|
funintheslots
Nov 17, 2008, 8:55 PM
Post #1 of 21
(1323 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2006
Posts: 17
|
On the Shark Fin in the Alabama Hills, California???
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Nov 17, 2008, 8:58 PM
Post #2 of 21
(1313 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
You either fix the anchor yourself or tell someone who can. Other than that, you just leave a note somewhere you hope someone will see it. There is no organization who tracks and fixes gear.
If it's just old and crappy, you could probably get the asca to supply you with the hardware though you'd have to put it in the rock yourself.
|
|
|
|
|
mounter
Nov 17, 2008, 9:14 PM
Post #3 of 21
(1274 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 18, 2003
Posts: 133
|
Call President Elect Barack Obama on the issue. Or, send a note the Reverend Billy Graham...ensure you include a check. Sorry to be a smart@ss, I just couldn't help myself.
'
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
Nov 17, 2008, 9:29 PM
Post #4 of 21
(1245 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
funintheslots wrote: On the Shark Fin in the Alabama Hills, California???
|
|
|
|
|
Arrogant_Bastard
Nov 17, 2008, 9:54 PM
Post #6 of 21
(1210 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994
|
funintheslots wrote: On the Shark Fin in the Alabama Hills, California???
You can try in here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=1884283
While it's not an official place to seek help, there are several regulars in that forum that are familiar with the area, and happen to be really nice guys. They'll help you out.
|
|
|
|
|
wes_allen
Nov 17, 2008, 9:56 PM
Post #7 of 21
(1205 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2002
Posts: 549
|
angry wrote: There is no organization who tracks and fixes gear.
We aren't perfect and are just for the red but we do try,
http://www.teamsuckclimbing.com/
Would be cool if the other bigger areas had something kinda like it.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Nov 17, 2008, 10:05 PM
Post #8 of 21
(1190 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
wes_allen wrote: angry wrote: There is no organization who tracks and fixes gear. We aren't perfect and are just for the red but we do try, http://www.teamsuckclimbing.com/ Would be cool if the other bigger areas had something kinda like it.
The problem with that is when people erroneously say "They should fix this anchor", now there is a "they". I'm not saying don't fix anchors, lord knows I've done a lot of them myself. I'm just saying you shouldn't take it upon yourselves or you'll soon be the only ones that ever fix anchors.
Knowhatimsayin?
|
|
|
|
|
donald949
Nov 17, 2008, 10:25 PM
Post #9 of 21
(1148 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
|
funintheslots wrote: On the Shark Fin in the Alabama Hills, California???
What is the problem with the anchors on the Fin? I was hoping to climb that this winter/spring.
Otherwise, there is a local out there in LP who is quite active, and if he knew of the issue would prolly take it upon himself to fix. Meet him once, real good guy. If you can explain, I can PM a good friend of his, who might pass the info along.
Don
|
|
|
|
|
wes_allen
Nov 17, 2008, 10:28 PM
Post #10 of 21
(1137 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2002
Posts: 549
|
angry wrote: wes_allen wrote: angry wrote: There is no organization who tracks and fixes gear. We aren't perfect and are just for the red but we do try, http://www.teamsuckclimbing.com/ Would be cool if the other bigger areas had something kinda like it. The problem with that is when people erroneously say "They should fix this anchor", now there is a "they". I'm not saying don't fix anchors, lord knows I've done a lot of them myself. I'm just saying you shouldn't take it upon yourselves or you'll soon be the only ones that ever fix anchors. Knowhatimsayin?
Yep, it is tricky sometimes, but it is an issue that needs to be taken care of, so providing a way to get the info out there is helpful. Plus, people can donate a bit to help buy the bolts, etc. In a perfect world, people would just take care of issues as they come across them, but the reality is that there are probably 1,000 plus climbers to every climber with a drill. We do try to make sure people understand that we can't/don't/won't be fixing every issue, but it just gives us a place to start.
|
|
|
|
|
funintheslots
Nov 17, 2008, 10:32 PM
Post #11 of 21
(1130 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2006
Posts: 17
|
Both anchor bolts at the top of the Shark's Fin Arete route are loose enough to wiggle with hand pressure. I chose not to trust them either to be lowered or to toprope my partner; I used an alternative anchor a few feet to the left.
