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dr_feelgood
Jan 1, 2009, 3:31 PM
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So black diamond's orange screw roll up sucks on my left nut, even after I modified it. Any suggestions for a better screw carrier that can hold an entire rack of screws without being shitty?
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anykineclimb
Jan 1, 2009, 10:13 PM
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I have two of the BDs but don't care for the buckle setup. I like OR's (http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/screw_wrap.html )but have never actually used it. I think they're all pretty much the same though. I mean, how many ways can you store screws? whats your biggest gripe with the BD?
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dr_feelgood
Jan 1, 2009, 10:55 PM
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anykineclimb wrote: I have two of the BDs but don't care for the buckle setup. I like OR's ( http://www.outdoorresearch.com/site/screw_wrap.html )but have never actually used it. I think they're all pretty much the same though. I mean, how many ways can you store screws? whats your biggest gripe with the BD? It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right.
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gunkiemike
Jan 2, 2009, 1:02 AM
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How many screws in your rack? And do you want heavy, canvas-type material (makes for a bulkier bundle) or something lighter?
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angry
Jan 2, 2009, 1:29 AM
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I carry 12 with a single orange roll. If you carry 6 they all fall out, if you carry 12 (2 per hole, each side plugged, orange caps overlapping) then it stays in pretty nicely. I haven't found anything in ice climbing that packs right though. Screws, crampons, tools, thermos. They all suck to put in the bag.
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reno
Jan 2, 2009, 1:45 AM
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dr_feelgood wrote: anykineclimb wrote: whats your biggest gripe with the BD? It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right. What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.) I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack.
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dr_feelgood
Jan 2, 2009, 2:07 AM
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angry wrote: I carry 12 with a single orange roll. If you carry 6 they all fall out, if you carry 12 (2 per hole, each side plugged, orange caps overlapping) then it stays in pretty nicely. I haven't found anything in ice climbing that packs right though. Screws, crampons, tools, thermos. They all suck to put in the bag. Yup. I'm rolling each slot with two, but they are a pain to put in and pull out. (that's what she said). I might have to try the crampon pouch.
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anykineclimb
Jan 2, 2009, 6:25 AM
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I guess I've just gotten used to using the rolls. I'll put them in the pack, flat, with the handles towards each other, if that makes any sense. Like that = L7 great band BTW
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vterinme
Jan 2, 2009, 12:10 PM
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Those ice rolls or any manufactured holder for screws are pretty much gimmicks. I guess they'd be fine for cragging, but they're bulky and expensive. I've always just bought a bag or pouch with heavier weight nylon. They're lighter, more compressible, and access to your screws is just simple (pull draw cord open).
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swaghole
Jan 2, 2009, 2:00 PM
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reno wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: anykineclimb wrote: whats your biggest gripe with the BD? It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right. What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.) I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack. I had a question about carrying the screws loose. Don't they the thread get damaged when they bang against each other? I have some old hand-me-down Smileys that were stored this way and the thread are a little banged up (small nicks all over the shaft on the edge of the threads). The scews are a little harder to place because they have more restistance. I still use these screws - I usually lend them to my partners :)
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reno
Jan 2, 2009, 2:54 PM
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swaghole wrote: I had a question about carrying the screws loose. Don't they the thread get damaged when they bang against each other? I have some old hand-me-down Smileys that were stored this way and the thread are a little banged up (small nicks all over the shaft on the edge of the threads). Good question, and something I hadn't thought of. I suppose it'd be a function of how roughly the screws are banged against each other, the hardness/softness of the metal, and repetition over time. Maybe use a pair of spare gloves to pad things in a bit? I had some of those blue mesh sleeves that fit over my screws and haven't noticed any nicks or dings on the threads. Then, too, my ice screws spend the majority of their time in my gear bin, sadly. A friend/ice partner of mine has one of THESE THINGS and it seems to work well for him. Another option, perhaps.
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swaghole
Jan 2, 2009, 3:05 PM
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Funny thing - the Smileys seem to bear the brunt of the nicks while the older BDs are in great condition.
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error
Jan 2, 2009, 6:50 PM
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The cheapest way to protect threads is a piece of bike tube. Slide it on, put the cap, throw the thing in the crampon bag. Done. A heavyweight Durex will do just as well, if you want to go fancy
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flying_dutchman
Jan 3, 2009, 7:59 PM
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the orange roll does it's job just fine IMO. 6 screws in the 6 holes plus 3 more wrapped up inside ~ carries my rack fine. After all, it only has to get my screws to the crag and back home again without damage. Wrapping screws in a towel also works but that's bulkier. As long as the screw teeth are protected and stay sharp, it's all good. The threads are secondary and a hella lot more durable.
