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sul-pont
Jul 18, 2008, 6:11 PM
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My girlfriend just moved to Central VA (living in Staunton and working in Charlottesville) so, I'll be spending time down there.
I'm wondering if folks could clue me in to the areas around there and what might be in store for me. I prefer sport climbing but also boulder and trad. What are the rocks like and how far away are they?
Thanks.
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zealotnoob
Jul 18, 2008, 6:23 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
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Seneca Rocks - trad
New River Gorge - trad, sport, bouldering
Franklin - sport
Cooper's - bouldering
In order of my favorite to least... All of these are in WV, but should be a reasonable drive from you.
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0x2102
Jul 18, 2008, 6:51 PM
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There's some stuff around C'Ville (bouldering, ice and sport climbing), a few miscellaneous crags on the Blue Ridge Parkway (about 1/2 way between Staunton and C'Ville), and several crags in the Lexington vicinity (probably 45 or so minute drive from Staunton. From Staunton to Seneca (multipitch trad) is about 2-2.5 hour drive, to the New River Gorge from Staunton is about the same.
Feel free to PM me for more info or consult The World's Definitive Source For Route Information
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justroberto
Jul 22, 2008, 1:05 AM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
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Aren't you the world's definitive source on central Virginia chossclimbing?
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easterndivide
Jul 29, 2008, 3:26 AM
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Can you offer any more tips on the sport climbing near Charlottesville? I've been scouring all the information I can find, online or off, and can't find anything that says where it is.
I've seen and heard rumors, but the closest sport climbing I can determine really exists is in Franklin, WV. I've even been hiking around the woods looking where I think the Charlottesville crag might be, but can't find it.
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justroberto
Jul 29, 2008, 3:53 AM
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easterndivide wrote: Can you offer any more tips on the sport climbing near Charlottesville? I've been scouring all the information I can find, online or off, and can't find anything that says where it is. I've seen and heard rumors, but the closest sport climbing I can determine really exists is in Franklin, WV. I've even been hiking around the woods looking where I think the Charlottesville crag might be, but can't find it.
The routes database on this very website explicitly tells how to get to Man Wall, your closest, best bet. Iron Gate, the Trestles, and Wintergreen are all pretty well spelled out, as well, although not as close.
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easterndivide
Jul 29, 2008, 4:09 AM
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Thanks for trying justroberto, but that's not what I'm looking for. I don't need any more pointers to look in the routes database. I've read everything in the routes DB for Virginia, and the details aren't there. Manchester Wall is in Richmond, not Charlottesville.
Several posts, including the earlier one in this thread (the one I replied to) hint that there is actually an area in or around Charlottesville, e.g. closer to CHO than the Blue Ridge Parkway is. I've included that post below to remove ambiguity:
In reply to: There's some stuff around C'Ville (bouldering, ice and sport climbing), a few miscellaneous crags on the Blue Ridge Parkway (about 1/2 way between Staunton and C'Ville), and several crags in the Lexington vicinity (probably 45 or so minute drive from Staunton. From Staunton to Seneca (multipitch trad) is about 2-2.5 hour drive, to the New River Gorge from Staunton is about the same.
Specifically interested in "stuff around C'Ville ... sport climbing". Anybody know?
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0x2102
Jul 29, 2008, 12:44 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2005
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I sent you a PM...
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rockandlice
Dec 15, 2008, 2:29 PM
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I'm a recent transplant as well. Working in C'ville and I have a home in Waynesboro. I'd like to find out about any possible nearby sport routes outside of what may be on this database. I've scouted most everything in close range in the database and have climbed at the other usual suspects (NRG, Frank, Seneca, Iron Gate, Hidden, Old Rag). If there is any solid trad I'm missign nearby, that would be great as well.
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0x2102
Dec 15, 2008, 2:42 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2005
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I've heard good things about a place called Sugar Hollow which is near C'Ville, as far as directions/beta go, I have no clue about it...Blue Ridge Mt. Sports is probably a good source for info though.
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rockandlice
Dec 15, 2008, 6:05 PM
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I'm familiar with sugar hollow just from hiking and fly fishing there. There is definitely some outcroppings all around there, but haven't found anything solid myself. I see if the folks at BRMS have any info. Never really thought to ask them before for some reason.
Thanks!
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0x2102
Dec 15, 2008, 6:06 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2005
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Apparently there are some access issues there, getting beta from the local shop would definitely be a good call.
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rockandlice
Dec 15, 2008, 7:13 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2008
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Ah, good to know. I'll make sure to get the proper 411 before proceeding.
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