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Aid Climbing Grand Illusion
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evanwish


Nov 21, 2008, 7:08 PM
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Aid Climbing Grand Illusion
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So i've done a few easy C1 aid climbs so far; I have 2 aid ladders, ascenders, and a FULL trad rack (combined we would have tripples and even quadrooples of each size cams and nuts)

my question is: What do i need to know about aiding Grand Illusion ? I don't have alot of aid experience, but this route seems too apealing and historic to pass up.


thanks,
Evan Wish


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Nov 25, 2008, 10:08 AM
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Re: [evanwish] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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Evan, my guess is the pro is not going to be straight forward on this one. It goes at 13 + so having never seen this route I would guess the crack is not continuous. That leaves aid climbers other options, not clean options, but potentially harmful to the route options. Most will argue that hooking is clean, but I know for fact that it is not always straight forward and does have the potential to harm and damage the route.
We as aid climbers must preserve all the stone as much as we can and if it is free, then it is not ours to aid without purely "clean methods". I would suggest if you must do this route then clean only, with a top rope would be your best first attempt. At 50 feet though I'm sure there are many better objectives out there to give you a classic line experience without getting on a "High End" free climb.
You are merely hours from some of the best most classic aid climbing on the planet. May I suggest doing the bottom of any of these lines. They are very committing, yet most can be done and off from anywhere in the first three or four pitches, and cannot get any more historic than the birth place of big wall climbing than this.
Just my thoughts on this.
Bob


bob_54b


Nov 25, 2008, 10:25 AM
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Re: [evanwish] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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I direct aided it way before Massa Yaniro freed it. it's a great route however you do it...way exposed on the outside of the roof. anyway...i seem to remember using bongs up to 2 1/2" (this was before cams and barely into hexes). need some smaller stuff for the first pitch--a set or two of stoppers/cams to 1". the second pitch is like 5.5.
the roof would take a lot of cams from 1" to 2 1/2' (SAY UP TO A #4 CAMALOT). the roof is about 30' of overhanging crack so take a couple of sets of cams.
it's like A2 (old aid rating) but only because it's a bit strenous hanging out under the roof...the placements were all pretty bomber as I remember.
it's a fun route to aid...spectacular but not scary.


bob_54b


Nov 25, 2008, 10:40 AM
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I was reading xtremcats post and I think you could do it clean...which nowadays is the necessary way to do it, since it is such a famous and fantastic free climb and we don't want to mess it up.
seems I remember when you get above the roof and it starts to kick back, it widens up a bit, you needed the bigger stuff there.
the crack in the roof is sort of like being in the top of an A-frame, it rounds into this pretty good crack in the top.
it'll be an adventure...it was for us and that's the cool part.


caughtinside


Nov 25, 2008, 11:18 AM
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Re: [evanwish] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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evanwish wrote:
So i've done a few easy C1 aid climbs so far; I have 2 aid ladders, ascenders, and a FULL trad rack (combined we would have tripples and even quadrooples of each size cams and nuts)

my question is: What do i need to know about aiding Grand Illusion ? I don't have alot of aid experience, but this route seems too apealing and historic to pass up.


thanks,
Evan Wish

All you need to know is that you must aid it without pins or a hammer. The crack is continuous and thin, so rack accordingly.


dingus


Nov 25, 2008, 11:38 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
evanwish wrote:
So i've done a few easy C1 aid climbs so far; I have 2 aid ladders, ascenders, and a FULL trad rack (combined we would have tripples and even quadrooples of each size cams and nuts)

my question is: What do i need to know about aiding Grand Illusion ? I don't have alot of aid experience, but this route seems too apealing and historic to pass up.


thanks,
Evan Wish

All you need to know is that you must aid it without pins or a hammer. The crack is continuous and thin, so rack accordingly.

They used to advertise Ballnuts using a pic of someone on the GI.

