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climbingcowboy
Nov 7, 2002, 4:04 PM
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Whats a good first aid route to do in Yos with someone thats has experiance, i'm a newbie aid climber but lovin it and was curious what your guys recommendations are?
Thanks Geoff
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kindredlion
Nov 7, 2002, 4:26 PM
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As I don't have mich time to reply...
What type of route are you looking for?
Do you want something short and craggy?
Do you want a three day epic potential?
There are hundreds if not thousands of ways to make it up the world class Yosemite granite. Let us get a better idea of what size bite you feel like chewing.
Otherwise, consider purchasing the Road To the Nose by Cris Mac.
Take Air,
Adam
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climbingcowboy
Nov 7, 2002, 4:34 PM
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two- three day
i've never been on a big wall and have done alot of practise aid climbing exepct hauling need to work on that, everything i've done is basically C1 ,cams, stoppers and a few bomber hook placments here and there.
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dsafanda
Nov 7, 2002, 5:07 PM
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The most popular first wall in Yosemite is the South Face of Washington's Column. It is also very crowded because of this. The Leaning Tower is a step up in difficulty with a bit of C2 but it is also a popular first wall for many. Definitely pick up a copy of "Road to the Nose"
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/road2nose.html
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dsafanda
Nov 7, 2002, 5:09 PM
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You might also consider road tripping to Zion for your first wall. I feel like Zion has a larger selection of shorter C1 and C2 walls that are great for honing your technique.
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spiffdog
Nov 7, 2002, 6:45 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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F that. Don't do one of the "me too" walls, put your sack on the line. My first wall was A3, and my partner had no experience at that level of difficulty either. If you have the benefit of an experienced partner, then go hard. At the very least, do an easier grade V in a day. It'll save you the hauling, and makes for a better story.
Spiff
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spiffdog
Nov 7, 2002, 9:36 PM
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Wet Denim was my first wall. I wouldn't give pitch 5 to your partner, although the free climbing really sucks. It's 5.7X. The head ramp is really quite fun, especially if you get to place some heads on lead. The pitch you don't want to lead is 7. My partner led it, but said it was the most awkward, thuggish lead he had ever done. It's only C2, but he spent 4 hours on it. That included getting off route by 12 moves because we did that portion by headlamp. The pitch you should lead at all costs is the roof pitch (#10). Fifteen foot dead horizontal splitter, with nothing between you and the ground except a thousand feet of air. Dangling at the lip is truly awe inspiring. Pic linked below
Spiff
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=7532
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climbingcowboy
Nov 8, 2002, 1:55 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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thanks for the info, anybody else?
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justsendingits
Nov 10, 2002, 11:32 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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Ten days after is a good one I think Cowboy,although I have not done it yet (done SF).,Not as popular as SF. or WDD.I think aloso the traverse on TDA. keeps climbers off of it cause most climbers on these routes are new, and are already pushing their limits.
Check some of PTPP threads and posts,print them out,animated drawings,paste and edit the post's,using the most important info to take to the crag with u.However,I sugest you read the whole post as they are funny and enjoyable to read.Also,if u have time at work,take a couple of biners and a couple peices of rope,learning how to tie those knots (the munter mule,butterfly) and cleaning,hauling on the wall is not the place to be trying to figure it out.Do lower outs,clean traverse's(use the better way with a gri,gri so u can adjust)practice with cam hooks.
Although u can't learn it all from a book,at least having an idea of what u want to do will help.There are a number of grade six's in the valley that are as easy as the climbs listed above,they are longer though,which makes them harder. Practice now while u can,most climbers only go to the valley a few times if they r lucky,it just could be one of the most awsome things u ever did in your life.
R
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drunkenmonkey
Nov 11, 2002, 11:17 AM
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i would have to say that Spiffdog's approach is one i was gunning for when i first got to the valley for the first time but upon arrival decided to take a slightly less full on tack.. Our first was The Prow which in retrospect was a good choice. there's all of the technical elements of a first wall, full hanging belays, little ledges and some C2 copperhead pitch's. we did it in a three with two haul bags which wasn't too bad. the hauling is good until the very last pitch. if you do it in a three make sure you only take one single and a double, we took three singles, makes for interesting belays. One last hint if you do this route, don't do the north dome gulley descent in the dark, no matter how eager you are to hit the pizza deck before it shuts take the time and plan to do it during day light. its a killer, quite literally. go for it man and have a blast which ever way you go...
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