Maybe the bolts can be tightened, but I don't have enough experience with bolts to make that call. My main concern is that someone else doesn't get hurt.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Nov 17, 2008, 10:35 PM
Post #12 of 21
(1119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
wes_allen wrote: angry wrote: wes_allen wrote: angry wrote: There is no organization who tracks and fixes gear. We aren't perfect and are just for the red but we do try, http://www.teamsuckclimbing.com/ Would be cool if the other bigger areas had something kinda like it. The problem with that is when people erroneously say "They should fix this anchor", now there is a "they". I'm not saying don't fix anchors, lord knows I've done a lot of them myself. I'm just saying you shouldn't take it upon yourselves or you'll soon be the only ones that ever fix anchors. Knowhatimsayin? Yep, it is tricky sometimes, but it is an issue that needs to be taken care of, so providing a way to get the info out there is helpful. Plus, people can donate a bit to help buy the bolts, etc. In a perfect world, people would just take care of issues as they come across them, but the reality is that there are probably 1,000 plus climbers to every climber with a drill. We do try to make sure people understand that we can't/don't/won't be fixing every issue, but it just gives us a place to start.
On the other hand, if you're the guy who just spent his day fixing anchors and you start telling a bunch of dead baby jokes around the campfire, people are less likely to tell you what an ass you are.
Not that I've ever done such a thing.
|
|
|
|
|
wes_allen
Nov 17, 2008, 10:42 PM
Post #13 of 21
(1107 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2002
Posts: 549
|
Yep, and sometimes random people will buy you beer, though it doesn't happen as often as I think it should...
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Nov 17, 2008, 10:48 PM
Post #14 of 21
(1098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
if you do not know how to fix it then get a saw and cut it. That way, you save someone's life from accidental anchor failure.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Nov 17, 2008, 10:54 PM
Post #15 of 21
(1085 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
funintheslots wrote: Both anchor bolts at the top of the Shark's Fin Arete route are loose enough to wiggle with hand pressure. I chose not to trust them either to be lowered or to toprope my partner; I used an alternative anchor a few feet to the left. Maybe the bolts can be tightened, but I don't have enough experience with bolts to make that call. My main concern is that someone else doesn't get hurt.
Now I'm a little confused. Are the bolts themselves actually "loose enough to wiggle" or are the hangars merely loose on the bolts?
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
mojomonkey
Nov 17, 2008, 10:55 PM
Post #16 of 21
(1082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
|
funintheslots wrote: Both anchor bolts at the top of the Shark's Fin Arete route are loose enough to wiggle with hand pressure. I chose not to trust them either to be lowered or to toprope my partner; I used an alternative anchor a few feet to the left. Maybe the bolts can be tightened, but I don't have enough experience with bolts to make that call. My main concern is that someone else doesn't get hurt.
As in a gear anchor on an otherwise sport route? Or there were other bolts a few feet away?
|
|
|
|
|
funintheslots
Nov 17, 2008, 11:03 PM
Post #17 of 21
(1069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2006
Posts: 17
|
The bolts themselves wiggle in the rock.
My understanding is that spinning hangars (what you described, I think) aren't that great of a deal either, but I have used them if the bolt is tight in the rock.
|
|
|
|
|
funintheslots
Nov 17, 2008, 11:09 PM
Post #18 of 21
(1056 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2006
Posts: 17
|
There is another set of bolts / anchors at the top of the East Face route. They were both solid.
|
|
|
|
|
donald949
Nov 18, 2008, 12:14 AM
Post #19 of 21
(1008 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
|
funintheslots wrote: Both anchor bolts at the top of the Shark's Fin Arete route are loose enough to wiggle with hand pressure. I chose not to trust them either to be lowered or to toprope my partner; I used an alternative anchor a few feet to the left. Maybe the bolts can be tightened, but I don't have enough experience with bolts to make that call. My main concern is that someone else doesn't get hurt.
Don
|
|
|
|
|
funintheslots
Nov 18, 2008, 3:09 PM
Post #20 of 21
(924 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2006
Posts: 17
|
Don,
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
funintheslots
Nov 18, 2008, 3:11 PM
Post #21 of 21
(919 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2006
Posts: 17
|
This worked. I got a reply from Greg this morning:
Thanks Rick, I'm not surprised with the rock quality on the top of a lot of those formations. I'll see if I can get over there and do the replacement.
Thanks for letting me know, and please email anytime you notice problem anchors!
Greg
Greg Barnes
Director, ASCA
www.safeclimbing.org
|
|
|
|
|
|
