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Portaledge in Zion
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garrettweaver


Dec 7, 2008, 3:54 PM
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Portaledge in Zion
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Hey everyone,

I was wondering what big wall routes at Zion have good ledges for bivying and what routes you would need a portaledge to do. Also, what are some routes that can easily be fired off in a day.


krosbakken


Dec 7, 2008, 5:09 PM
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Re: [garrettweaver] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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If you have trouble finding info on rc.com go check out http://mountainproject.com, probably the best site for info on climbs.


iceworm


Dec 7, 2008, 5:14 PM
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Re: [garrettweaver] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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Moonlight buttress can be done in a day / has a good ledge options / or has a ledge for a "cramped" bivy


Partner pbcowboy77


Dec 7, 2008, 10:29 PM
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Re: [garrettweaver] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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No need for bivis in Zion. You can fix and fire everything or do it in a day. Please don't haul on Zion trade routes!!!


tomtom


Dec 9, 2008, 12:00 PM
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Re: [pbcowboy77] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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pbcowboy77 wrote:
No need for bivis in Zion. You can fix and fire everything or do it in a day. Please don't haul on Zion trade routes!!!

Whatever, dude.

Some of us actually *like* wall camping.


lumineferusother


Dec 10, 2008, 1:04 AM
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Re: [tomtom] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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What's wrong with hauling or ledgin in Zion?


scottb


Dec 10, 2008, 8:07 AM
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Re: [lumineferusother] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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This is from the Supertopo Zion page:

supertopo wrote:
Leave No Trace
Sandstone climbing and the desert environment in general is fragile. Here are some guidelines for climbing on sandstone:

- When hiking, stay on approach trails and off the crunchy, black cryptobiotic soil. If there is no clear approach trail, stay in the bottom of river drainages when possible.
- Keep your rack from scraping against the rock.
- While rappelling or belaying, prevent your ropes from carving grooves in the rock. Rappel slings wear out quickly in this environment; be prepared to replace them with rock-colored webbing.
- Pitons destroy sandstone. Most popular aid climbs are done clean.
- Use clean gear whenever possible (except cam hooks which damage the rock) - check to see if your intended route has been climbed clean.
- Avoid hauling if possible. Some of the popular routes are getting scarred with white streaks where haul bags have scraped off the brown surface coloring of the sandstone.
- Free climb as much as possible. Every time gear is weighted it erodes the sandstone a little more. It seems negligible now, but over decades, weighting gear as little as possible will extend the life of Zion's routes.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/zion.html


(This post was edited by scottb on Dec 10, 2008, 8:11 AM)


Partner pbcowboy77


Dec 10, 2008, 4:10 PM
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Re: [tomtom] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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tomtom wrote:
pbcowboy77 wrote:
No need for bivis in Zion. You can fix and fire everything or do it in a day. Please don't haul on Zion trade routes!!!

Whatever, dude.

Some of us actually *like* wall camping.


If you really want to be that dickhead that did his part to destroy a beautiful place and get the rangers so pissed that they ban climbing in the park go ahead and be a self absorbed fuck tard.


Partner pbcowboy77


Dec 10, 2008, 4:11 PM
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Re: [scottb] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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scottb wrote:
This is from the Supertopo Zion page:

supertopo wrote:
Leave No Trace
Sandstone climbing and the desert environment in general is fragile. Here are some guidelines for climbing on sandstone:

- When hiking, stay on approach trails and off the crunchy, black cryptobiotic soil. If there is no clear approach trail, stay in the bottom of river drainages when possible.
- Keep your rack from scraping against the rock.
- While rappelling or belaying, prevent your ropes from carving grooves in the rock. Rappel slings wear out quickly in this environment; be prepared to replace them with rock-colored webbing.
- Pitons destroy sandstone. Most popular aid climbs are done clean.
- Use clean gear whenever possible (except cam hooks which damage the rock) - check to see if your intended route has been climbed clean.
- Avoid hauling if possible. Some of the popular routes are getting scarred with white streaks where haul bags have scraped off the brown surface coloring of the sandstone.
- Free climb as much as possible. Every time gear is weighted it erodes the sandstone a little more. It seems negligible now, but over decades, weighting gear as little as possible will extend the life of Zion's routes.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/zion.html



