Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
Leader fall on a slab
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


klopik


Oct 13, 2008, 12:35 PM
Post #1 of 44 (5698 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2006
Posts: 119

Leader fall on a slab
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Is there a good way to fall on a slab to avoid the sand paper effect?
Every time I fall on a slab, anything more then 2' fall basically ends the climbing day, as my hands are completely scraped raw.
Any advice?


jmeizis


Oct 13, 2008, 12:50 PM
Post #2 of 44 (5679 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My number one advice is don't fall. Really there isn't much avoiding the sandpaper effect. I just try to run my hands down the wall really fast. Doesn't do much. Just go spread eagle and hope for the best.


Partner epoch
Moderator

Oct 13, 2008, 2:13 PM
Post #3 of 44 (5619 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 32163

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Learn how to fall.

If you can, push your torso away from the rock so that you are perpendicular to the face it would help with the scraped hand thing. Also, your hands are getting scraped up maybe your ass isn't far enough away from the rock. Slab climbing is mostly about balance over the feet, and if you are using proper technique it is mostly foot work.


(This post was edited by epoch on Oct 13, 2008, 2:14 PM)


kennoyce


Oct 13, 2008, 2:49 PM
Post #4 of 44 (5573 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338

Re: [epoch] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

agreed, It sounds like you are leaning too far forward and because of this your feet are skating out behind you, so it sounds like if you worked on your technique you might not be falling as much, but to answer your question, when I fall on slab I try running backward for as far as I can, which of course only works for maybe 5 feet or a little more, so if my feet are above the last bolt, I just try my hardest not to fall. slab falls aren't fun.


hafilax


Oct 13, 2008, 2:53 PM
Post #5 of 44 (5564 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [kennoyce] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Work on your backward sprinting. The moment you lose friction start backpedaling.

I heard of a nasty long slab fall where the guy started tumbling and the rope wrapped around his neck. He just managed to get his head free when the rope came under tension. Shocked


Partner epoch
Moderator

Oct 13, 2008, 2:59 PM
Post #6 of 44 (5548 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 32163

Re: [hafilax] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've taken a few long - 30 foot - slab falls. The real trick is to pick a hip that you don't want and slide on your side. Long pants and long sleeve t-shirts are your friend in the pushing-the-slab-grade arena. There are allot of techniques to use when falling on slab, everything from pushing away from the rock, to hip-sliding, to running, to surfing. IT all is dependent on just how you fall. But then again it was already nailed above with the DON'T FALL mantra. Slabs are one of the most feared disciplines of climbing, right next to offwidths. Both of which I actually don't mind.


antiqued


Oct 17, 2008, 11:39 AM
Post #7 of 44 (5380 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 18, 2005
Posts: 243

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I once managed to go ~25ft on my toes, in near perfect balance, with the accompanying smell of burnt rubber. Haven't needed to repeat the performance, luckily. If the rock is smooth and you are climbing "in balance", then very little force on your hands should be needed.

Short falls are best run backward.

Saw one guy turn and run facing downslope. Didn't seem to turn out well, when the rope caught he slammed down onto his ribs - no serious hurt, but a pretty good whoof!

As epoch suggested, if the toe slide seems to be going, turn onto hip or butt and get the feet up a little - the last option is tumbling.


taydude


Oct 17, 2008, 11:46 AM
Post #8 of 44 (5366 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 25, 2006
Posts: 531

Re: [antiqued] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Has anyone ever taken a HUGE fall on slab? One of my friends wanted to do a multipitch trad route that the guide book said was run out for 50ft in places. I think I'll turn down the offer Pirate


flint


Oct 17, 2008, 12:04 PM
Post #9 of 44 (5345 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 20, 2007
Posts: 543

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

klopik wrote:
Is there a good way to fall on a slab to avoid the sand paper effect?
Every time I fall on a slab, anything more then 2' fall basically ends the climbing day, as my hands are completely scraped raw.
Any advice?

I watched a guy try and sprint backwards... he caught his heel on something and ended up rocketing the back of his head into the rock before the rope caught him. Slab is one of the few types of climbs were I wear a helmet with pride.

j-


budman


Oct 17, 2008, 12:25 PM
Post #10 of 44 (5310 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A lot of good suggestions. One- don't fall. Two-technique, weight over the feet. Three- protect you head. Slab falls are often associated with bad head injuries. Witnessed this at Whitehorse many years ago. 50 footer and really bad results. I'm not a good slab climber but am drawn to be better at it. Practiced falling on slabs in the Meadows one year. Running to the side slightly, not straight down will produce an arc during the fall. That will soften the blow a bit. It's a bit strange running down the slab at first but it does work. Be careful and have fun.


flipnfall


Oct 17, 2008, 12:28 PM
Post #11 of 44 (5305 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 717

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I just learned to yell "ouch, ouch, ouch, ouch, ouch, ouch, ouch..." as I'm falling. But seriously, fall facing the rock, don't use the "sliding into first base" on the side of your body technique. A friend of mine did that and broke his hip at the age of 20. We gave him plenty of old man jokes, but it wasn't a fun recovery for him. The amount of injury you receive will always depend on the roughness of the rock, protrusions and the manner in which you control your fall. It's hard to control the first two unless you're really picky about where you climb.

GT


flipnfall


Oct 17, 2008, 12:31 PM
Post #12 of 44 (5298 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 18, 2004
Posts: 717

Re: [antiqued] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

antiqued wrote:
I
Short falls are best run backward.

