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Solo aid climbing (clove hitch method)
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Lilallan


Jan 16, 2009, 10:46 AM
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Solo aid climbing (clove hitch method)
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Ok, i am just wondering... so i started climbing solo aid small routes with good protections.... i am just trying to figure out the whole puzzle of aid climbing solo.... Now, the clove hitch method and anchor at the bottom, progression has been dialed pretty good... where i am starting to have difficulties arranging my stuff is carrying the rope along on the route to prevent any sort of problems. Ive been told by many that on long route its preferable to carry your rope on loops tied to you with the nearest loop tied into your harness bridge. This works as a backup... ok great... but...

My questions:

How do you rack your rope on you?

I tend to have a close loop clipped into my bridge and the rest of the loop all clipped into the back of my harness loops in order. Each loop knot (figure 8) has is own biner to make it simple. Ive been tying so far 3 meters loop (twice my size).

Since i have 3 meters loop sometimes i will add a figure eight in the middle of the loop to make my back line shorter....

Should i tie shorter loops?

I figure its easier to unstuck a rope tied to me that hanging 2 meters below me than a rope all stacked at the bottom somehow stuck in a root or whatsoever....

Any other advice? :P

Dont worry btw, i am all experiencing that small with a back up rope that i follow with a prussik!

I know that while learning a complex system (well its complex to my trad climber eyes), can sometimes end up in weird mash up and taggles .... so i love my back up line so far :P Help me concentrate on learning the assembling of that big puzzle thats called solo aid


Lilallan


Jan 17, 2009, 8:30 AM
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Re: [Lilallan] Solo aid climbing (clove hitch method) [In reply to]
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Ok! I found a little bit more information

In reply to:
If someone could give me the basic solo aid system using the clove hitch method, that would help me out

Basically, the system is this:

1. Place an anchor at the base of the pitch to handle an upwards pull.

2. From the anchor, pull up a little slack & attach to your harness with a clove hitch on a large locking biner.

3. Pull up some more slack & attach to your harness with a figure eight and another locking biner (back-up knot).

4. Place a piece in the rock & aid up to waist level.

5. Clip rope to piece, making sure that the piece is between your clove hitch connection & the anchor.

6. Repeat steps 4 & 5, feeding out more rope from the clove hitch as you gain altitude. Tie back-up knots every 15 feet or so (or whatever makes you comfortable) to catch you just in case the clove hitch fails.

7. Once at the top, fix the lead line to the top anchor.

8. To clean the pitch, you can either do it on rappel or rap the haul line & clean it as you normally would if you were seconding the pitch.

If you are hauling, you'll probably have to do a mini-haul to release the bag from the bottom anchor (loop a bight of rope through a biner a little higher up, haul the weight of the bag off the anchor, unclip the bag from the anchor, and then slowly lower the weight of the bag back onto the haul line).

There are quicker methods for solo hauling (i.e. fifi hook & prussick method), but they are more dangerous...I would stick to the slower, safer way for now.

There's nothing wrong with using the clove hitch method, people have been doing it for years. Just remember the logic...the rope runs from a bottom anchor, through your protection, to your clove hitch tie-in (a clove hitch is used because it allows you to feed rope easily as you move up with out having to untie). Remember to ALWAYS USE A BACK-UP KNOT.

So this description leaves the free end loose but still uses backup figure eight knots....

So i guess if manage to carry all my rope on myself with 10 to 15 feet loops, all my knots are already there, i just have to move the right loop when its time to the front of my harness to backup myself...

Ive also simulated a little more in the stairs at my place and figured i could also use an extra biner and tie an extra figure eight in the middle of the loop if i dont feel confortable enought with the amount of slack between my main belay and this backup knot


Lilallan


Jan 17, 2009, 8:32 AM
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Re: [Lilallan] Solo aid climbing (clove hitch method) [In reply to]
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I have no clue why i am having so much fun discoverting Aid climbing... my girlfriend thinks i am crazy when she sees all the stuff i have attached to me lol

But i guess i love puzzles, i am a well organised person, and i guess, being organised is a must if you wanna solo aid efficently and safely.


chitlinsconcarne


Jan 17, 2009, 8:50 AM
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Re: [Lilallan] Solo aid climbing (clove hitch method) [In reply to]
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I never did like having the lead rope hanging off of me and I quickly moved from the clove hitch to a soloaid when they became available. For long steep pitches I started keeping the free end of the lead rope in a rope bucket on a light 40' tag line and fifi'ed onto a lower piece- then would periodically haul the bucket up and hang it on a higher piece.
There's probably a better way, but I was operating pretty far out of the mainstream in my solo wall climbing years, so a lot of what I figured out was what worked for me.


Lilallan


Jan 17, 2009, 9:39 AM
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Re: [chitlinsconcarne] Solo aid climbing (clove hitch method) [In reply to]
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Bucket seems like a way also, witht ht eprussik fifi hook thing to haul it freely...

i found more info on the rope carrying method

http://www.supertopo.com/...85775&msg=688364


(This post was edited by Lilallan on Jan 17, 2009, 10:12 AM)


moose_droppings


Jan 17, 2009, 11:38 AM
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Re: [Lilallan] Solo aid climbing (clove hitch method) [In reply to]
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I use a soloist with backup knots. I'll rebelay the rope a couple times per pitch to keep the slack out below. I've always kept the rope flaked out in a pack at the bottom of the pitch and have yet to ever have a snag below me (keep a knot in the end). There is a bit of rope drag pulling thru the soloist towards the middle part of the pitch but doesn't bother me while aiding roped solo.. The rope drag is a bit much when free climbing roped solo though. Some prefer to keep the pack on their back, I just don't like it that way, personal preference.

Clove hitches work fine and are used by a lot of folks. In time you'll probably move towards a device (grigri, soloaid, soloist, eddy or whatever) of some sort for roped soloing be it aid or free climbing. Most do.

spelin edit
Blush


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jan 17, 2009, 11:41 AM)


jmvc


Jan 19, 2009, 6:42 AM
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Re: [Lilallan] Solo aid climbing (clove hitch method) [In reply to]
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I like carrying the rope flaked in a backpack.


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