|
danielb
Nov 18, 2002, 3:06 PM
Post #1 of 5
(1428 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 232
|
Ok I have a full trad rack listed (in the 1st post) here.
What else pro wise should I be thinking about some ice screws and pitons? I will be climbing in Scotland so it will mostly be mixed climbing.
DanielB
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Nov 18, 2002, 3:25 PM
Post #2 of 5
(1428 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
For Scotland just get couple of screws in mid to small length and maybe one or two 22cm
Also get the warthogs ( mountain technology in Scotland is the only one who still makes them in the present time …they (warthogs) are very valuable for Scottish ice)
And a selection of your existing trad gear with this u will be more then covered for Scottish ice
|
|
|
|
|
danielb
Nov 18, 2002, 3:28 PM
Post #3 of 5
(1428 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 30, 2002
Posts: 232
|
ok so 2-3 shorts screws instead then? And drive in screws instead of pitons?
Daniel
|
|
|
|
|
punk
Nov 18, 2002, 3:38 PM
Post #4 of 5
(1428 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 1442
|
Ill go with
2 stubbys
4 17cm
1 22cm
1 or 2snargs
3 to 4 warthogs
And limited selection from your trad gear
|
|
|
|
|
darkside
Nov 18, 2002, 5:32 PM
Post #5 of 5
(1428 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 15, 2001
Posts: 1687
|
Since I didn't start climbing till after I left Britain, I never got a chance to take on the Scottish gulleys. Unfortunately that means I am hardly qualified to advise you as to a good rack for said terrain. Add to that my preference for phat ice and you can see how that influences my choice of rack. Basically that is what it comes down to, your choice of gear.
When I may have to cover some mixed terrain though I tend to add the following to my rack:
#1 - 3 Camp lost arrow pitons
.5 - 2 Camp tricams
Additional rock gear as considered.
The pitons are the ones recommended to me by Dr Piton as likely the most versatile for ice(he did some ice prior to his free climbing retirement and definitely knows his pitons). Although I have not used a tricam in an iced up crack, they are supposed to work good that way or also as stoppers in non iced cracks so you are getting a good versatility for the weight.
If there is a chance of having to build multi-pitch anchors, then a couple of long screws may be good to have, 22cm say.
Pound in ice protection: I have never used the likes of snargs and warthogs and therefore am unqualified to advise on the appropriateness. Tests by Black Diamond and other reviews such as Craig Luebben's, show hooks break or lever out at loads substantially less than screws.
AND lets not forget the invaluable load limiter. Yates screamers or Onsights zippers could be the difference between pro holding or failing. Try really hard to avoid testing this theory though.
The best folks to ask for refinements on your rack though would be fellow Scots familiar with the terrain. From what I hear, the gulleys are rather unlike north American terrain, and we don't have the requisite pub nearby
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
