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apeface
Jan 20, 2009, 1:11 PM
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Registered: Jan 20, 2009
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Now then
Been looking at getting some rock climbing shoesies
Can pretty much see that these two fit the kinda bill that I'm looking at (suitable for bouldering and sport climbing, but not so uncomfortable that they need taking off every 10 minutes)
Just wondering if any of you guys have used these and what the true pros and cons are to them?
Also if you've got any advice on fit that'd be top
onelove
apeface
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nthusiastj
Jan 20, 2009, 2:24 PM
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Feroce!
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obie2002
Jan 20, 2009, 2:45 PM
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I tried on the Pontas and the Optimus Prime. Personally I found the Prime to be more suitable to what your looking for (they can edge on anything). Because of the down turned toe, definately get atleast a half size larger. I wear a 9 in the defy's i have but a 9.5 in the prime. I tried on the 10 and it fit well and was quite comfortable but i was looking for something a little bit tighter. One of the guys at my gym has both the pontas and prime and he prefers to use the prime on the more difficult routes because he feels it edges better.
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QSNelson
Jan 20, 2009, 5:43 PM
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apeface wrote: Now then Been looking at getting some rock climbing shoesies Can pretty much see that these two fit the kinda bill that I'm looking at (suitable for bouldering and sport climbing, but not so uncomfortable that they need taking off every 10 minutes) Just wondering if any of you guys have used these and what the true pros and cons are to them? Also if you've got any advice on fit that'd be top onelove apeface
I can't speak for everyone but the boosters have a hellish break in period. I wear a 42-42.5 street shoe and I got the boosters in a 41 and the first weak of climbing they were tear jerkers. That being said after about 2weeks of climbing they have broken a decent amount but the to rubber that covers most of the toe keeps the toe box from strectching alot.
I'm loving how aggressive the shoe is, forget about any kind of smearing until they are throughly wore in. The overall construction of the shoe is top notch as to be expected. The heel is nice and deep although there is some digging into the achilies a bit. Overall I'd say a great shoe for vertical with smaller footing to roof climbing. I do have another pair of shoes I use for most vertical climbing simply because of how aggressive the booster is and the fact that its not something I would climb in all day, more then 10mins at a time yes but not for long routes and not something I would belay or walk around the gym in. Perhaps size only a size or half size down my help in comfort.
my 2cents.
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Carnage
Jan 21, 2009, 3:53 AM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
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pontas are nice, they are my main shoe (mostly sport). as per the person who recommended the optimus primes, make sure you can try em on first. i couldnt find a size that i could climb in. the pontas however, feel like the fit me like a glove.
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getout87
Jan 21, 2009, 4:19 AM
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I also like the pontas. Ive been climbing on them for quite a while now, and I really like them. They fit me fairy well, and they haven't let me down yet.
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ghisino
Jan 21, 2009, 10:03 AM
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I never had Pontas but they look like a very "ordinary" good shoe...same concept as katanas, anasazi velcros, etc.
I've had Boosters though.
Very peculiar feeling and shape. It pulls your toes in an extremely scrunched position, like no other climbing shoe on the planet
Result : you have a great edging power/precision and great "pulling" ability in a shoe that is overall very soft, so it is also extremely sensitive and smears well for the downturned shape.
Once you are used to them they are very versatile and perform unexpectedly well even where you wouldn't suspect : slabs for instance.
If the only criterion for a climbing shoe was the performance of the front part on single moves, almost no shoe would beat this one (for me)
This is the nice part.
Cons :
a)Very bad heel, unless maybe your foot is really on the fat side in that area. If really there is no other solution than using a heel on that move, this shoe sucks.
a) the extreme shape is painful after a while. Expecially if climbed through...a long vertical sport pitch in warm conditions can be a nightmare.
c) the shoe works because it forces your foot in a very powerful position, but offers minimal support. It helps your muscles work, but does not do the work for them...
This means that unless you have extremely strong trained feet, on slabs and vertical stuff with demanding footwork they will start to be really tired after some 15-20 meters. You would like to have an even softer shoe for the gym, so you can "train" this in a way...
d) Lorica is a great material but wears out very fast against the rock, so you might have to put some rubber patches here and there before you get holes...basically the front part should be all rubber like a 5.10 jet7.
e) Minimal support+fat slightly rounded shape=not the best shoe on the planet for front-pointing in small pockets (two-finger size)
sizing...if you know la sportiva's, get 1 number more than a testarossa.
Myself 43 street 40.5 booster.
hope this helps your choice!
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Alex.P
Jan 23, 2009, 5:37 AM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2009
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I had a pair of boosters for a week but i found that the extreme down turned toe gave me foot cramps even at times when i was on the wall so i brought them back. Definatly a shoe made for a specific fit.
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