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hp
Nov 30, 2008, 9:48 AM
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We are going to Thailand in January and are going to use few days for climbing (grades 5.7 to 5.10d). I´ve understood that easy routes in Krabi are crowded, so is it any different in Phi Phi? I´ve also heard that routes might be really polished in some places. Is it the same in Phi Phi?
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rtwilli4
Dec 1, 2008, 4:53 AM
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If you were climbing 12's I'd say Tonsai for sure... but you said 5.7 to 10d.
There are a lot less climbers in Phi Phi. The majority of the climbing on Phi Phi is 5.11 and easier. There are some classic multi-pitch moderates on Phi Phi that never have anyone on them... you have to get a boat to them but they are right there near the main beach. There are probably 100 bolted routes on the island and you can walk to almost all of them in less than 20 min.
Tonsai has A TON of climbing... you might have to search a little to avoid the crowds, but you can find good places to climb at any level. There are a dozen walls in Tonsai/Railey with 1000 bolted routes.
If you are only going to climb a few days PP will not get boring (even if you climb all day every day) and Tonsai may be overwhelming. You can chase shade all day at both places and climb for 8 hrs a day. Both places have DWS, but Tonsai is the only place that will take you on a trip... you have to arrange your own boat and just ride around in PP.
It is important to note the difference between Tonsai and Railey. Tonsai is basically a jungle with a trail and a few restaurants and places to stay. It is mainly a climber hangout. Accommodation is cheaper but it is dirtier than Railey. The beach, the water... everything is pretty dirty. It is about a 30 min walk from Railey, which is pricier, home to the fat Euro tourists, a bit cleaner with an average beach. Lots more choices to stay, eat, drink, etc.
Phi Phi is the most beautiful place of the two. Beaches are 10 times as nice... it is the white sand, clear blue water that you expect from Thailand, while Tonsai has become a sewage dump. It is also the priciest of the three, and has the most tourists. The island is crowded as hell unless you hit it during the Full Moon, but the climbing isn't crowded. Great snorkeling, hiking, lots of good bars if you like to party, a real Thai boxing stadium, etc. There is camping at Maya Bay on Phi Phi Le, which is a national park. Great freediving and bouldering on the beach, and probably the best beach in either place.
Like I said... for a few days, you aren't going to climb out PP, there will be less people, and lots of easy stuff. You certainly won't be disappointed with Tonsai either. It's really about your budget and what you want to do with your rest days and nights.
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hp
Dec 2, 2008, 5:04 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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ok.... Thank you for information!
Our budget isn´t big, but we won´t stay for long either. I think we´re going to head to Phi Phi first, since we´re coming from Phuket by boat and want to snorkel also. We´ll stay there for a while and then head to Railay.
Do you happen to know if there is climbing shops in Phuket where I could find topos and gear?
I´d like to bring own rope since I won´t rent it, but buying a new one wouldn´t be a bad idea either...
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caughtinside
Dec 2, 2008, 5:47 PM
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some thoughts...
PP has lots of moderate climbing, mostly 9s and 10s on the Tonsai Tower. 2 days worth of climbing there, maybe a third. The climbs are all very similar though, and you'll be sharing with the guide services.
I would recommend hiring a longtail boat and doing the Hand of Bhudda on the oyster blade, thing is really fun and chances are you'll have it to yourself
http://www.mountainproject.com/...koh_phiphi/105999022
There is lots of .10d and under climbin on tonsai/railay as well, and the climbing there is much better than that on PP. Diamond Cave and 1-2-3 walls have lots of moderates, expect to share those with guide services as well.
Personally, I thought Phuket was gross and way ghetto for an international beach destination, PP and tonsai were way nicer, and had no cars or prostitutes, which I thought was nice.
I doubt there will be a climbing shop in phuket but there's at least 2 on PP and 4 on tonsai/railay.
Tonsai will be the cheapest. PP will be pricier for everything, and Phuket will be more expensive as well. Railay costs more than Tonsai by a good bit as well.
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caughtinside
Dec 2, 2008, 5:48 PM
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ps- no flights into BKK for like a week now because of the protest... keep an eye on that.
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hp
Feb 2, 2009, 8:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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 Climbing in PP was awesome! Routes were great and there was no crowds. I found the grades in Tonsai wall pretty soft and it´s well suitable for beginners. At Ao Ling the grades were closer to reality. I´m sure that I´ll find my self back there in few years with more time.
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hp
Feb 2, 2009, 8:40 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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...couple more things. The Hand of Buddha at Ao Ling was great. We climbed the first three pitches and rapped down. Fourth pitch didn´t seem as good... And what comes to Phuket. There was no prostitutes in Karon and Kata. Only those fat euro tourists 
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mkay
Feb 13, 2009, 3:48 AM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2009
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Would you say the ratings there are similar to a climbing gym? I saw that most of the climbs are 5.10 and up. I am used to trad climbing in yosemite and j-tree. I assume the ratings are softer than those places???
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hp
Feb 14, 2009, 5:17 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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We don't grade routes in our gyms and I haven't climbed in America, but I bet you won´t find the routes too hard. There are several fives there, but they might as well be fours... There was Cats climbing course when we were there and the guys had many routes easy enough... I recommend the Hand of Buddha in Ao Ling. But make sure you have a boat picking you up if its going to be high tide when you come back. I ended up with all kinds cuts when I walked back.
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