Thanks Scottb, at least I'm not the only one on this site that cares about the future of Zion, climbing, future climbers and nature...


tomtom


Dec 12, 2008, 1:58 PM
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Re: [pbcowboy77] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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pbcowboy77 wrote:
scottb wrote:
This is from the Supertopo Zion page:

supertopo wrote:
Leave No Trace
Sandstone climbing and the desert environment in general is fragile. Here are some guidelines for climbing on sandstone:

- When hiking, stay on approach trails and off the crunchy, black cryptobiotic soil. If there is no clear approach trail, stay in the bottom of river drainages when possible.
- Keep your rack from scraping against the rock.
- While rappelling or belaying, prevent your ropes from carving grooves in the rock. Rappel slings wear out quickly in this environment; be prepared to replace them with rock-colored webbing.
- Pitons destroy sandstone. Most popular aid climbs are done clean.
- Use clean gear whenever possible (except cam hooks which damage the rock) - check to see if your intended route has been climbed clean.-
- Avoid hauling if possible. Some of the popular routes are getting scarred with white streaks where haul bags have scraped off the brown surface coloring of the sandstone.
- Free climb as much as possible. Every time gear is weighted it erodes the sandstone a little more. It seems negligible now, but over decades, weighting gear as little as possible will extend the life of Zion's routes.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/zion.html

Thanks Scottb, at least I'm not the only one on this site that cares about the future of Zion, climbing, future climbers and nature...

So it's free climb or don't climb?

FYI. When I was there last year, we talked to the rangers before heading up. They didn't tell us not to haul. The solo climber above was on a 3-day trip. The team below on a two day trip. If the rangers had a problem with this, they had opportunities to mention it.


(This post was edited by tomtom on Dec 12, 2008, 2:04 PM)


dangle


Dec 16, 2008, 8:25 PM
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Re: [pbcowboy77] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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You're seriously waiting for the rangers to tell you not to?

By the time they're concerned they'll just ban climbing.
Get ahead of the learning curve or be cursed by those your actions end up denying.
If you don't have your shlt wired at least halfway tight don't hit Zion with anything more than a camera.

This is foolish. I'm going back to the taco.
I have a hard time taking this place even partly seriously.


Partner pbcowboy77


Dec 17, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Re: [tomtom] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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Thanks Ron.

By the way tomtom, look at the profile for dangle and see who agrees with me about this. If you still don't know who he is look at the topos for some of the trade routes in Zion and you'll figure it out.

Get your head out of your ass and think about the future...


If you still think your right, take a trip over to supertopo and ask around there about this and you'll get a real wake up call.


(This post was edited by pbcowboy77 on Dec 19, 2008, 12:13 PM)


garrettweaver


Dec 18, 2008, 6:50 AM
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Re: [pbcowboy77] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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Hey everyone,

Thanks for the great comments. I will definitely go with the fix and fire method on the trade routes. I have a few questions about this method. I heard it was illegal to camp next to the wall. I will only live about 30 mins. from the park. I would probably fix the lines and then go sleep at my house and go back the next day. However, I have also heard about a bus that you need to take to get inside the park. Is this bus story true and if so how would you get a real early 5am start? What would you guys recommend. I figure if you fix and fire a route you need to use all your day light?

Thanks,

Garrett


flamer


Dec 18, 2008, 3:41 PM
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Re: [garrettweaver] Portaledge in Zion [In reply to]
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Garrett,
It all depends on the time of year. "high" season...generally late april through oct....you have to use the shuttle. All other times you can drive yourself into the canyon.
Also you can get permit's to drive yourself other times.
Talk to the folks at the backcountry desk.

josh


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