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Will Ascender Damage Rope?
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prowsolo


Jan 30, 2009, 9:22 AM
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Will Ascender Damage Rope?
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Anyone else aid solo with a stichplate with a spring and a ascender used as the breakhand.

Charles Cole used this method on Space and Heart of Darkness.


Please Advise

Juan


altelis


Jan 30, 2009, 9:44 AM
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Re: [prowsolo] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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uh. not quite sure if that "dong, dong" echoey sound i hear is the sound of your massive steel balls knocking against each other as you walk or the sound of your only two brain cells colliding in your empty head.

seriously. either is impressive (in its own way...)Blush


coastal_climber


Jan 30, 2009, 12:00 PM
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Re: [altelis] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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No, ascenders don't damage the rope unless you happen to fall on them. They do wear the rope, but not enough to be a safety issue.


skiclimb


Jan 30, 2009, 12:01 PM
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Re: [prowsolo] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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Using ascenders to stop lead falls (especially buffered by a belay device such as the stich plate) may be effective most of the time.

However when it isn't effective the results are somewhat annoying to rescue/cleanup personel.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Jan 30, 2009, 12:04 PM)


coastal_climber


Jan 30, 2009, 12:03 PM
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Re: [skiclimb] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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skiclimb wrote:
Using ascenders to stop lead falls may be effective most of the time.

However when it isn't effective the results are somewhat annoying to rescue/cleanup personel.


okay, What the fuck?


milesenoell


Jan 30, 2009, 12:49 PM
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Re: [prowsolo] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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Not to imply that it is like aid soloing, but I have done lots of TR soloing using an ascender, and can attest that little TR falls are enough to make your rope prematurely fuzzy but just in little tufts where the teeth bite the sheath. I've examined my rope pretty carefully and never seen any real damage that concerned me. I've also discussed it with others that use similar set-ups and come to feel very comfortable with it, with the one caveat : the ascenders weren't really designed for this, and while it seems plenty safe to TR solo like this, the teeth may be degrading the load strands in ways that can't be seen through the sheath, so consider keeping your TR solo rope seperate from your lead rope. I've considered swithching to a Cinch for the smooth cams just to get rid of this concern.


ptlong


Jan 30, 2009, 1:40 PM
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Re: [prowsolo] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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Back of the envelope calculation....

Worst case you whip and the force on you is 10kN. A typical belay device steps this down by a factor of 5 or more. So the jumar is only looking at 2kN. Petzl says theirs is okay up to 3.3kN. At 4.6kN the sheath might rupture, but not the core.

...says you're BOMBER!


coastal_climber


Jan 30, 2009, 1:48 PM
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Re: [ptlong] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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Oh, TR solo. Gotcha.


moof


Jan 30, 2009, 8:25 PM
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Re: [prowsolo] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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Back under your bridge you troll!


graniteboy


Feb 2, 2009, 1:36 PM
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Re: [prowsolo] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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Yeah, alot of us USED to solo like that.....and, irrespective of Altelis' usual predictable snark, it actually works. I've taken 30 footers on such a funky system...back when SLCDs were a newfangled deal....and rugby shirts were cool.

But why would you wanna go back to 1970s/early 80s methods when we have such better options now? Unless you're just trolling....


jmvc


Feb 4, 2009, 1:56 AM
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Wouldn't the brake hand ascender make it very difficult to feed rope?

The system sounds like it would stop a fall, but as previously mentioned, I believe that there are better options out there.


graniteboy


Feb 4, 2009, 2:06 PM
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Re: [jmvc] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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Also, please remember that whoever you are asking this question, Charles Cole's cajones and experience level and climbing skill in the 1970s were 10 times more than yours are now.
Get a real solo belay device. Better yet, a partner...not the silent type. How much is your life worth?


altelis


Feb 4, 2009, 5:17 PM
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Re: [graniteboy] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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not that your comment really bothered me- but outa simple curiosity, how is this that much different than my comment?


graniteboy


Feb 4, 2009, 5:26 PM
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Re: [altelis] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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1) Charlie Cole really was a badass, and anyone having to ask about that belay method is obviously not one
2)I never made any statements suggesting that the OP was stupid
3) talk to the hand


altelis


Feb 4, 2009, 5:30 PM
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Re: [graniteboy] Will Ascender Damage Rope? [In reply to]
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wmapdfofjn ghasf!
(sorry, i got to close to the hand.....things got a little jumbled.....)


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