DMT


caughtinside


Nov 25, 2008, 11:49 AM
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Re: [dingus] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
evanwish wrote:
So i've done a few easy C1 aid climbs so far; I have 2 aid ladders, ascenders, and a FULL trad rack (combined we would have tripples and even quadrooples of each size cams and nuts)

my question is: What do i need to know about aiding Grand Illusion ? I don't have alot of aid experience, but this route seems too apealing and historic to pass up.


thanks,
Evan Wish

All you need to know is that you must aid it without pins or a hammer. The crack is continuous and thin, so rack accordingly.

They used to advertise Ballnuts using a pic of someone on the GI.

DMT

Well for true style points you have to listen to Styx while you do it.

Of course, if you aid it, you're just doing the third pitch of the Fracture.


dingus


Nov 25, 2008, 11:52 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
dingus wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
evanwish wrote:
So i've done a few easy C1 aid climbs so far; I have 2 aid ladders, ascenders, and a FULL trad rack (combined we would have tripples and even quadrooples of each size cams and nuts)

my question is: What do i need to know about aiding Grand Illusion ? I don't have alot of aid experience, but this route seems too apealing and historic to pass up.


thanks,
Evan Wish

All you need to know is that you must aid it without pins or a hammer. The crack is continuous and thin, so rack accordingly.

They used to advertise Ballnuts using a pic of someone on the GI.

DMT

Well for true style points you have to listen to Styx while you do it.

Of course, if you aid it, you're just doing the third pitch of the Fracture.

Don't be fooled by
the radio
or the climbing magazines

who show you photographs
of how your rack should be
imagine someone else's
fantasy....

Cheers caught
DMT


dingus


Nov 25, 2008, 11:53 AM
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Re: [dingus] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
evanwish wrote:
So i've done a few easy C1 aid climbs so far; I have 2 aid ladders, ascenders, and a FULL trad rack (combined we would have tripples and even quadrooples of each size cams and nuts)

my question is: What do i need to know about aiding Grand Illusion ? I don't have alot of aid experience, but this route seems too apealing and historic to pass up.


thanks,
Evan Wish

All you need to know is that you must aid it without pins or a hammer. The crack is continuous and thin, so rack accordingly.

They used to advertise Ballnuts using a pic of someone on the GI.

DMT


Upon reflection I think they were Rollers something, not ballnuts. Oh well....

whatever.

DMT


shimanilami


Nov 25, 2008, 12:02 PM
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Re: [evanwish] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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Cam hooks will add a little spice to the climb and cut your gear placements down by a third. And they're bad ass.


evanwish


Nov 25, 2008, 6:02 PM
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Re: [bob_54b] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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bob_54b wrote:
I think you could do it clean...which nowadays is the necessary way to do it, since it is such a famous and fantastic free climb and we don't want to mess it up. <snip> it'll be an adventure...it was for us and that's the cool part.

a free climb up GI is sure in my dreams, but far in the future. the best i've done is 20 feet of a .12 crack

i guess something to work up to! :]


evanwish


Nov 26, 2008, 11:48 AM
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ok now thats just strange... i went to the gym last night (i know, i know..) and ended up climbing that .12 crack and getting 15' up a 5.13


so maybe its not toooooo far off in the future.
thanks for the motivation!!!


caughtinside


Nov 26, 2008, 11:56 AM
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evanwish wrote:
ok now thats just strange... i went to the gym last night (i know, i know..) and ended up climbing that .12 crack and getting 15' up a 5.13

Oh? Then what are you waiting for? leave the aid gear on the ground and give it a run, sounds like you're ready.


evanwish


Nov 26, 2008, 12:10 PM
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caughtinside wrote:
evanwish wrote:
ok now thats just strange... i went to the gym last night (i know, i know..) and ended up climbing that .12 crack and getting 15' up a 5.13

Oh? Then what are you waiting for? leave the aid gear on the ground and give it a run, sounds like you're ready.

well that's still 35 feet short of grand illusion. Its definately my mail goal

along side with the Fat Merchant's Crack (i don't know, why but i'm dying to eventually do that route)


salamanizer


Nov 26, 2008, 1:02 PM
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evanwish wrote:
ok now thats just strange... i went to the gym last night (i know, i know..) and ended up climbing that .12 crack and getting 15' up a 5.13


so maybe its not toooooo far off in the future.
thanks for the motivation!!!

