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elcapquestion
Nov 16, 2002, 3:07 PM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2002
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Quick question for yas:
Want to do the New Dawn Wall and I am wondering if someone who has experiance could tell me if the woeml is the better start for this route? Looks like a long string of bolts rivets for 3-4 pitches going left down low. Is the actual New Dawn start (original) more fun, more climbing? Thanks
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wonderbread
Nov 17, 2002, 4:30 AM
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I've done New Dawn to el cap tower and for the most part the climbing was good, except the two wide pitches above lay lady ledge and i believe there was a c2+ flare that still gives me nightmares, but other than that it was good. although i haven't done the wall of early morning light i believe new dawn is suppose to be considered by most to be the better start. Have fun.
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passthepitonspete
Nov 17, 2002, 4:13 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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First of all, like welcome aboard, eh? It's always swell to see someone's first-ever question here in the aid climbing forum.
Now update yer profile so we can 'ave a look at yer.....
[HINT] - try using your real name as this will give you credibility.
I followed New Dawn to get to Lay Lady Ledge when we made our ascent of Reticent Wall.
Paradoxically, New Dawn follows a natural system of cracklines, while Harding's original line [climbed] is very much a ladder of aluminum dowels pounded into holes and with their ends mushroomed. We crossed his ladder on the third pitch of Reticent [above] and it was obvious from the close spacing of the holes that it was drilled by a right-handed hammerer drilling leftwards!
Note: Clipping Harding's dowels was a welcome relief after [trying] clip Gerberding's rivits! [sic] That bastard is so tall, and he drilled 'em right out of his topsteps! These were the days before I used my Russian Aiders, and to clip 'em I had to cheat by girth-hitching a rivet hanger onto a wired stopper and duct taping it to the end of my hammer!
Sheesh.
At any rate, if you are looking for an historical perspective, you might be one of the very few parties who climbs Harding's original route. Most everyone else climbs New Dawn.
Cheers,
Pete and Wee-Wee
[like]real name, and like my real big wall crab, eh?]
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elcapquestion
Nov 17, 2002, 4:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2002
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Pete and Wonderbref - thanks so much for the beta and memories. My info has been updated so that I may be "Credible" although you will have to come to that conclusion for yourself!
"obvious from the close spacing of the holes that it was drilled by a right-handed hammerer drilling leftwards!"
Now you have to just love someone that goes to as much effort as this cat did. What a nut job huh? He sure scoped out and drilled one of the coolest sections of rock on that mother though. Viva la Harding!
So does gith hitching a hanger to a nut count as a form of a cheat stick? hehe - always wondered where the line was drawn but I am NOT being an ass to you. Nice job on a "sic" route eh?
One last question - wondering something about a mini-traxion if you have a minute?!? Is it me or are the teeth sharp as all hell on the thing. Any damage done to you ropes ever with this device? (hauling etc) Thanks for your input. You have made this forum a treat.
[ This Message was edited by: elcapquestion on 2002-11-17 09:15 ]
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russwalling
Nov 17, 2002, 6:40 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2002
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Hi ya,
Why is it that you want to do one of those routes? Have you done Mescalito or Hock-a-lito? I ask because I think the ND/WEML is is P.O.S. Way too many dicey rivet ladders and not much climbing. To each his own, but there *are* better routes available..... don't get me started on Horse Chute!
adios and good luck,
Russ
www.FishProducts.com
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russwalling
Nov 17, 2002, 6:41 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2002
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Hi ya,
Why is it that you want to do one of those routes? Have you done Mescalito or Hock-a-lito? I ask because I think the ND/WEML is is P.O.S. Way too many dicey rivet ladders and not much climbing. To each his own, but there *are* better routes available..... don't get me started on Horse Chute!
adios and good luck,
Russ
www.FishProducts.com
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elcapquestion
Nov 17, 2002, 8:05 PM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2002
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Now I'm a break it down,
just to tell a little story,
straight out the box,
from the climbing category:
Reasons: magical line, beautiful line, I like offwidth, hitting the tower from the other side, the history of it, cause Harding is f---ing cool, cause Porter is f---ing cool, cause it was a bold looking line for its day, cause I want hit the Wino and Lay Lady, and I have looked at that wall for a few years now. I know Hockey ro Mesc look cool and probably get done more often but then again - isn't that where the adventure lies? Doing something your not sure of anyway and seeing what happens. Have to stick to my guns on this one but thanks Russ. Only routes I have done are the 3D, Nose, and Eagles Way. Cannot wait to do something in this area and it looks like its well within my ability.
[ This Message was edited by: elcapquestion on 2002-11-17 12:06 ]
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passthepitonspete
Nov 17, 2002, 9:32 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
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Matt,
You are indeed as credible as you are recognizable.
And you are choosing this route for all the right reasons.
And hell, yeah - I was cheating on Reticent!
Sheesh.
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