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finnishsport
Dec 16, 2008, 8:06 PM
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hello everyone,
i've been wanting to explore some more nc sport routes other than my usual rumbling bald
does anyone know of any good sport routes at stone mountain, nc?
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naitch
Dec 16, 2008, 8:20 PM
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It' almost all "sport" mate, except for a few mixed gear routes and the Great Arch.
Also, if what you mean by "sport" is 15-50 feet between bolts
(This post was edited by naitch on Dec 18, 2008, 2:08 PM)
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finnishsport
Dec 16, 2008, 8:21 PM
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awesome thanks, looks like im in for some fun leads then :)
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justroberto
Dec 16, 2008, 8:23 PM
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finnishsport wrote: hello everyone, i've been wanting to explore some more nc sport routes other than my usual rumbling bald does anyone know of any good sport routes at stone mountain, nc?
I love this question. Your answer lies somewhere in here
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finnishsport
Dec 16, 2008, 8:25 PM
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your link is failing :(
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justroberto
Dec 16, 2008, 8:27 PM
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naitch wrote: It' almost all "sport" mate, except for a few mixed gear routes and the Great Arch. Also, if you what you mean by "sport" is 15-35 feet between bolts 
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justroberto
Dec 16, 2008, 8:29 PM
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Hmm. Just do a search of "Stone Mountain sport climbing." It was a smartass attempt at saying that there is no sport climbing at Stone.
Bolts, yes.
Sport, no.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Dec 16, 2008, 8:31 PM)
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finnishsport
Dec 16, 2008, 8:41 PM
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what kind of rack do you recommend me bringing to stone?
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grimbo
Dec 16, 2008, 9:31 PM
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8-10 quickdraws and a couple of big nuts!
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bozher
Dec 16, 2008, 9:38 PM
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grimbo wrote: 8-10 quickdraws and a couple of big nuts!
With 8-10 quick draws you could hang them on every bolt there! But seriously, I do recommend stone highly. It is a great area. I would probably start out with the pulpit. It is about the most protected climb there and a real joy to do.
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forkliftdaddy
Dec 16, 2008, 9:44 PM
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At the start, Between The Ways feels more like sport climbing than a traditionally bolted slab route. It is run out above the crux, but the crux is nicely protected. And Scimitar is definitely a sport route.
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finnishsport
Dec 16, 2008, 10:09 PM
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thanks a lot bozher and forklift! just what i was looking for!
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justroberto
Dec 16, 2008, 11:10 PM
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If you want to climb easy trad, a standard rack and a handful of draws will get you up No Alternative and The Great Arch. Every once in a while you'll encounter a couple of small cam placements (purple to orange tcu) in a flake on the slabbier routes.
If your profile is up to date and 5.10a sport is your lead limit, you won't be getting on Scimitar. I don't know anything about the other one previously mentioned. If you want to clip some bolts in the sub-10 range, U-Slot, Crystal Lizard, Great White Way, Grand Funk, Yardarm, and Mercury's Lead will be good ones. Expect to find yourself at least 30 to 40 feet out from a bolt on most of these, though.
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thorgon
Dec 17, 2008, 12:47 AM
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Just curious if anyone has done my route to the top? The "Closer to the Heart" route goes to the Yardarm belay and then continues up and right you can get a small tcu (.75 Camalot, I think?) in the small roof then up to two more bolts and a belay! Then it is runout to the top. I wonder if back in the late 90's those upper bolts were replcaed? I know their there because I hand drilled them!
The hand-drilled Red Heads can be replaced by removing the hanger and using a machine grade drill 3/8" to drill out the cone, then screw a capscrew in and pull the anchor with a crowbar then drill deeper and use an expansion bolt combined with some glue to fill the upper void.. Or better yet, put in a new Red Head.. The point is to re-use the same hole! Frankly, they are good bolts and weather proof if you use a SS hanger and capscrew! Their the best hand drill anchors around, but don't know if they still make them? I got to where I could put one in a half hour. But got some killer calf cramps in the process!
Slabheads Rule,
Paul "Thor" Pelot
(This post was edited by thorgon on Dec 17, 2008, 12:54 AM)
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finnishsport
Dec 17, 2008, 3:00 PM
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alright, i guess im bringing my trad gear too then.
do i need to bring two ropes to get down or will one be enough?
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rsmillbern
Dec 17, 2008, 3:11 PM
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finnishsport wrote: alright, i guess im bringing my trad gear too then. do i need to bring two ropes to get down or will one be enough?
You will need two ropes to rap down, but the walkoff is faster unless you want to do multiple routes between the Great Arch and No Alternative.
I would suggest a small rack, TCUs to #3 BD. stoppers... Maybe doubles in the .3 BD to #2 BD depending on what you want to do.
I would recommend the Pulpit as a pretty well protected route. The topo makes it look like it may be hard to stay on route, but if you follow the path of least resistance it is pretty easy.
I'd suggest also, Block Route or U-Slot to the Tree ledge and then the Arch or No Alt. If you want some friction I'd start with Mercery's Lead (first bolt line right of the Arch).
Enjoy, Stone is perfect this time of year. Might be busy get an early start.
When you going?
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csproul
Dec 17, 2008, 3:11 PM
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Two if you expect to rap, but it is just about as fast to walk down if you go to the top. Might be able to get off of the tree ledge with a 70, I'm not sure.
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rsmillbern
Dec 17, 2008, 3:13 PM
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csproul wrote: Two if you expect to rap, but it is just about as fast to walk down if you go to the top. Might be able to get off of the tree ledge with a 70, I'm not sure.
You can if you rap to the anchors on the top of Block Route, but this is not great if it is crowded as it is usually got climbers on it. One 70M will not get you to the ground from the ledge.
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MikeSaint
Dec 17, 2008, 3:49 PM
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There is a user on here: Mazzy (something) and he mentioned a beautiful splitter that will eat #2 C4 cams. Not sure where it is though, and its not quite sport.
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sungam
Dec 17, 2008, 3:53 PM
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The tree at the far bottom right...
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rsmillbern
Dec 17, 2008, 4:12 PM
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MikeSaint wrote: There is a user on here: Mazzy (something) and he mentioned a beautiful splitter that will eat #2 C4 cams. Not sure where it is though, and its not quite sport.
You thinking of Dirty Crack? That is pretty good and protects well also...
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csproul
Dec 17, 2008, 4:28 PM
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If memory serves right, Dirty Crack is all smaller than a #2.
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rsmillbern
Dec 17, 2008, 4:32 PM
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csproul wrote: If memory serves right, Dirty Crack is all smaller than a #2.
Ya, it is wider at the start, but then thins out... P1 or the Arch is the only one I can think of that uses more than one #2 off hand
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finnishsport
Dec 17, 2008, 4:44 PM
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im goin sometime between dec. 19 and jan. 12, whenever weather and schedule of my partners allows. i live in asheville so its pretty much a whenever we want to go thing.
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finnishsport
Dec 17, 2008, 4:47 PM
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also, forgot to ask, what kind of gear do the pulpit, mercury's lead, and the great white way require? distance between bolts doesn't matter, so quit trying to warn my crazy ass haha.
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