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suilenroc
Nov 27, 2008, 4:56 PM
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looserock wrote: I've seen ropes anchored at the edge before, and I've seen people swing from the side to rap down thier doubled climbing rope. What is the best way to rap over the edge if the rope is tied at or near the edge?
You would want to rig the anchor much higher on the trees. That way when you approach the edge you are able to keep your rap line taut and are able to avoid shock loading the anchor.
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Goo
Nov 28, 2008, 4:23 AM
Post #53 of 74
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suilenroc wrote: looserock wrote: I've seen ropes anchored at the edge before, and I've seen people swing from the side to rap down thier doubled climbing rope. What is the best way to rap over the edge if the rope is tied at or near the edge? You would want to rig the anchor much higher on the trees. That way when you approach the edge you are able to keep your rap line taut and are able to avoid shock loading the anchor.
or, if that's not possible (ex fixed chaintop anchors or bolts) you can reverse mantle and ease onto the rope, and so avoid shock loading the anchors or flipping upside down... just do it slowly and safely.
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shockabuku
Nov 28, 2008, 4:59 AM
Post #54 of 74
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suilenroc wrote: Its all good... I wish you would have been able to listen to the video. It seems as though the person that set the rig has done this before (i am still waiting to hear back from him). The person on the rappel was in fact doing it for their first time. That being said, i consider these kids MORON's because of their actions. Their setup was indeed not the worst... But taking possibly a factor 2 fall on it didn't help. To put a "friend" in that kind of situation is just plain stupid. Ever picked up someone's dead body at the bottom of a cliff (i have not)? A good friend of mine has to respond to the many incidents that occur in this area, i have heard the stories. Like i said, this hit close to home.. Anyways, maybe the word MORON may seem a bit strong for you. I find it to be quite fitting. I do not behave in this manor and never have when it comes to my buddies lives as well as my own. Cheers and safe climbing to you...
You know, there's a difference between being stupid and being ignorant. People don't know what they don't know.
By the way, the word "MORON's" above should not have an apostrophe. Now what should we call you?
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patmay81
Nov 28, 2008, 5:05 AM
Post #55 of 74
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Goo wrote: suilenroc wrote: looserock wrote: I've seen ropes anchored at the edge before, and I've seen people swing from the side to rap down thier doubled climbing rope. What is the best way to rap over the edge if the rope is tied at or near the edge? You would want to rig the anchor much higher on the trees. That way when you approach the edge you are able to keep your rap line taut and are able to avoid shock loading the anchor. or, if that's not possible (ex fixed chaintop anchors or bolts) you can reverse mantle and ease onto the rope, and so avoid shock loading the anchors or flipping upside down... just do it slowly and safely.
you probably dont want the anchor "higher in the trees", as it will slip, damage the trees, be to far from the edge, etc. I've done raps very similar to this over steep overhangs (but on better anchors).
I'm going to reference one of dingus' post in this thread "where would climbing be without the idiots like this" (or something to that effect).
Heck, if webbing, biners and ropes couldn't handle the abuse of a 6' fall, i think i'd give up climbing!
Sumary: imo nbd
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jollymon
Nov 28, 2008, 6:41 AM
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That is IT! I am giving up climbing to become a full time grammar nazi and rappelling BADASS! I could OWN this thread then. 
Okay...seriously I do not see anything wrong with this...but then again I am the kinda guy who likes to google accidents rappelling whippers ect ect and JUST GO AHEAD AND TELL ME YOU DO NOT ALSO. That's what I thought. No one is an  . Unsafe? sure. Worst thing ever? nope. SOMEONE has to keep my google searches entertaining.
In a separate note, I move we all write our usernames on our shirts and bring video cameras whenever we are about to do something stupid. It would be much more entertaining that way to say "hey did ya see dingus pendulum into that slab" or "wow, jollymon really owned that rappel. To bad hes such a grammar nazi dick"
-Jolly
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ski.ninja
Nov 28, 2008, 10:26 AM
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Guran wrote: No no no. Remember "Speed is safety" 
According to the theory of relativity, you're absolutely correct. If this setup were traveling at close to the speed of light then there's no way it could fail!
P.S.
Check out this moron.
http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=related
(This post was edited by ski.ninja on Nov 28, 2008, 10:27 AM)
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jmvc
Nov 28, 2008, 12:45 PM
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Having said that I agree with Dingus's point of view. I taught myself how to abseil, and I don't doubt that it would have made amusing footage.
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dingus
Nov 28, 2008, 1:05 PM
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Apparently a lot of folks 'get' what I was after.
Even olderic gets it but his bitterness torwards me prevents him from acknowledging it.
DMT
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king_rat
Nov 28, 2008, 1:10 PM
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Just read through this thread, the abseil was stupid yes, badly set up yes. but fuck I’ve done some pretty stupid things in my time to.
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apeman_e
Nov 28, 2008, 1:24 PM
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Seriously, I have both done and seen way dumber shit that that. I give props to the kid, though, he certainly sacked up for his first rappel.
First time I climbed, we used 1 sling tied in the american triangle of death on the bolted anchor. Stupid- yes. But it sparked my desire to climb and learn- thank god I survived.