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chossmonkey
Jan 4, 2009, 9:32 PM
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Its not the roll, it the roller!!!!! I can't honestly say I really have any problems with my BD rolls. I put the longest screws to the outside one screw per slot unless it is a 13 and a 10 and alternate up and down for the long screws. Make sure you roll it tight and then get the buckle tight. It was a little tough at first but it works fine now. I have one normal roll and one that came with the big toolbox suitcase thing. The one from the tool box holds a lot more screws and has a flap on one side. The flap kinda gets in the way. YMMV You could try taking your mom's sewing machine and making your own.
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brownie710
Jan 4, 2009, 10:15 PM
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I use Lowe Alpine heavy duty corudra extra pockets backpacks for my points, it's huge and has beefy straps to secure it to your pack. Maybe give this a try instead of spending the loot on the crampon bag, they are cheaper
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tomtom
Jan 5, 2009, 8:56 PM
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I use this one and it works pretty well. I want to avoid getting nicks on screw threads or teeth and putting on the caps and fishnets with frozen fingers sucks. YMMV.
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the_climber
Jan 5, 2009, 9:38 PM
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Can't really say I've ever had a problem with any of the ice screw rolls I've tried. Put screws in roll, roll up, put in pack. If you are really worried about it and don't want to spend much money, get a strip of lightweight nylon (ripstop/siltarp/doesn't matter) about 30-35cm wide by 75cm (less/more if you want). Fold the edges down 1cm, then 1cm again (tripples the fabric on the edges) then Sew the edges. Take an extra patch of the material, some flat webbing (1/2" works great), a small plastic D-ring, and some velcro; sew to one end with webbing on one side and patch on the other making sure to sew in the D-ring. Sew Velcro to Webbing. Wrap one screw at a time from end opposite webbing, wrap with webbing, toss in pack. carries 1 screw, 3 screws, or 18 screws. It works, but then again so do the others. Whatever one you use make sure it's a colour that shows up easily in the snow.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jan 5, 2009, 9:40 PM)
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brent_e
Jan 7, 2009, 11:17 PM
Post #20 of 34
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reno wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: anykineclimb wrote: whats your biggest gripe with the BD? It's only meant to store 6 screws, and the handles stick out. The buckle sucks, and it doesn't seem to roll right. What kind of screws are you using? I don't have a screw roll, and just carry mine on a couple spare biners (three screws to a biner, and I use Grivel Helix screws.) I suppose you could use a crampon bag, like this one. Put all your screws in there, laying flat, and toss the whole thing in the bottom of the pack. while leaving grivel screws to hit each other in your pack isn't such a bad idea as they don't have sharp threads, leaving BD screws nicks the hell out of them. if you find a better Roll, Doc, let us know. other wise put the screws on top of your puffy in your pack and they will lay better.
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shoo
Jan 30, 2009, 3:25 PM
Post #22 of 34
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Is it just me, or is 6 screws really not enough? Why is everyone and their mother making screw rolls for 6? My usual ice rack has 9 screws on it: 8 for regular placements, and the 9th is a super long keeper for v-threads. I've only had a couple of pitches in which I haven't used all 8 of the regulars.
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the_climber
Jan 30, 2009, 5:09 PM
Post #23 of 34
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shoo wrote: Is it just me, or is 6 screws really not enough? Why is everyone and their mother making screw rolls for 6? My usual ice rack has 9 screws on it: 8 for regular placements, and the 9th is a super long keeper for v-threads. I've only had a couple of pitches in which I haven't used all 8 of the regulars. It depends. Short single pitch ice craging I rarely bring more than 6 screws. The exception to that is if the craging involves WI4 over 20m, in which case I'll likely take 8 or 9 screws. For multipitch ice that isn't a rambling canyon I'll take 10 to 12 screws. 2 standard Ice Screw rolls. The BD's and others may only have 6 slots, but it is very easy to carry 12 screws in one.
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gunkiemike
Feb 2, 2009, 10:09 PM
Post #24 of 34
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Scrap of nylon + 10 minutes sewing:
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cliffhanger9
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Feb 3, 2009, 4:38 AM
Post #25 of 34
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anyone got one of these? http://www.bdel.com/gear/ice_box.php looks like a nice idea, no? keep all that awkward stuff packed together in one place. expensive. but what do you think of the concept?
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