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open-hand, slopers with 3 fingers VS 4 fingers
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camilleguignard


Oct 12, 2008, 7:06 AM
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open-hand, slopers with 3 fingers VS 4 fingers
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-why do I feel better holding slopers or open hand holds without the small finger, example on the same hold by using 3 fingers it feels ok but as soon as i use the little one it is weaker. seems like using the small finger change the shape of my arm on the holds. although there is more skin in contact i it weaker so I don't really understand

-should i try using the little finger and getting good at it, or should i leave it "aside"


jakedatc


Oct 12, 2008, 12:08 PM
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Re: [camilleguignard] open-hand, slopers with 3 fingers VS 4 fingers [In reply to]
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Do whatever feels best for that hold. Some might be better with less.. some with more. i wouldn't worry about it too much.


milesenoell


Oct 12, 2008, 2:12 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] open-hand, slopers with 3 fingers VS 4 fingers [In reply to]
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Just a random bit of info: Some folks have index fingers that are about the same length as their ring finger and some (like me) have an index finger that is midway between ring and pinky length. I'd guess that finger length may be a factor.


borntorocku


Oct 13, 2008, 8:58 AM
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Re: [milesenoell] open-hand, slopers with 3 fingers VS 4 fingers [In reply to]
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This might be of interest to you : http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/4314209.stm


camilleguignard


Oct 14, 2008, 1:06 PM
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Re: [camilleguignard] open-hand, slopers with 3 fingers VS 4 fingers [In reply to]
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thanks


boracus


Oct 14, 2008, 1:45 PM
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Re: [camilleguignard] open-hand, slopers with 3 fingers VS 4 fingers [In reply to]
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C-
I have a similar issue. If the hold is an honest to god humangous sloper that I can get my whole hand on it doesn't matter. However, if the hold is say a flat crimp or a shallow pinch a lot of times it's easier to simply leave the last finger off the hold.
My pinky finger is about an inch shorter than both my index and ring fingers so when I make an effort to keep the pinky on a hold I have to flex my first three fingers just a little to get the pinky involved...this in turn actually decreases the amount of surface area/skin contact that I have on the hold. Also w/ the fingers slightly in flexion you loose the ability to put the flexor tendons in a state of complete tension which requires your flexor muscles to work harder and does in fact make holding on w/ all four fingers more strenuous than using just the first three.
I'd say that if you're climbing on a variety of holds, don't worry about going out of your way to use the pinky, it will get used on bigger holds and pinches.
cheers, BA


(This post was edited by boracus on Oct 14, 2008, 1:46 PM)


camilleguignard


Oct 15, 2008, 3:18 AM
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Re: [boracus] open-hand, slopers with 3 fingers VS 4 fingers [In reply to]
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cool, thanks. that give me a confirmation of what i had thought and felt.


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