Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Bouldering:
Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Bouldering

Premier Sponsor:

 


Banta


Jan 13, 2009, 9:14 AM
Post #1 of 11 (2163 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2007
Posts: 49

Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

When I first started climbing I started out on top rope then quickly moved to bouldering and have been purely bouldering for the last year or so. I have been getting bored with bouldering recently and have been doing more sport and far less bouldering and I have noticed my strength/power has diminished quite noticeably and I don't like it one bit.

Are there ways to balance sport and bouldering and get the best of both worlds -- the endurance and strength?


rhythm164


Jan 13, 2009, 9:17 AM
Post #2 of 11 (2158 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964

Re: [Banta] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

uuuuuh, do both?


Banta


Jan 13, 2009, 9:25 AM
Post #3 of 11 (2143 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 27, 2007
Posts: 49

Re: [rhythm164] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So far for me doing both has resulted in mediocre performance of both. But if I specificaly train one discipline I see much greater results.


rockforlife


Jan 13, 2009, 9:27 AM
Post #4 of 11 (2137 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 563

Re: [Banta] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Banta wrote:
So far for me doing both has resulted in mediocre performance of both. But if I specificaly train one discipline I see much greater results.


Yes


petsfed


Jan 13, 2009, 9:29 AM
Post #5 of 11 (2131 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: [Banta] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Look for routes that are similar in character to the problems you enjoy doing.

So, steep and powerful.

Chances are, the routes you've been doing are less power intensive, so you're simply not using all that power you've built up.


norskagent


Jan 13, 2009, 9:29 AM
Post #6 of 11 (2128 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 9, 2003
Posts: 409

Re: [rockforlife] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

climb harder sport.


curt


Jan 24, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #7 of 11 (1870 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18273

Re: [norskagent] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Climb trad--and boulder. Sport climbing is neither. Cool

Curt


rhythm164


Jan 24, 2009, 8:21 PM
Post #8 of 11 (1841 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964

Re: [Banta] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hmm, interesting, I find doing both has complimented my bouldering as well as roping up, and both have improved. Maybe you just need to find some effective training excersies. Check out the Self Coached Climber, lots of good stuff in there, both to improve bouldering and longer routes.


mikeboomer12


Jan 24, 2009, 9:47 PM
Post #9 of 11 (1798 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 15, 2007
Posts: 52

Re: [Banta] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Overhanging sport and sustained climbs at your peak should help...


chossmonkey


Jan 25, 2009, 5:05 AM
Post #10 of 11 (1735 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [Banta] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Banta wrote:
Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer
Don't tell that to the Sharmanator or many of the other top climbers.




BTW, bouldering is just practice for real climbing. Don't get too upset.


Azure


Jan 25, 2009, 5:19 AM
Post #11 of 11 (1726 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 17, 2007
Posts: 28

Re: [norskagent] Tying in: The undoing of any good boulderer [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

norskagent wrote:
climb harder sport.

I second this statement.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Bouldering

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook