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dr_feelgood


Jan 1, 2009, 7:31 AM
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Best Ice Screw Roll
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So black diamond's orange screw roll up sucks on my left nut, even after I modified it. Any suggestions for a better screw carrier that can hold an entire rack of screws without being shitty?


anykineclimb


Jan 1, 2009, 2:13 PM
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I have two of the BDs but don't care for the buckle setup.
I like OR's (http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/screw_wrap.html )but have never actually used it.
I think they're all pretty much the same though. I mean, how many ways can you store screws?

whats your biggest gripe with the BD?


dr_feelgood


Jan 1, 2009, 2:55 PM
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anykineclimb wrote:
I have two of the BDs but don't care for the buckle setup.
I like OR's (http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/screw_wrap.html )but have never actually used it.
I think they're all pretty much the same though. I mean, how many ways can you store screws?

whats your biggest gripe with the BD?

It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right.


gunkiemike


Jan 1, 2009, 5:02 PM
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How many screws in your rack? And do you want heavy, canvas-type material (makes for a bulkier bundle) or something lighter?


Partner angry


Jan 1, 2009, 5:29 PM
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I carry 12 with a single orange roll. If you carry 6 they all fall out, if you carry 12 (2 per hole, each side plugged, orange caps overlapping) then it stays in pretty nicely.

I haven't found anything in ice climbing that packs right though. Screws, crampons, tools, thermos. They all suck to put in the bag.


reno


Jan 1, 2009, 5:45 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
anykineclimb wrote:
whats your biggest gripe with the BD?

It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right.

What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.)

I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack.


dr_feelgood


Jan 1, 2009, 6:07 PM
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angry wrote:
I carry 12 with a single orange roll. If you carry 6 they all fall out, if you carry 12 (2 per hole, each side plugged, orange caps overlapping) then it stays in pretty nicely.

I haven't found anything in ice climbing that packs right though. Screws, crampons, tools, thermos. They all suck to put in the bag.

Yup. I'm rolling each slot with two, but they are a pain to put in and pull out. (that's what she said).
I might have to try the crampon pouch.


anykineclimb


Jan 1, 2009, 10:25 PM
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I guess I've just gotten used to using the rolls. I'll put them in the pack, flat, with the handles towards each other, if that makes any sense.
Like that = L7
great band BTW


vterinme


Jan 2, 2009, 4:10 AM
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Those ice rolls or any manufactured holder for screws are pretty much gimmicks. I guess they'd be fine for cragging, but they're bulky and expensive. I've always just bought a bag or pouch with heavier weight nylon. They're lighter, more compressible, and access to your screws is just simple (pull draw cord open).


swaghole


Jan 2, 2009, 6:00 AM
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reno wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
anykineclimb wrote:
whats your biggest gripe with the BD?

It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right.

What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.)

I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack.

I had a question about carrying the screws loose. Don't they the thread get damaged when they bang against each other? I have some old hand-me-down Smileys that were stored this way and the thread are a little banged up (small nicks all over the shaft on the edge of the threads). The scews are a little harder to place because they have more restistance. I still use these screws - I usually lend them to my partners :)


reno


Jan 2, 2009, 6:54 AM
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swaghole wrote:
I had a question about carrying the screws loose. Don't they the thread get damaged when they bang against each other? I have some old hand-me-down Smileys that were stored this way and the thread are a little banged up (small nicks all over the shaft on the edge of the threads).

Good question, and something I hadn't thought of. I suppose it'd be a function of how roughly the screws are banged against each other, the hardness/softness of the metal, and repetition over time. Maybe use a pair of spare gloves to pad things in a bit?

I had some of those blue mesh sleeves that fit over my screws and haven't noticed any nicks or dings on the threads. Then, too, my ice screws spend the majority of their time in my gear bin, sadly. Mad

A friend/ice partner of mine has one of THESE THINGS and it seems to work well for him. Another option, perhaps.


swaghole


Jan 2, 2009, 7:05 AM
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Funny thing - the Smileys seem to bear the brunt of the nicks while the older BDs are in great condition.


error


Jan 2, 2009, 10:50 AM
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The cheapest way to protect threads is a piece of bike tube. Slide it on, put the cap, throw the thing in the crampon bag. Done.

A heavyweight Durex will do just as well, if you want to go fancy


flying_dutchman


Jan 3, 2009, 11:59 AM
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the orange roll does it's job just fine IMO. 6 screws in the 6 holes plus 3 more wrapped up inside ~ carries my rack fine. After all, it only has to get my screws to the crag and back home again without damage. Wrapping screws in a towel also works but that's bulkier.

As long as the screw teeth are protected and stay sharp, it's all good. The threads are secondary and a hella lot more durable.


darkside


Jan 3, 2009, 2:06 PM
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error wrote:
A heavyweight Durex will do just as well, if you want to go fancy
Erm... might not want to use that Durex for it's original purpose afterwards Shocked

I have two roll ups. The orange BD holder and the Anker Climbing Equipment holder. I find both work OK but agree the BD buckle could be better. The ACE holder has a kind of hood that wraps over the screw hangers although I don't really have a problem with screws slipping out. One thing to watch with the BD holder is that you slide the screws in from the end nearest the webbing belt. From the opposite end, the webbing won't wrap around stubbies to hold them.
You can see the ACE holder and where I got it here. Incidentally ACE is now owned by BD I believe.

