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angry
Jun 13, 2008, 1:53 PM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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You need a seriously bitching name for this.
I'm thinking HOMO WOOD
Honorable Off Mountain Or Wall Overload and Occlusion Device
What do you think?
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anykineclimb
Jun 13, 2008, 2:20 PM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Mar 30, 2003
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angry wrote: You need a seriously bitching name for this. I'm thinking HOMO WOOD Honorable Off Mountain Or Wall Overload and Occlusion Device What do you think?
BWAHAHAHAHA
awesome john.
For $150 you can get some holds on eBay to tear up. Although important, grip strength isn't the most important factor for drytooling training.
Its learning to stay on the hold; keeping your picks "quiet"
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dta95b7r
Jun 13, 2008, 3:25 PM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: May 20, 2007
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I could make a pair of those in about 10 minutes... 150$ thats crazy talk
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angry
Nov 11, 2008, 1:52 AM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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I spent the afternoon on these.
I think it's the most fun I've ever had at a climbing gym.
A couple random issues.
-I was leading everything and the falls were very dramatic, I'd go cartwheeling backwards flying off the wall. You need to be absolutely certain your belayer knows how to give you a soft catch and you should probably only lead on the very overhanging parts. You could jack yourself up on the vertical with the way falls spin you upside down.
-These only work on holds you can get the loop around. A 5.12 with a bunch of little incut chips is more doable than a 5.9 jughaul. The ideal holds are horn type of holds.
Getting from one thing the tool will stick on to the next can be a real challenge. It's a fantastic way to practice fig 4's and fig 9's as well as some really funky stuff. I don't know if it'll help dry tooling but I'm definitely using them again.
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michael_c
Nov 11, 2008, 2:30 AM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: May 19, 2005
Posts: 29
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Sweet idea, very simplistic but hadn't been thought of.
I'd imagine there is some stiff cable being passed through the tube webbing to give a small "edge" you can catch on small holds, it also keeps the loop upright to allow you to snag the next hold.
I'd imagine the webbing is also acting like a protector to protect the holds from the metal cable and providing some extra friction between the hold and the cable more so than giving an holding strength
I'm assuming the metal head at the top of the handle is allowing you to swap out cable and secures the webbing to stop it from slipping up the cable. You could probably even you a standard cable fixing from a balustrade or something similar to do the job.
I'd say $150 is over priced. You could probably manufacture those things pretty cheap and quickly.
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angry
Nov 11, 2008, 3:44 AM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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I didn't use a metal cable, I used several layers of duct tape and covered it in athletic tape. It was pretty stiff but I'm on the drawing board for a new material that keeps it's shape.
I think that a strip on 2mm climbing rubber glued to the webbing would work perfect but a 2mmX1"X2' would be really hard to come by. I'll poke around the hardware store tomorrow.
Also, I'm using a handmade copy of what's in the video. Total cost is about $10 and once I figure out exactly what I want to do with the webbing I could easily crank out 10 or 12 a day.
I'm not selling them, but yeah, $150 for these is crazy talk.
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chossmonkey
Nov 11, 2008, 1:05 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
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figfour wrote: it doesn't sell... yet!  but i reckon they'd retail around $150 a pair if they were. It was my honors uni project this year, but i'm keen to develop it further if there's anyone out there interested! just trying to get it out there and get a better idea of whether people are into the idea!
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yodadave
Nov 11, 2008, 11:13 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
Posts: 510
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seems like it would be easy to stay on holds, little chance of popping off. Does look really fun though I already have designs running through my head.
One alternative for gym tooling is this plastic coating stuff you can get that you can just dip your picks in. Its used for coating tool handles
https://www.hardwareworld.com/Plastic-Dip-145-ounce-Blue-pC443B6.aspx
no earthly idea how to embed the link, sorry.
it works good easpecially on old duller picks
Getting it off your picks can be tricky but doable
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angry
Nov 11, 2008, 11:24 PM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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Well, first off, I didn't come up with this idea. Fig4 did. I saw his design and built some for myself.
What I liked about these is that the gym would let me use them. Plastic picks, plastic coated picks, regular picks, most gyms won't allow them to be used, liability wise for good reason.
I would definitely get more out of a training session on real tools, but these are pretty good especially because I'm actually allowed to use them.
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