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Darkforrest
Oct 18, 2008, 6:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 28, 2007
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We will be in bend for a couple days this week for work. We are going to try and get some climbing in. We will probably only have time to one or 2 routes hopefully with short approach time.
Can anyone suggest 2 or 3 close to each other sport routes or a no more then 3 pitch multipitch route in the 5.8 or 5.9 range.
thanks Ken
edit: Multipitch would have to be sport as well
(This post was edited by Darkforrest on Oct 18, 2008, 6:43 PM)
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nkane
Oct 18, 2008, 7:04 PM
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Probably the Morning Glory wall - There's a line of like 5 classic sport climbs from 8s to 10s.
8 gallon buckets is a classic 5.8 jug haul, and Gumby is a crimpy ass 10b where i almost broke my ankle blowing the first clip.
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spoon
Oct 18, 2008, 7:32 PM
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The Morning Glory Wall definitely has a good assortmant of fun routes in your range, but the approach isn't actually super short. You can see it from the parking lot but it can still take 20 minutes to walk all the way down the hill and over to the wall, and there may well be a line for the popular moderates. Just some things to consider.
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Darkforrest
Oct 20, 2008, 7:30 PM
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I don't see any directions. This is my first trip to smith I could use some good ones as time is an issue.
How busy should this area be on Wednesday?
I would really like a multipitch if there is one at our level.
thanks again
Ken
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scottb
Oct 20, 2008, 7:57 PM
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Morning glory wall is the big cliff right by the outhouse. Probably where all the people are too.
5-gallon buckets will be obvious. It's the line of huecos on the far left side of that section of the cliff. The routes to the right go at 5.9, 5.10a, and 5.10b.
If MG is crowded, consider West Ship, River face. Very short approach. Routes go (R to L) 5.7, 5.9, and 5.10a. All fun.
Another option is the Bunny Face area left of Chain Reaction (google it, very distinct looking). A little bit longer walk. A handful of quality sport climbs 5.7 to 5.10a. Bunny Face is a two-pitch climb if you wish to do it that way.
Another good option for an easy bolted multipitch is Ginger Snap to Cry Baby. Fun and exposed.
Right now is prime time at Smith. Lots of folks around. You will be able to shake down someone with a guide book to help point out the routes.
For more beta check out the route DB here, mountainproject.com and I think there's some stuff on Dr. Topo.
Have fun.
(This post was edited by scottb on Oct 20, 2008, 8:18 PM)
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Darkforrest
Oct 22, 2008, 11:26 PM
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thank you for the info but it was busy. Bunny face which is what we decided to try for had a line of 7 on it. Morning glory wall had a ton of people too. We ended up climbing Lichen It and making plans to come back and spend more time.
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