own a pair of techno's that i bought specifically for long routes or crack climbs. I wouldn't even consider using them for sport climbing. I think you'd be better off with the mocs for sport/ bouldering. But maybe thats just because i prefer a softer shoe.
Personally i use the katanas as my all around shoe and have yet to find a shoe i would prefer,
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