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RyanW2050
Jan 18, 2009, 9:04 PM
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While working on a vertical Dyno near my limit, sometimes i make it and sometimes i dont. When i do hit it it feels easy, but i can't figure out what i did differently than the times i failed. Is it focus? If so, do you focus on something in particular? (ie, fully pointing feet, pulling closer to the wall, etc)
What are some things you all reccomend to building dyno skill? Seeing a skilled boulderer fly up a wall is pretty impressive. How do you get to that?
(This post was edited by RyanW2050 on Jan 18, 2009, 10:09 PM)
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petsfed
Jan 18, 2009, 10:02 PM
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RyanW2050 wrote: While working on a vertical Dyno near my limit, sometimes i make it and sometimes i dont. When i do hit it it feels easy, but i can't figure out what i did differently than the times i failed. Is it focus? If so, do you focus on something in particular? (ie, fully pointing feet, pulling closer to the wall, etc) What are some things you all reccomend to building dyno skill? Seeing a skilled boulderer fly up a wall is pretty impressive. How do you get to that?
Its all footwork and body control. Chances are, when it felt easy, you had focussed, albeit subconsciously, on having the exact amount of body tension to maximize the power from your legs. Secondarily, you had your feet in the exact right position to get push the most. Finally, your hands were in the right place to allow a pivot, rather than a pull, from the starting holds.
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Spidermonkey.Rosi
Jan 18, 2009, 10:32 PM
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Petsfed made a good point there. Body controll is very important when it comes to climbing. I believe when doing a good dyno you need to jump all in one motion. That way all your body's energy is exerted at once, giving you the maximum power of a dyno. So first bend your legs and when your ready use all your force in your body to make the dyno a success.
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styndall
Jan 19, 2009, 12:47 AM
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Keep trying dynos of various sizes and angles. The more you do, the more you get a sense of the positions and forces you need to latch the upper hold at the very top of your leap.
Take some problems or routes you're comfortable on and skip some holds. Force yourself to move dynamically more often, and you'll get better at it.
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Valarc
Jan 19, 2009, 1:37 AM
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Spidermonkey.Rosi wrote: when your ready use all your force in your body to make the dyno a success.
wow... that's... quotable.
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headchop
Jan 19, 2009, 3:44 PM
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Valarc wrote: Spidermonkey.Rosi wrote: when your ready use all your force in your body to make the dyno a success. wow... that's... quotable.
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paclimber12
Jan 19, 2009, 3:58 PM
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make sure your pressing off as hard as you can with your feet. theyre just as important as you arms in a dyno
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kyleshea
Jan 19, 2009, 4:28 PM
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Valarc wrote: Spidermonkey.Rosi wrote: when your ready use all your force in your body to make the dyno a success. wow... that's... quotable.
no...valarc...you're so quotable.
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itstoearly
Jan 19, 2009, 4:58 PM
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I would suggest finding away to static your dyno. Dynoing should be used as a last resort and is not considered "skilled" climbing.
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jto
Jan 19, 2009, 5:35 PM
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Dynoing IS concerned absolutely a climbing skill and sometimes it (includes deadpointing too) is very much more efficient way of moving than doing it "static". Dynoing is very much movement dependant and difficult neuromuscular action. Lots of timing and coordination is needed along with good basic strength and explosive power.
So if you are weak you can train your strength with weights. Basic training for muscles you need in dynoing (legs, glutes, back, abs, arms...well it´s a whole body stuff) is all you need. Controlled but not too slow movements around 4-12 reps. No explosive training with weights is needed. The carryover from weights to dynoing skill is almost non existent.
Anyway the main thing has been said here before: train the skill and you become better. A lot of easier ones for timing, coordination etc... When you get better, more accurate and economic, you can do more max efforts too. But you can´t learn skill with max efforts so build up a base first. Train often but not to exhaustion.
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Rufsen
Jan 19, 2009, 5:37 PM
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itstoearly wrote: I would suggest finding away to static your dyno. Dynoing should be used as a last resort and is not considered "skilled" climbing.
This makes no sense to me. If a dyno is easier that doing the move(s) static then why avoid it? And dynoing does require skill.
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itstoearly
Jan 19, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Rufsen wrote: itstoearly wrote: I would suggest finding away to static your dyno. Dynoing should be used as a last resort and is not considered "skilled" climbing. This makes no sense to me. If a dyno is easier that doing the move(s) static then why avoid it? And dynoing does require skill.
Apparently that joke fell flat on its face. See here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2058671;page=unread#unread
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Valarc
Jan 19, 2009, 7:59 PM
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itstoearly wrote: Rufsen wrote: itstoearly wrote: I would suggest finding away to static your dyno. Dynoing should be used as a last resort and is not considered "skilled" climbing. This makes no sense to me. If a dyno is easier that doing the move(s) static then why avoid it? And dynoing does require skill. Apparently that joke fell flat on its face. See here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2058671;page=unread#unread
You ruined it. You could have gotten another couple of pages of posts arguing with you.