I've actually witnessed this. The guy falling belly flopped at the end because the stop made his feet pop off and he did a short swing into the rock on this chest.

GT


sungam


Oct 17, 2008, 6:31 PM
Post #13 of 44 (5228 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26800

Re: [taydude] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

taydude wrote:
Has anyone ever taken a HUGE fall on slab? One of my friends wanted to do a multipitch trad route that the guide book said was run out for 50ft in places. I think I'll turn down the offer Pirate
My foot slipped when I was 100 feet out once. I whimpered but stuck the move. 3 feet later I got a good piece in.
That night my belayer sent me an email telling of someone who had fallen from that very move...
The first ~85 went on his front. he lost the skin on his knees, one side, and both hands+fore arms. then he went over the overlap. He was left with no ass to speak of.
Goddam am I glad I stuck that move.


sspssp


Oct 17, 2008, 8:35 PM
Post #14 of 44 (5167 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731

Re: [sungam] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've climbed a lot of slabs and slid on a few. You can attempt the "turn and run" or slide on the hip, etc. When it works, it is better. When it goes astray, it is often worse.

I stay in the same basic position as climbing a slab. keep the weight on the feet, try to keep from tumbling. Wear long pants. I've worn knee pads before. I have though about trying to wrap a piece of leather around my forearm so that I could slide on [leather wrapped] forearm instead of palms, but never actually tried it. I do tend to wear long sleeves and if the sleeve can reach up over the palm that may help to do the same thing.

My longest slide I wore a hole through the rubber in my shoe where the ball of the foot is. I took the shoe off and could stick a finger through it. My palms were raw, but not the bloody mess that I have heard of from other climbers.


(This post was edited by sspssp on Oct 17, 2008, 8:36 PM)


curt


Oct 17, 2008, 9:01 PM
Post #15 of 44 (5147 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18273

Re: [taydude] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

taydude wrote:
Has anyone ever taken a HUGE fall on slab? One of my friends wanted to do a multipitch trad route that the guide book said was run out for 50ft in places. I think I'll turn down the offer Pirate

I've led a few routes in Yosemite with 50 foot run-outs on 5.10 and 5.11 terrain--and believe me, you just don't want to fall. You simply have to consider falling to not be an option, almost like free soloing.

Curt


salamanizer


Oct 17, 2008, 10:14 PM
Post #16 of 44 (5107 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 879

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Gee, it's a long way down to my last piece..

.........best to just not fall!




gunkiemike


Oct 18, 2008, 9:04 AM
Post #17 of 44 (5040 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266

Re: [taydude] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

taydude wrote:
Has anyone ever taken a HUGE fall on slab? One of my friends wanted to do a multipitch trad route that the guide book said was run out for 50ft in places. I think I'll turn down the offer Pirate

Slabs in the NE rarely have crux moves too far out from gear, so you ought to get out there (if friction climbing appeals to you at all). In no time you'll be beating your chest and saying 50' runouts are not that big. Last route I did went 160' with no gear. But it was easy-ish terrain. (beats chest)


sungam


Oct 18, 2008, 11:10 AM
Post #18 of 44 (5004 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26800

Re: [gunkiemike] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Let's go climbing when I get there (NC)


evanwish


Oct 22, 2008, 9:41 PM
Post #19 of 44 (4824 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 22, 2007
Posts: 1040

Re: [epoch] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

epoch wrote:
I've taken a few long - 30 foot - slab falls. The real trick is to pick a hip that you don't want and slide on your side. Long pants and long sleeve t-shirts are your friend in the pushing-the-slab-grade arena.

second on that. When i took my 60' slab fall i fell from a vertical section onto the slab which broke my left ankle, so i slid the rest of the way on my right side.. i was wearing jeans and a fleace, both were torn up but i did not have one scratch on my body other than the broken ankle.


Bats


Oct 28, 2008, 5:17 PM
Post #20 of 44 (4665 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 26, 2007
Posts: 485

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Scraped knees and palms within the first 5 ft when I first learned how to climbed slab. After that...monkey crawl or like the others were saying weight over feet. I learned the DON'T FALL mantra.

I have yet to climb a slab that I have fall on other than that first.


wyoclimb


Oct 29, 2008, 5:24 PM
Post #21 of 44 (4567 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 11, 2007
Posts: 115

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

drop your heelsCool


ja1484


Oct 29, 2008, 5:43 PM
Post #22 of 44 (4539 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 10, 2006
Posts: 1935

Re: [sungam] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
Let's go climbing when I get there (NC)


Got you covered. We have the best friction slabbing in the US, and anyone who says otherwise is a fucking liar.

40 feet between protection is well protected. Run outs start when there's no pro between belays. R/X ratings start when some of the belays are firm stances with no anchors.


sungam


Oct 29, 2008, 10:17 PM
Post #23 of 44 (4446 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26800

Re: [ja1484] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

...
okay.


lodi5onu


Oct 30, 2008, 5:59 AM
Post #24 of 44 (4412 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 335

Re: [klopik] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Bain de Sang http://www.lasportiva.com/...zioni/BainDeSang.htm
translates as "bloodbath" for good reason


duncanlennon


Oct 30, 2008, 6:38 AM
Post #25 of 44 (4377 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 6, 2006
Posts: 109

Re: [evanwish] Leader fall on a slab [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

gotta wear those Carhartt work pants with reinforced ass and knees. My confidence on slabs has gone way up since I stopped being able to feel falls through the pants- and lift my feet above knee level.


(This post was edited by duncanlennon on Oct 30, 2008, 6:39 AM)

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook