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mazzystr
Nov 24, 2008, 12:28 AM
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YO!
I'm interested in hearing about your first 5.10 lead.
It can be first lead, first onsight, first fall, first redpoint, location, date, comments, etc.
The rule is it has to be 5.10 in an official guidebook and its has to be a trad line.
Thanks,
/Chris C
(This post was edited by mazzystr on Nov 24, 2008, 12:35 AM)
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mazzystr
Nov 24, 2008, 12:33 AM
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I'll start...
First 5.10 lead...
The Beeneling - 5.10a - Red River Gorge, Kentucky (2007/09/01)
I was a foot from onsighting my first 5.10 and I fell trying to flop onto the ledge.
First 5.10 onsight...
Cruising Lane - 5.10a - Red River Gorge, Kentucky (2008/5/24)
I got two 5.10 onsights that day, got Headstone Surfer too. What a birthday present, eh?
ttyl,
/Chris C
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graniteboy
Nov 24, 2008, 11:48 PM
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Doggy Do, 10a offwidth on the camp 4 wall, august 1977. I had no pro big enough to fit the wide part of the thing, and cams hadn't been invented yet....much less big cams....so I guess it was my first 10a lead and first 10a solo simultaneously.
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vegastradguy
Nov 25, 2008, 12:02 AM
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Kemosabe, .10- over in Willow Springs in Red Rock. Thin/questionable pro on moderate terrain with bad fall potential to a slab crux up high. It was an interesting moment as i committed to the crux, completely unsure whether or not i would fall.
- i found out later that peter croft and jim donini were watching (it was the first annual RR Rendezvous)
good times.....
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clee03m
Nov 25, 2008, 12:24 AM
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graniteboy wrote: Doggy Do, 10a offwidth on the camp 4 wall, august 1977. I had no pro big enough to fit the wide part of the thing, and cams hadn't been invented yet....much less big cams....so I guess it was my first 10a lead and first 10a solo simultaneously.
*shudder*
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evanwish
Nov 25, 2008, 1:35 AM
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mine was about my third lead...
but that in no way compares to granite wrote: Doggy Do, 10a offwidth on the camp 4 wall, august 1977. I had no pro big enough to fit the wide part of the thing, and cams hadn't been invented yet....much less big cams....so I guess it was my first 10a lead and first 10a solo simultaneously.
good job man thats awesome!
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senilechaz
Nov 25, 2008, 1:54 AM
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This past year was my first year leading trad and I did The Dangler 5.10a in the Gunks NY bout two months ago, my first and as of now my only 5.10. Super cool overhang with bomber gear and super safe falls. The climb itself is only about 20 ft of 5.10 climbing when your working the overhang but very fun and one of the most photogenic climbs around. The Gunks it seems from talking to alot of climbers seems to be one of the best places for 5.10 trad, I myself have followed alot of them and cant wait to lead them.
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patmay81
Nov 25, 2008, 2:08 AM
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I dont actually remember the name of the route, but its the 10b finger crack/dihedral righ of the exit chimney at the north point, smith rock (dog assent). second was "if i ran the circus" 10a, again north point smith rock (red point assent). this on reigns still to this day as my favorite short trad climb.
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ryanb
Nov 25, 2008, 2:36 AM
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Plumb pudding, 5.10a, Index, WA...summer 2003ish.
During college a buddy and I managed to scrape together enough money tutoring calculus and pouring concrete piece together a set of cams each...aliens to camalots. A few of the last aliens we bought were dimpled but this was before we knew that was bad.
We set about working our way through the few moderates on the Index town walls and one hot summer day found us at the mid wall, looking up at a lazer cut finger crack in the back of a high dihedral. The guide book read "remarkably parallel crack, bring extra small cams" so I figured it was a good thing we had both sets and started up.
The lower section of this climb has a few hard thin moves and the upper section is one long, ever so lightly slabey section of sustained jamming and lay backing, by the time I realized I was out of gear that would fit I was five feet above the last piece, trying to force a .75 into a grey alien sized spot and thinking I couldn't reverse the moves below...
It was probably only 15-20 feet to the anchor but it seemed like forever, the muscles i'd built shoveling concrete screaming and my hands sweating like crazy. I kept telling myself I had lots of gear in even if it was a ways below...I think I grabbed the chains when I got to them, so not even sure if it counts as clean but it felt awesome.
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mazzystr
Nov 25, 2008, 4:32 PM
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nice! awesome stories!
i can't remember if i was on doggy do at c4 wall... i know i was on henley quits 2yrs ago and i wasn't quit a 5.10 crack climber yet. he had to ...ahem... haul me up the overhanging section.
nice story vegastradguy!
i love that feeling of being scared as hell. omg, two more moves and the climb should be over... four moves later... two more moves and there will be jugs... yea right!
keep the stories comin!
