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Banta
Jan 13, 2009, 5:14 PM
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When I first started climbing I started out on top rope then quickly moved to bouldering and have been purely bouldering for the last year or so. I have been getting bored with bouldering recently and have been doing more sport and far less bouldering and I have noticed my strength/power has diminished quite noticeably and I don't like it one bit.
Are there ways to balance sport and bouldering and get the best of both worlds -- the endurance and strength?
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rhythm164
Jan 13, 2009, 5:17 PM
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uuuuuh, do both?
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Banta
Jan 13, 2009, 5:25 PM
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So far for me doing both has resulted in mediocre performance of both. But if I specificaly train one discipline I see much greater results.
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rockforlife
Jan 13, 2009, 5:27 PM
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Banta wrote: So far for me doing both has resulted in mediocre performance of both. But if I specificaly train one discipline I see much greater results.
Yes
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petsfed
Jan 13, 2009, 5:29 PM
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Look for routes that are similar in character to the problems you enjoy doing.
So, steep and powerful.
Chances are, the routes you've been doing are less power intensive, so you're simply not using all that power you've built up.
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norskagent
Jan 13, 2009, 5:29 PM
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climb harder sport.
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curt
Jan 25, 2009, 4:03 AM
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Climb trad--and boulder. Sport climbing is neither. 
Curt
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rhythm164
Jan 25, 2009, 4:21 AM
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hmm, interesting, I find doing both has complimented my bouldering as well as roping up, and both have improved. Maybe you just need to find some effective training excersies. Check out the Self Coached Climber, lots of good stuff in there, both to improve bouldering and longer routes.
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mikeboomer12
Jan 25, 2009, 5:47 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2007
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Overhanging sport and sustained climbs at your peak should help...
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chossmonkey
Jan 25, 2009, 1:05 PM
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Banta wrote: Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer
BTW, bouldering is just practice for real climbing. Don't get too upset.
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Azure
Jan 25, 2009, 1:19 PM
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Registered: Mar 17, 2007
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norskagent wrote: climb harder sport.
I second this statement.
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