Uh Evan, that natural .13 route in the gym there (which I'll confirm is at least 5.13) doesn't have a move close to .13 until the last 10ft. The first half is all .11+. And that .12 crack is really only about .11c, not sustained and only 25ft long. I've (spray) lead the .13 several times and have done 12 laps on the crack, downclimbing between each lap. Yesterday infact I walked it in my socks and I know I still don't have even a remote prare of sending that thing anytime soon.

That being said, you can aid it at moderate C1. It would be great practice, you can do it in the rain, and even if your aid climbing skills suck, you can work out the kinks on this thing as it is steep and awkward. Get an adjustable fifi hook or your abs will suffer. Triple up on your mid sized cams and back clean... but not too much.

And GO!

Edited to add. Fat Merchants crack is a serious route. The crux is 50ft up in a bombay squeeze chimney over sharp talus. You can't get pro until well after the crux and it's as hard as .10b chimneys get.
Patience, make sure you're comfortable free soloing hard .10 OW's before you attempt it, cuz that's what you'll be doing.

Maybe TR it first.


(This post was edited by salamanizer on Nov 26, 2008, 1:06 PM)


caughtinside


Nov 26, 2008, 2:04 PM
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Re: [salamanizer] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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salamanizer wrote:
evanwish wrote:
ok now thats just strange... i went to the gym last night (i know, i know..) and ended up climbing that .12 crack and getting 15' up a 5.13


so maybe its not toooooo far off in the future.
thanks for the motivation!!!

Uh Evan, that natural .13 route in the gym there (which I'll confirm is at least 5.13) doesn't have a move close to .13 until the last 10ft. The first half is all .11+. And that .12 crack is really only about .11c, not sustained and only 25ft long.

Gee Chad, way to squash a guy's dream!Crazy

You got any time in december off? Week in bishop or smith?Angelic


zeke_sf


Nov 26, 2008, 4:09 PM
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Re: [evanwish] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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evanwish wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
evanwish wrote:
ok now thats just strange... i went to the gym last night (i know, i know..) and ended up climbing that .12 crack and getting 15' up a 5.13

Oh? Then what are you waiting for? leave the aid gear on the ground and give it a run, sounds like you're ready.

well that's still 35 feet short of grand illusion. Its definately my mail goal

along side with the Fat Merchant's Crack (i don't know, why but i'm dying to eventually do that route)

Hey, who knows, you may actually die doing it.


evanwish


Nov 26, 2008, 9:18 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
salamanizer wrote:
evanwish wrote:
ok now thats just strange... i went to the gym last night (i know, i know..) and ended up climbing that .12 crack and getting 15' up a 5.13


so maybe its not toooooo far off in the future.
thanks for the motivation!!!

Uh Evan, that natural .13 route in the gym there (which I'll confirm is at least 5.13) doesn't have a move close to .13 until the last 10ft. The first half is all .11+. And that .12 crack is really only about .11c, not sustained and only 25ft long.

Gee Chad, way to squash a guy's dream!Crazy

You got any time in december off? Week in bishop or smith?Angelic

no thats totally fine. I know that right now i have no chance in even getting close to toproping it, but what i do know is that i'm growing and getting stronger and since i'm only 17, i have loads of time to work my way up to that level. A real longterm goal, but for now i'd like to just aid it.

salamanizer wrote:
Get an adjustable fifi hook or your abs will suffer. Triple up on your mid sized cams and back clean
thanks, this is good, i didn't even think of that.

salamanizer wrote:
Fat Merchants crack is a serious route
yeah i'm not interested in the lead right now, but what i am interested in is doing longer offwidth routes. So rapping into fat merchants for a top rope would be high on my list.


in short, practice makes perfect and i've got some far off goals... :/


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