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lemurboy
Nov 15, 2002, 10:41 PM
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Hey
I just wanted to tell everyone, that this past weekend I sent my nemisis! Way Up Yonder, at Road Side Crag!
unfortunatly (well depends how you look at it) I took a 30 footer from the anchors!!!!
it was way cool,
I landed below the first bolt!!!
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jdean
Nov 16, 2002, 4:12 PM
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Did you do both pitches or just the first. That first pitch is so steep it has ground potential all the way to the third bolt. Either way, congratulations on the send though. It's a cool route.
M@
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bolder
Nov 18, 2002, 4:52 PM
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If I fell at the anchors I wouldn't call it a send, but that is my opinion. I think that you need to do the line cleanly without any falls, even at the anchors.
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roughster
Nov 24, 2002, 11:01 AM
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bolder:
It is customary at the Red to clip the anchors, then unclip them, pull up some slack, and then launch. Same thing at Rifle on anything pretty much in the Aresonal's main section/
Safe? Heheh I don't know about that, but its definately a rush
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jdean
Nov 25, 2002, 11:47 AM
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Holy crap, if he did that on that climb, they wouldn't be able to dig him out of the crater he would make.
M@
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roughster
Nov 25, 2002, 12:31 PM
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heheh
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bolder
Nov 25, 2002, 3:46 PM
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I know that, I have climbed at Rifle and seen a few CRAZY people do that, but this isn't what I think happened during the mentioned climb here. I interpret that he took a thirty foot whipper BEFORE clipping the anchors. I wouldn't call that a send.
[ This Message was edited by: bolder on 2002-11-25 07:49 ]
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andy_lemon
Nov 25, 2002, 4:14 PM
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The routes are ordered for Roadside Crag:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listSection.php?SectionID=246
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jdean
Nov 25, 2002, 4:28 PM
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I will second that notion Bolder. When I send something, the only time I weight the rope is when I am hanging from the anchors.
M@
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daggerx
Nov 29, 2002, 3:21 AM
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I think this is the last weekend M's is open, but you you want to camp their when he's not open just stop by his house and pay and your welcome to camp.
DAggerX
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lemurboy
Dec 1, 2002, 9:45 PM
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but the way i look at it is that i finished the route...did all the moves, does it really matter how you get down? ie flying through the air or lowering from the anchor.
the point is that i did all the moves on the route!
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gumbobob
Dec 4, 2002, 1:39 AM
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yes, you did all the moves on the route, except for the last ones. clipping the anchors is sometimes the crux on a climb (shut up and climb at cave rock for example) and to fall without clipping them means you didn't send. however, i imagine if the anchors are on some hands-off ledge where you could park a volkswagen and you don't want the rope to run over the edge, it would seem logical to not clip the anchors--of course, it would also seem logical to talk to the first ascentionist about his anchor positioning and why they are far back on a ledge. you fell 30 feet to the first bolt on way over yonder? shouldn't you have fallen farther if you were at the top? or were you just heading to the first anchors?
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redpoint73
Dec 4, 2002, 6:38 PM
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gumbobob,
The Red is NOT like Cave Rock. You usually clip anchors from gigantic bomber holds.
The celebratory whipper is a common ritual, I don't think that he missed the free ascent in doing it. Although it is not recommended. Big impact force on the bolt. Imagine if everyone did it . . .
But I agree, their are CERTAIN routes where you need to clip the anchors. Hell, at Rumny, New Hampshire, there are routes where you have to climb ABOVE the anchor and top-out in order to get full credit. But the guidebook states this clearly.
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bolder
Dec 4, 2002, 9:14 PM
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Redpoint, it wasn't celebratory. He fell BEFORE he could clip the anchors. I would never call that a redpoint even if I did all of the moves. If all you had to do was the moves then why is it considered wrong to grab the anchors before clipping into them?
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redpoint73
Dec 15, 2002, 4:27 PM
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OK, so I misunderstood that he fell (got pumped?), while TRYING to clip the anchor. the other replies certianly made it sound celebratory!
Getting full credit for the climb is going to vary from area to area. Maybe he grabbed the top holds, but did not clip the anchor before falling? Is this a redpoint? I agree, I would have to clip the anchors in order to really call it a redpoint. But some people DO take the intentional whipper without clipping the anchor (of course, they probably feel that they could have/would have had the strength to clip). Its a bit debatable.
Some areas have awesome expensive Quick Clips for anchors. VERY easy to just dump the rope in and take. While others have scary little chains that barely accept the nose of a carabiner. Does that make the "clipping move" harder on one climb than another???
At Rumney, NH, some of the routes actually REQUIRE that you clip the anchors, then climb past them to top out in order to get full credit. Then you have to downclimb or jump off in order to lower. Wouldn't you be PISSED if you thought you sent the route, THEN found out that you didn't really get the full credit? Especially if it was an on-site attempt.
IMHO, the idea of a free ascent is to ascend the rock WITHOUT using the gear. You do all the moves with your body, using the gear and rope only as a backup IN CASE you fall. Chris Sharma skipped clipping bolts when he sent REALIZATION. Does that mean its not a redpoint??? If you ask the establishing parties on some climbs, they will actually tell that doing the clips is PART OF THE RATING! ITS SO CONFUSING!!!!!
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kalcario
Dec 15, 2002, 4:47 PM
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*At Rumney, NH, some of the routes actually REQUIRE that you clip the anchors, then climb past them to top out in order to get full credit. Then you have to downclimb or jump off in order to lower.*
there's no anchor? how do you get your draws back?
There are no ethics in sport climbing, and really only one rule: climb from bottom to top w/out weighting gear. and I've never heard of somebody rating the clips, like "there's a 12c clip" or something
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mattiem
Dec 16, 2002, 6:01 AM
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There is an anchor but the mantle above the anchors must be done for you to get a true redpoint. For example the classic Jolt at the hinterlands has anchors at the top of the rocks but then you must make the mantle to get the redpoint and make the grade solid. Then you downclimb the mantle or jsut take a short whip back onto the anchors and then clean the route as normal. The anchors couldn't be put any higher because you are topping out. This is what Redpoint73 is talking about. There are many routes like this at Rumeny and it is staed in the guidebook when this is the case. Hope that helps.
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