/Chris
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rsmillbern
Nov 25, 2008, 4:40 PM
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Ya, know I keep thinking, but I think my first 10 trad lead was the first pitch of Invisible Airwaves at Looking Glass. I "got up" a couple 10 before that, but it was more 5.9 A0....
I missed a key gear placement and scared the shit outa my belayer. Was in ground fall region for a bit...
(This post was edited by rsmillbern on Nov 25, 2008, 4:41 PM)
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rsmillbern
Nov 25, 2008, 4:47 PM
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Actually I may have led a 10 or 2 climbing in the Paltz area in Germany, but I can never keep straight their ratting system ;-)
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ahab
Nov 25, 2008, 5:22 PM
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rock wars, red river gorge.
btw, the beeneling is 5.9+. sorry
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duncanlennon
Nov 25, 2008, 6:27 PM
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After leading up to 5.9 in the US, I moved to England, where I became immediately confused by the grades. Having no frame of reference, I decided to 'warm up' on Embankment 3, a finger crack at Millstone Edge in the Peak District. The grade was E1 5b (extreme), but they call a 5.3 'Hard Very Difficult', so Extreme didn't mean anything to me. I went up the thing, came down, and checked the guidebook grade translation- .10b. So my first 5.10 trad lead was an accidental one.
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tradrenn
Nov 25, 2008, 8:39 PM
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Way of the Peaceful Warrior.
Rock Wars was second.
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shimanilami
Nov 25, 2008, 8:58 PM
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Surrealistic Pillar Direct at Lover's Leap.
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snowey
Nov 25, 2008, 10:17 PM
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My first 5.10 was hobbit roof at joshua tree. Its a short climb with a 5.10d bolt protected face move and then a 5.10b/c thin hands roof. I was mostly leading 5.7-5.9 at the time. My roommate (glahhg) had been trying to talk me into climbing it for a while saying: "there is gear above you the whole way, go for the onsight!". I was on a five day trip to joshua tree and on the last day, the last route that I did was hobbit roof. Even though it was a short climb I fought for both of the crux moves.
I remember the smile on my face as I jammed the last few easy moves after the roof knowing that I sent.
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mazzystr
Nov 26, 2008, 3:24 AM
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ahab wrote: rock wars, red river gorge. btw, the beeneling is 5.9+. sorry
its been rerated, you know, supertopo style :P
I've sent "Where lizards dare" clean too...is that just a 5.9? You better be a confident leader if you get on that one or pain will be part of your life, hehe.
Keep em coming!
/Chris C
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soyshadymilkman
Nov 26, 2008, 3:40 AM
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Invisible Airways, 5.10 c @ the Northface of Looking Glass, NC....AMAZING AMAZING ROUTE!!!! Such a beautiful line. |
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colatownkid
Nov 26, 2008, 1:38 PM
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First pitch of "The Seal" (5.10a) on the North Side of Looking Glass Rock. I was looking for my first 5.10 on gear but wasn't really worried about on-sighting anything. The Seal was the only .10 I had top-roped recently that seemed like fun. Plus, it's got a couple awkward chimney moves, totally not my style, and I'm a believer in getting better by working your weaknesses.
Unfortunately, I did not get the onsight. I weighted the gear as my feet and back slid inches at a time while trying to make the crux move in the chimney. As soon as I got back on, though, it went immediately.
My first on-sight was the first pitch of "Invisible Airways" (5.10c), also on the North Side of Looking Glass. I climbed it in the rain since the route is protected from weather by the overhanging 3rd and 4th pitches. I also earned myself a 40 of miller high life for the on-sight.
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zealotnoob
Nov 26, 2008, 1:40 PM
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Was climbing at Old Rag in Virginia and spied the gobsmacking "Oh My God Dihedral" across the valley. I told my buddy, "I don't care how hard that line is, we have to try it."
After looking it up in the guide book and enjoying the incredibly appropriate route name, we learned that the line went at 10c.
I hadn't tried anything harder than 5.9 and figured it was going to be a hang dog affair.
Before I knew it I was 15' from the top and knew I had it.
That onsight was a high that lasted a long time.
Here's a picture of the send: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...Dihedral_100835.html
(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Nov 26, 2008, 1:45 PM)
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joshy8200
Nov 26, 2008, 2:47 PM
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My first 5.10 redpoint was Harpoon at Ship Rock, NC. And the first 5.10 I ever onsighted was "The Entertainer", New River Gorge.
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MykeDronez
Nov 27, 2008, 1:52 AM
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Yup, Rock Wars. Cruising Lane a couple days later. And while The Beeneling and Where Lizards Dare may be harder than the aforementioned routes they are still 9+ and nothing can change that- its history man, and they'll always make for a good story.
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climbinginchico
Nov 27, 2008, 8:35 PM
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Little Sheba 10a in Tuolumne. I had seconded it the year before.
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