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epoch
Moderator
Nov 17, 2008, 2:01 AM
Post #1 of 8
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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Hi folks!
I was thinking the other day about how we could further expand our experience and knowledge around here. Though the years several great discussions have taken place that revolutionized our way of thinking when it came to the seemingly benign way that we make anchors.
For those of us who have been doing this for some time, making an anchor can almost seem second-nature and we often take for granted the way that we plug gear into the rock, check it, and rig it together to maintain redundancy.
For those beginning to take the lead and are now thrown into the realm of this responsibility, everything is crucially analyzed tested and with fearful reluctance put into place.
Everyone is at different levels and I am taking it upon myself to present to you some anchors. It is with my intent to carry a camera with me and take pics of some of my anchors to bring back here for everyone to mull over. I can guarantee that I will make anchors all over the place but also important I will make some at ground-level that have some sketchy placements, improper rigging, or other subtle things that a keen-eyed experienced climber should catch right off.
Q.What brought about the inspiration for this?
A.Improved sliding x: Is it really safer? A thread that explored the realm of redundancy and self equalization in anchor rigging. Some of the concepts can be seen in Climbing Anchors by John Long and Bob Gaines. {(2006) 2nd ed. Guilford, CT: Falcon Guide. ISBN-13: 978-0-7627-2326-3 / ISBN-10: 0-7627-2326-2.}
Q.How has this concept evolved?
A.Through meaningful discussion on this site through the following thread(s):
Yet another Improved(?) Equalette idea...
New anchor rig for full 3 piece equalization and limited extension
New (?) anchor setup...seriously!
Equallette with 4 strand powerpoint
Equalette with a 6 strand power point.
Solution to John Long's anchor challenge
As you can see from the above threads, there are many, many ways that an anchor can be rigged. Situationally, each has their own benefits and drawbacks. These sets of threads are to evaluate anchors that would be found in different situations and the subsequent decision made on how to best impliment adequate protection for the leader and subsequent climbers.
The best way for a person to improve is through analysis and feedback. Whether on your own or by peer-review this is a useful tool to improve your methodology and eye for the critical. If you would like to add to this series title your thread as such and add the next sequential number to your post (Example: Anchors - Analysis (No XXX). I'll keep this post updated for quick reference.
An Anchor to Beat On [Part I of the Anchors - Analysis series]
Another anchor critique (No 2)
Anchors - Analysis (No 3)
Disclaimer:
Rock Climbing and associated activities are inherently dangerous and potentially deadly. In no way with these posts am I advocating nor suggesting that a person put themselves in a compromising situation to contribute to the topics described herein. Bla... bla... bla... bla... bla... Be safe.
(This post was edited by epoch on Nov 18, 2008, 8:50 PM)
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norushnomore
Nov 19, 2008, 10:09 AM
Post #2 of 8
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
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Crappolette Creationism Classes will be starting shortly
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dingus
Nov 19, 2008, 1:03 PM
Post #3 of 8
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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I can't believe you made this a sticky.
Hahahahahahahahahaha!
You're going to get someone killed with this shit.
DMT
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swaghole
Nov 19, 2008, 1:15 PM
Post #4 of 8
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Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 371
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This series is a good idea.
I find that most anchor critiques I've read run the full spectrum - from "You're gonna die" to "I'd drop my truck on that". All for the same anchor.
This being said, most critiques do include some very good points.
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johnwesely
Nov 19, 2008, 2:20 PM
Post #5 of 8
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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I love anchor critique threads. I wish there were at least ten a day.
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tradrenn
Nov 22, 2008, 7:50 AM
Post #6 of 8
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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dingus wrote: I can't believe you made this a sticky.
That's what I was thinking too.
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majid_sabet
Nov 22, 2008, 8:45 AM
Post #7 of 8
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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I can't believe that 660.000 climbers follow that fool and thinking that his book is the only solution to climbing anchors.
feel sorry for you hopeless climbers
go on and let me see what kind of a new sling-XCF you create this time
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notapplicable
Nov 22, 2008, 6:10 PM
Post #8 of 8
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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I kind of like the idea of this as a "sticky". No RC.com is not supposed to serve as a school for nOObs but it can help put into context some of the things that people may read about on here and not totally understand the mechanics of.
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