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QSNelson
Oct 18, 2008, 12:15 PM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2008
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A pretty simple question I can't seem to find a straight forward answer too when i use the search. I climb on average three days a week(Tuesday, Thursday,Sunday) and I'm trying to incorporate a hangboard routine into my workout. I know how important rest days are, my question is how or when should I implement my hangboard workout? I'm worried that if I do it on an off day i'll be over training, if i do it at the end of my regular workout I'll be too tired and wont get the max benefit from it. Should I do it in loo of one of my climbing days? When do you guys usually do yours?
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mccarthykm
Oct 18, 2008, 1:00 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2004
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I use my hangboard and rock rings as a supplement to climbing in between climbing days, some of you call them rest days. I also typically stick to the medium and large edges and use it more for the pull ups rather than thrash my fingers. The fingers do just fine on climbing days.
On hangboard days I typically go for a run then do a mix of pull ups (60+), push ups (60+) and free weights.
But don't just jump into this. I steadily worked up to it over a year. My philosophy is that the more time I can spend hauling my body around the better overall physical condition I'll be in.
It takes time... be patient or you'll get injured.
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Bagelo
Oct 18, 2008, 2:53 PM
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Registered: Aug 21, 2008
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Hey there Nelson. I too follow the same climbing schedule of T,TH,S. I'm not sure what type of hang board you own but I use the Metolius Simulator on the days in between. I would definitely say this routine is the way to go (at least for me) in terms of improving your endurance/strength. Using the ten minute work out found here http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/...-simulator-train.htm, I've seen a very noticeable improvement in my finger strength.
When I first got it I thought it was a bit too pricey (even with my 15% off) but now I think it was worth every penny and more. I sincerely doubt that you'll be over training with just 10 minutes a day on your off days. I'd stick to your current schedule. Take care!
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QSNelson
Oct 19, 2008, 6:06 AM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2008
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ya the board I have is the simulator, I saw the ten minute work out on the metolius website and thought it looked pretty good, Ill try doing the workout 2 times a week on my off days on Wednesday and Friday and see how it feel.
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jeremyash
Oct 19, 2008, 8:20 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2007
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Thanks for the info guys. I'll be adding this to my training schedule next week, in addition to some much needed running! Good times.
-Jeremy
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rockprodigy
Oct 25, 2008, 2:57 AM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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This is highly age dependent (old guys need more rest), but....
Your body gets weaker when you train, and stronger when you rest, after triggering compensation with training. The point of a hangboard is to train power...typically you need to be pretty "fresh" to train power. If you're not fresh, your muscles will not attain the levels of intensity necessary to trigger the right compensation. That said, either:
a) you will not be fresh enough to get any training benefit a mere 24 hours after climbing
b) If you are fresh, then your climbing the day before is not very intense...this is OK if your goal for the climbing day is to work technique, but if you intend it as a "workout", then it is not intense enough.
Either way, in my opinion, you shouldn't be sandwiching hangboard workouts between climbing days.
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