Good post topic- dumbest thing you've ever done rock climbing.
jmvc video links are hysterical, especially the second one. I wish I was dumb enough to recreated it...
e
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olderic
Nov 28, 2008, 3:07 PM
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dingus wrote: Apparently a lot of folks 'get' what I was after. Even olderic gets it but his bitterness torwards me prevents him from acknowledging it. DMT
Not bitter at all. I don't know you at all outside of your Internet persona. How accurate is that? It would appear that we have somewhat similar backgrounds and experiences. I am in awe of the shear volume of verbage you are able to post. I guess if I have any criticism that come across as caustic its that I find a lot of your postings to be a bit cliche-ed. All the profound insights, the anecdotes where you are a lovable buffoon or justice prevails, or the heartwarming scenarios seem more like a Disney movie. Of course a Disney movie would typically represent a higher literary effort then 99% of the postings on these sites and you certainly have many fans - myself among them.
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knieveltech
Nov 28, 2008, 3:32 PM
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olderic wrote: dingus wrote: I have more in common with that kid then I do the overly careful, thrice-trained, 12-times read carefulniks that are pretty much the opposite of that kid. What he did was stupid. What he did was bold. They are not mutually exclusive and some amazing climbs have been done once started out of. um, stupidity. Revel in that bloke's madness, for you are staring at the heart and souil of climbing. Madness. Climbing IS NOT SAFE. DMT Any one who doesn't agree with that statement (which is one of Dingus's better ones - although it basically the same thing he has said hundreds of times on dozens of forums) is not a climber and will never get it.
Thankfully your definition of "climber" bears no more relevance than anyone else's.
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vize
Apr 18, 2009, 6:46 AM
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It was me featured in both of those youtube videos. It's taken me a long time to respond because I really just haven't read any of my messages on youtube in response to the video until the random night of tonight. I've read through the entire thread and I'd have to confirm a couple of things. Yes, it was obviously my first time rappelling off of a cliff. The first video was my very, very first time. The second video that looks sideways, was my second time ever during that same day, and was also when I injured my hand. If you see in that video, when i hit the rock was when I created a pretty significant lifelong scar on the back part of my hand. You'd also see in that video, at that point, I couldn't really continue rappelling cuz my hand was stuck to the rock and the rope was caught! I remember thinking, at the time when I hit the rock, that pain would be felt eventually but I just had too much adrenaline pumping to feel it then. I was just happy to know that I had not fallen to my death. Later in the day my friend told me I went into a mild shock because he was asking me questions when I landed and I was not responding. I don't even remember him asking me questions. Both times that I rappelled I was under the impression that my friend knew exactly what he was doing. It's only after I read these posts tonight that I realize I could be dead right now? Well, yeah, it took guts to jump off the cliff like I did but I thought it was normal! I'd also like to add in, after I received the nice little scar on my hand I have not rock climbed again. It's a shame too, because I loved it my first time climbing outdoors. Too bad it was the first time that I had to use my whole t-shirt as a tourniquet to stop the bleeding. As weird as it may sound, I'd still like to climb again. Any help/ideas/comments would be appreciated.
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Lazlo
Apr 18, 2009, 2:18 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: vize wrote: As weird as it may sound, I'd still like to climb again. Any help/ideas/comments would be appreciated. Find a more competent partner, and get to it! It sounds like you are anything but a moron, and a lifelong scar is hardly a reason to stop doing something you enjoy
I couldn't say it better.
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shockabuku
Apr 18, 2009, 3:19 PM
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Don't take it too hard. Find someone qualified to help you learn. Go to a guide service or climbing gym. It'll cost you more but most likely you'll get a reasonably qualified instructor. Good luck, have fun. Also, get yourself a book on climbing and read it. Have some idea of what is reasonable and what isn't and ask questions. In this game you gotta take responsibility for your own safety.
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jamincan
Apr 18, 2009, 6:11 PM
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I agree, it takes a lot of guts to do what the guy did; however, I think that you aren't really taking into account the fact that this was the very first time the guy rappelled. Sure, the unknown is scary, but he also trusted his friend and probably figured that what he did was a lot safer than it felt and then it actually was. Was it guts that made him jump down that first time, or misplaced trust? If it is the former, than good for him; if it's the latter, as I suspect it is, than shame on his friend.
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MikeSaint
Apr 18, 2009, 10:37 PM
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Ah they seemed to have fun. I'm sure the drive home was filled with excitement and beers when they got home.
Is it wrong for me not to care about what they did in the video?
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shockabuku
Apr 18, 2009, 11:35 PM
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MikeSaint wrote: Ah they seemed to have fun. I'm sure the drive home was filled with excitement and beers when they got home. Is it wrong for me not to care about what they did in the video?
Yes! You are such a bad person!
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bill413
Apr 18, 2009, 11:59 PM
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vize, as has been said - look around for a competent mentor/teacher. Outdoor clubs are a good source.
I have a scar from not really understanding what I was doing when I started climbing....I'm sure it's happened to others. When I recovered, I went back to climbing. It's years later, and I still love it.
Rappelling can be fun in its own right, but usually doesn't need the jump starts 
Hope you & your friend learn more about it - and hopefully we'll see you at the cliffs.
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