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itstoearly
Jan 19, 2009, 8:13 PM
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Valarc wrote: itstoearly wrote: Rufsen wrote: itstoearly wrote: I would suggest finding away to static your dyno. Dynoing should be used as a last resort and is not considered "skilled" climbing. This makes no sense to me. If a dyno is easier that doing the move(s) static then why avoid it? And dynoing does require skill. Apparently that joke fell flat on its face. See here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2058671;page=unread#unread You ruined it. You could have gotten another couple of pages of posts arguing with you.
It's true, I'm impatient.
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kyleshea
Jan 19, 2009, 8:14 PM
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Valarc wrote: itstoearly wrote: Rufsen wrote: itstoearly wrote: I would suggest finding away to static your dyno. Dynoing should be used as a last resort and is not considered "skilled" climbing. This makes no sense to me. If a dyno is easier that doing the move(s) static then why avoid it? And dynoing does require skill. Apparently that joke fell flat on its face. See here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2058671;page=unread#unread You ruined it. You could have gotten another couple of pages of posts arguing with you.
give it a rest!
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borntorocku
Jan 19, 2009, 9:18 PM
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Videotape yourself trying various dynos. It will give you unbiased feedback about successful compared to unsuccessful dynos.
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sidepull
Jan 19, 2009, 9:51 PM
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Bornto is providing some great advice that you allude to in your opening post. If you can't figure out the difference between failure and success then it's less an issue of technique (you have some because you're able to complete the dyno some percentage of the time) or strength (not an issue because, again, you're able to complete it sometimes) but an issue of body awareness. The fact that you can't "feel" the difference means you need to spend more time really focusing on how your body moves. Video feedback might help. Focusing on your toes, hips, knees, etc., might help you realize where you're developing momentum. The point is, when you're not successful you need to be able to detect why (e.g. my hips sagged on that one or I needed to turn my right foot in).
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Spidermonkey.Rosi
Jan 20, 2009, 10:52 PM
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Please stop asshole.
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sungam
Jan 20, 2009, 11:02 PM
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Okay, I'll bite.
Assuming you have good hand and foot holds, dynos usually have three stages.
1) swinging slightly and bringing your weight over your feet
2)while keeping a slight foreward (ie towards the rock) extend the legs and pull down and in with the arms (to keep yourself going up and in rather then flying from the wall)
3) catching the hold and trying to keep your weight under it, reducing the backswing as much as possible and already looking down fo your footholds.
4)keep sending.
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mandryd
Jan 21, 2009, 2:19 AM
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I think the main thing that I think I forget to do is to continue PUSHING downwards with my hands once i get past that pull point.
Other than that, it's clearing my mind and mentally committing to the large throw.
(This post was edited by mandryd on Jan 21, 2009, 2:21 AM)
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I_do
Jan 24, 2009, 10:06 AM
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RyanW2050 wrote: While working on a vertical Dyno near my limit, sometimes i make it and sometimes i dont. When i do hit it it feels easy, but i can't figure out what i did differently than the times i failed. Is it focus? If so, do you focus on something in particular? (ie, fully pointing feet, pulling closer to the wall, etc) What are some things you all reccomend to building dyno skill? Seeing a skilled boulderer fly up a wall is pretty impressive. How do you get to that?
Dynoing actually seems to be one of the few skills (I mean the only) in which I can beat my more talented climbing friends. What always helps for my is focusing on pushing of with my feet, your hands will do the work without your attention IMHO, and visualizing the move before you do it and then aiming at the very top of the hold.
Don't know if it helps you, but it works for me just fine.
Disclaimer, I am a rather weaksauce climber following my advice could lead to explosive diarrhea
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dingus
Jan 24, 2009, 2:03 PM
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I was a line man in high school football. Twas good prep for dynos - its virtually the same thing. Its teaching the body to tense, coil and extend explosively, all at once, a great and rash 'standing up.'
the folks I've climbed with who dyno poorly all seem to lack the coordination to 'uncoil' all at once.
the other great failing at dynos is lack of belief and lack of commitment (co-joined at the hip) - this results in half hearted bullshit.
DMT
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anonymi
Jan 24, 2009, 8:26 PM
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Watch this mans feet. WOW
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5P1YO4PdlE
There was one time I did the extra foot thing by accident, off a higher feature, and the previously hard dyno felt like a piece of cake..
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sungam
Jan 24, 2009, 9:03 PM
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WTF?
Chris Graham removed his video of him sending Caterpult, a font 8A at Kyloe-in-the-woods. It is sick... I could barely pull off the ground on that shitty mono. The dyno is huge, and he makes a forceful 2nd generation push with his foot off a smear to get the extra few inches.
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