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davidbr
Oct 16, 2008, 10:55 AM
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How's the gear on Snooky's?
Would like to give it a go, but it looks a touch thin...
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snowjunkie
Oct 16, 2008, 11:24 AM
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It's G all the way. It'll eat up small cams and nuts. Just make sure you protect the crux which is right near the base of the climb.
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taino
Oct 16, 2008, 1:34 PM
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The gear is great - one cam and small nuts on P1, mostly cams or tricams on P2. Just make sure that you protect the very low crux, as the poster above mentioned, and also make sure your second knows that you could deck if there's too much slack.
T
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Gmburns2000
Oct 16, 2008, 2:16 PM
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what they said ^^^
except that I'd add that while the gear is good, you need to make sure that the gear you place is solid, as the spots are a bit spread from move to move without any other alternatives. Any pulled gear near the bottom of P1 would be trouble.
It's a great route. Have fun!
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davidbr
Oct 16, 2008, 6:07 PM
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Good to hear. Thanks, everyone.
Dave
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TradEddie
Oct 18, 2008, 12:06 AM
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When they say small, they mean micro-, not just small.
Great climb though, especially since I didn't have to lead P1.
TE
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bobruef
Oct 18, 2008, 12:27 AM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
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P1 is phenomenal (can't comment on P2). Loved this climb. Eats nuts. Just enough gear, right when you need it. I remember some cherry placements up higher. What everybody else said about down-low too.
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cacalderon
Oct 18, 2008, 1:49 AM
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c3 cams are helpful on P1... its a good route.
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coppertone
Oct 19, 2008, 1:47 AM
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cacalderon wrote: c3 cams are helpful on P1... its a good route.
No need for any cams on the the first pitch as it can be done very safely(G) with just nuts.
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gunkiemike
Oct 19, 2008, 3:14 AM
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coppertone wrote: cacalderon wrote: c3 cams are helpful on P1... its a good route. No need for any cams on the the first pitch as it can be done very safely(G) with just nuts.
Nevertheless, a cam as the first piece, clipped fairly short, will keep the nuts where you want them if your rope suddenly goes tight.
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gunksgoer
Oct 19, 2008, 3:54 AM
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Ive done it as a practice aid climb. I maybe hooked once or twice.
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cliffmama
Oct 25, 2008, 5:07 AM
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But gear won't protect you from idiots throwing rap ropes down on your head while you're leading. A very common occurrence on Snooky's. Despite a nice straight down line from the rap anchors and a clear view of people climbing up, people still throw ropes instead of lowering them.
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devkrev
Oct 25, 2008, 5:39 PM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
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I remember bringing my BD micros and trango brassies and being very happy to have them.
dev
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elizaclimb
Aug 5, 2009, 4:40 AM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2005
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i agree with all that was said previous. there is one move i find to be a second crux, but that is protected by a pin. You can backup the pin behind a flake.
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