I find it handy to be able to split my screws into two holders sometimes, and also a little less bulky when packing than one big roll.

I started using a pouch to pack my screws in but yes they get dinged a little and while using the mesh sleeves and tip protectors eliminates those problems, it's a hassle. I much prefer the roll ups.


chossmonkey


Jan 4, 2009, 1:32 PM
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Its not the roll, it the roller!!!!!Tongue



I can't honestly say I really have any problems with my BD rolls. I put the longest screws to the outside one screw per slot unless it is a 13 and a 10 and alternate up and down for the long screws. Make sure you roll it tight and then get the buckle tight. It was a little tough at first but it works fine now.

I have one normal roll and one that came with the big toolbox suitcase thing. The one from the tool box holds a lot more screws and has a flap on one side. The flap kinda gets in the way. YMMV

You could try taking your mom's sewing machine and making your own.


brownie710


Jan 4, 2009, 2:15 PM
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I use Lowe Alpine heavy duty corudra extra pockets backpacks for my points, it's huge and has beefy straps to secure it to your pack. Maybe give this a try instead of spending the loot on the crampon bag, they are cheaper


tomtom


Jan 5, 2009, 12:56 PM
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anykineclimb wrote:
I like OR's (http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/screw_wrap.html )but have never actually used it.
I use this one and it works pretty well. I want to avoid getting nicks on screw threads or teeth and putting on the caps and fishnets with frozen fingers sucks.

YMMV.


the_climber


Jan 5, 2009, 1:38 PM
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Can't really say I've ever had a problem with any of the ice screw rolls I've tried.
Put screws in roll, roll up, put in pack.


If you are really worried about it and don't want to spend much money, get a strip of lightweight nylon (ripstop/siltarp/doesn't matter) about 30-35cm wide by 75cm (less/more if you want). Fold the edges down 1cm, then 1cm again (tripples the fabric on the edges) then Sew the edges. Take an extra patch of the material, some flat webbing (1/2" works great), a small plastic D-ring, and some velcro; sew to one end with webbing on one side and patch on the other making sure to sew in the D-ring. Sew Velcro to Webbing.
Wrap one screw at a time from end opposite webbing, wrap with webbing, toss in pack. carries 1 screw, 3 screws, or 18 screws.


It works, but then again so do the others.

Whatever one you use make sure it's a colour that shows up easily in the snow.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Jan 5, 2009, 1:40 PM)


Partner brent_e


Jan 7, 2009, 3:17 PM
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Re: [reno] Best Ice Screw Roll [In reply to]
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reno wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
anykineclimb wrote:
whats your biggest gripe with the BD?

It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right.

What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.)

I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack.

while leaving grivel screws to hit each other in your pack isn't such a bad idea as they don't have sharp threads, leaving BD screws nicks the hell out of them.

if you find a better Roll, Doc, let us know. other wise put the screws on top of your puffy in your pack and they will lay better.


retro


Jan 30, 2009, 7:17 AM
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Re: [brent_e] Best Ice Screw Roll [In reply to]
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Check out the ACE by Anker CLimbing Equipment:
Pricey but nice!

http://www.mountainmagic.com/.../ace-screwholder.htm


(This post was edited by retro on Jan 30, 2009, 7:18 AM)


shoo


Jan 30, 2009, 7:25 AM
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Is it just me, or is 6 screws really not enough? Why is everyone and their mother making screw rolls for 6?

My usual ice rack has 9 screws on it: 8 for regular placements, and the 9th is a super long keeper for v-threads. I've only had a couple of pitches in which I haven't used all 8 of the regulars.


the_climber


Jan 30, 2009, 9:09 AM
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shoo wrote:
Is it just me, or is 6 screws really not enough? Why is everyone and their mother making screw rolls for 6?

My usual ice rack has 9 screws on it: 8 for regular placements, and the 9th is a super long keeper for v-threads. I've only had a couple of pitches in which I haven't used all 8 of the regulars.
It depends.

Short single pitch ice craging I rarely bring more than 6 screws. The exception to that is if the craging involves WI4 over 20m, in which case I'll likely take 8 or 9 screws.

For multipitch ice that isn't a rambling canyon I'll take 10 to 12 screws. 2 standard Ice Screw rolls.

The BD's and others may only have 6 slots, but it is very easy to carry 12 screws in one.


gunkiemike


Feb 2, 2009, 2:09 PM
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Scrap of nylon + 10 minutes sewing:




Partner cliffhanger9
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Feb 2, 2009, 8:38 PM
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anyone got one of these?

http://www.bdel.com/gear/ice_box.php

looks like a nice idea, no? keep all that awkward stuff packed together in one place.

expensive. but what do you think of the concept?

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