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pre-clipping gear to the rope?
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tedman


Oct 10, 2008, 2:00 PM
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pre-clipping gear to the rope?
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So for a placement where you know what the gear is going to be, and want/need to make the placement as quickly as possible (say a hard crack at indian creek), is there any good reason not to have the rope preclipped into it? In case this is confusing, cam on its own beaner clipped into your harness, sling clipped into same beaner. other end of sling has another beaner already clipped to the rope. You get to the stance, unclip the cam from your harness, plug it in and go, its already clipped into the rope via the sling. Another potential benefit is if you manage to drop the cam, its on the rope, so it will either rocket down to your belayers crotchLaugh or get hung up at the last piece of pro. better than a 3 pitch freefall tho.

the only con I see is that it could get messy if the sling gets caught up on other gear/the wall. plus if there is too much rope drag and the sling isnt long enough, placing gear above your head is going to be an issue.

I'm sure I'm not the first one to think of this, but I just havnt ever seen it in practice and theres probly a good reason why, just cant come up with it. ideas? wisdom?


styndall


Oct 10, 2008, 2:07 PM
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Re: [tedman] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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Clipping your gear to the rope would just offer more opportunities for getting things tangled, and, unless you're placing your piece at your waist or below, will make the act of placing it much harder. Slotting a cam that weighs an extra couple of pounds because of all the dangling rope would be a pain.


sspssp


Oct 10, 2008, 2:19 PM
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Re: [tedman] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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If you had one piece set up like that for a really desperate clip, it might make sense. You would definitely have to clip low (but it is easier to place/clip low for desperate gear anyway).

However, I don't think I would want to do it for more than a single piece (too much chance of tangles). For most of the Creek climbs, one placement isn't going to be any more desperate than the next one (there are some exceptions).


(This post was edited by sspssp on Oct 10, 2008, 2:20 PM)


hafilax


Oct 10, 2008, 2:34 PM
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Re: [sspssp] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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Might work if the placement is at around waist level or higher if it's extended. Might be hard to switch from unclipping the piece from the harness to holding the trigger to place it.

Beth Rodden use duct tape for break away placements on Meltdown. That way the piece could be grabbed in the right orientation, slotted and clipped as fast as possible.
http://www.climbing.com/...n_cracks_a_meltdown/


jakedatc


Oct 10, 2008, 4:54 PM
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Re: [hafilax] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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a guy did pieces velcro'd to his harness or something for one route in Inertia 1 or 2.. doesn't makes much sense for normal routes though


Partner climbinginchico


Oct 10, 2008, 5:35 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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so did didier in first ascent on cobra crack


duncanlennon


Oct 10, 2008, 5:45 PM
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Re: [hafilax] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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Right, it would only work well if you were placing that piece right away. Imagine having to climb the whole route, reaching below the dangling biner to clip other pieces. Likewise, racking multiple pieces like this probably wouldn't work.


thatguyat99


Oct 10, 2008, 5:45 PM
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Re: [climbinginchico] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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Seems like it would make things pretty bunched up where you are tied in. If you had to pull a roof or a mantel the slings could pull across your thigh restricting movement of your leg.

Plus, as said before, it would be difficult for placements above the head.


sungam


Oct 10, 2008, 6:16 PM
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Re: [tedman] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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I'd rather not be dealing with the weight of the rope/rope drag/etc. when fiddling in a nut or cam, know what I mean?


bradley3297


Oct 10, 2008, 6:24 PM
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Re: [climbinginchico] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER


sungam


Oct 10, 2008, 6:36 PM
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Re: [bradley3297] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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huh. I guess Jay was right.


Partner angry


Oct 10, 2008, 6:38 PM
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Re: [bradley3297] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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I'm pretty sure he meant, In the movie "First Ascent"....

BTW, where has Didier been lately?


hafilax


Oct 10, 2008, 6:51 PM
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Re: [angry] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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Someone asked that on the Gripped forum recently.


alleyehave


Oct 11, 2008, 12:01 PM
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Re: [bradley3297] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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bradley3297 wrote:
TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER

What are you a cheerleader? Ghey.


currupt4130


Oct 14, 2008, 6:53 AM
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Re: [bradley3297] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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bradley3297 wrote:
TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER

Cool, Trotter worked the whole thing TR before he sent it. Diddier was working ground up. Yea he sent it first, but really, it wasn't a pure first ascent.


rockforlife


Oct 14, 2008, 7:41 AM
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Re: [currupt4130] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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currupt4130 wrote:
bradley3297 wrote:
TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER

Cool, Trotter worked the whole thing TR before he sent it. Diddier was working ground up. Yea he sent it first, but really, it wasn't a pure first ascent.

Yes /\
l
l


reg


Oct 14, 2008, 7:50 AM
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Re: [tedman] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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i did it once on a desperate sport clip that i knew i was going to fall on. i figured i would get one shot at the hanger so i set up the draw on the rope then reached as far as i could then lunged. made the clip and fell. hummm......wonder if i hadn't set my mind to failure, maybe i could have made the moves. don't think there's much value with gear though.


chossmonkey


Oct 14, 2008, 5:39 PM
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Re: [tedman] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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It wouldn't work as well as you think.


crazy_fingers84


Oct 14, 2008, 6:37 PM
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Re: [angry] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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i heard he fathered an illegitimate child north of the border and is hiding out in a monastery in europe. . .


bender


Oct 14, 2008, 7:00 PM
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Re: [tedman] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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tedman wrote:

the only con I see is that it could get messy if the sling gets caught up on other gear/the wall.


first off this tactic only comes into value when you know precisely what gear your going to be placing in certain places

the other con is that most of the time your setting gear over your chests height so you will actually be pulling up rope through the running belay your preclipped gear represents

this is alot of tension under the best circumstance and will have a negative consequence on your ability to accurately slot the gear because of so much more weight on your placing hand that is usual

most of the time you will save energy placing your gear free of rope weight then clipping in

the times this isnt the case are few, and are mostly situations where your going to plug gear in at waste level off your clipping hold

only a tactic for routes worked at your bleeding limit


sungam


Oct 15, 2008, 6:47 AM
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Re: [bender] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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I can think of one time I've seen this done on an onsight.
Some chick was doing Lord Of The Flies (drooool) and saw a spike she could sling that was too low to reach (after the traverse) so she lipped a sling to the rope and put it on with her foot.
In pretty much all other applications I'd say that the added drag from the rope would suck too much.


fresh


Oct 15, 2008, 7:46 AM
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speaking of first ascent, I think matt segal did this with a couple nuts in the FA of Iron Monkey, which is in the DVD extras. I can see it working when you've worked the placements to death. I for one don't climb anywhere near hard enough to be any real benefit.


hyhuu


Oct 27, 2008, 4:27 PM
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Re: [fresh] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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Have you ever tried it? Unless gear is being placed at waist level, it's not as efficient as you think. The weight of the rope of both side of the biner and the friction make it hard to reach up.


patto


Oct 27, 2008, 5:19 PM
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I've done this before. Use a 2 foot sling and the weight of the rope isn't a problem.

Its not a stylish way of doing things but If you know what your doing then it can make things less scary.


coolcat83


Oct 27, 2008, 5:45 PM
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Re: [rockforlife] pre-clipping gear to the rope? [In reply to]
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rockforlife wrote:
currupt4130 wrote:
bradley3297 wrote:
TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER

Cool, Trotter worked the whole thing TR before he sent it. Diddier was working ground up. Yea he sent it first, but really, it wasn't a pure first ascent.

Yes /\
l
l


agreed. and i have wondered where he went after recovering in that monastery, unless he decided to stay and become a man of the cloth?

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