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Jugging on half ropes?
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apoorva


Jan 16, 2009, 4:56 AM
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Jugging on half ropes?
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I spent some time searching the forums but didn't get a clear answer on this one - What's SOP on jugging up half ropes? Does one just jug up one of the two ropes, or is there something really techy here that I haven't been able to figure out? Thanks.


altelis


Jan 16, 2009, 6:35 AM
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Re: [apoorva] Jugging on half ropes? [In reply to]
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yea- spend a lot of time on the ground controlling your anal sphincter!!!!!!


Cool


skiclimb


Jan 16, 2009, 8:45 AM
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Re: [apoorva] Jugging on half ropes? [In reply to]
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yep just jug up ...nothing special just more stretch.


troutboy


Jan 16, 2009, 9:09 AM
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Re: [skiclimb] Jugging on half ropes? [In reply to]
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skiclimb wrote:
yep just jug up ...nothing special just more stretch.

With the caveat that any abrasion points are even more of an issue than with thicker ropes.

TS


ptlong


Jan 16, 2009, 9:45 AM
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Re: [apoorva] Jugging on half ropes? [In reply to]
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apoorva wrote:
Does one just jug up one of the two ropes...?

What, are you expecting to have two half ropes hanging down? If so have your partner belay you with the other. If they're both fixed jug on one and tie back up knots on the other.

Everytime I've had to ascend a half rope it's been the only line there. It feels kind of sketchy but it's not John Harlin II territory.

Don't bounce.


apoorva


Jan 19, 2009, 9:30 AM
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Re: [ptlong] Jugging on half ropes? [In reply to]
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thanks guys. kind of what i figured. The stretch, and, umm, thinness is a bit freaky.

the question was for both situations - when it's just two of us, on trad or alpine, using double ropes (for all its advantages); or in a team of three.

So while alpine climbing hard stuff, in a team of three, there's going to be no backup while jugging, eh?


chitlinsconcarne


Jan 20, 2009, 11:50 AM
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Re: [apoorva] Jugging on half ropes? [In reply to]
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For groups of 3, the 2nd can back up on the other rope if they feel the need. Have the 2nd trail a static line to fix for #3 so that the leader can be moving up, not waiting for the 3rd to get to the belay.


Mescalito345


Apr 19, 2009, 8:48 AM
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Re: [chitlinsconcarne] Jugging on half ropes? [In reply to]
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I'm new to trad climbing, and have followed a few 5.6 and 5.7 routes, using half ropes. If I have trouble climbing a short section, can I attach an ascender to one of the half ropes, with a sling attached to my belay loop?

As I ascend, slack will be created in one rope, but it seems like there would be no slack in the other rope, since I would be belayed from above by the lead climber.


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