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hibby11
Nov 27, 2008, 10:45 PM
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When you're climbing as a team of three and one leads one cleans and third is jugging the haul line do you:
A) Put the haul line through the hauling device and back it up with a knot to the anchor?
Or
B) Tie off the haul line with a knot and set up the haul after the 3rd is at the belay?
I'm leaning towards option A because if the pig was really heavy it would be difficult to set it up after the 3rd was at the belay, as the haul line would be weighed down.
Thanks in advance
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iamthewallress
Nov 27, 2008, 11:29 PM
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I'm not a fan of climbing w/ three people ever, so I've never done it on a wall, (actually, I don't do much of that either) but the way I've always heard of it getting done is:
1. The leader fixes the haul line (on a knot) w/ slack (for backing up and b/c jugging a tensioned line is horrifying).
2. Someone jugs the haul line as fast as they can (generally faster than cleaning by far).
3. Someone gets on lead, the haul gets rigged, the person at the anchor lowers the bag, and the person belaying them simultaneously hauls.
4. Bottom person cleans pitch.
(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Nov 27, 2008, 11:31 PM)
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marde
Nov 28, 2008, 1:08 PM
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What I did by now:
first sets up the hauling device pulls in the slack of the haulline
puts a prussik on the load side of the haulline
make sure the load is on the prussik not the hauler
second lowers out the pigs together with the third
second starts cleaning
third jugs haulline
first can short fix or wait for second
third hauls the pigs
first climbs, second belays
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skiclimb
Nov 28, 2008, 5:51 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
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I love doing walls with three people. WIth a slick system and good team you can actually move faster than with just 2 people as you don't have to wait to clean and haul the the last pitch before leading up the next pitch. You also have someone to BS with at the belay during a long aid pitch.
As to your question ... It depends on the situation. I always liked it best if I could tie off the haul-line and that works fine since the next lead is the guy coming up the haul-line and the cleaner is gonna help with the hauling.
However sometimes you need to lower the pigs off the belay or whatever before the third started cleaning the pitch (pendo pitches) and then it was necessary to have the haul-system inplace...
Like anything in wall-climbing you need to be familiar with a lot of options in order to quickly adapt to the many and varied situaions that walls present.
(This post was edited by skiclimb on Nov 28, 2008, 5:57 PM)
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pmyche
Dec 3, 2008, 4:42 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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dingus
Dec 3, 2008, 5:24 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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pmyche wrote: "You ain't Patton." lol And always remember, you're gonna die.
That's very easy to remember on a wall lol!
Great advice in this thread. I wish I could add. I bet ole Pete has a slew of tricks for the 300lb haulbag tricks.
Kate I'm sure can weigh in with both light and fast as well as slow and heavy.
Fish's site contains a wealth of real world experience summed up very nicely. Its a great resource.
DMT
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