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skinner
Aug 22, 2008, 12:11 AM
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I've searched and read a lot of bantering on the subject, but am really curious what aid climbers (who have used the master cams) think of them?
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angry
Aug 22, 2008, 1:02 AM
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Personally, I'm not impressed.
They are in no way superior to the already available WC Zero's or CCH Aliens.
When I've used them, they fit, but never quite at well. I only used them where it wasn't important or difficult climbing.
I do like their two smallest sizes better than the blue and black aliens though because they do have a much narrower head width. I'd probably get a C3 in that size before them though.
So yeah, they kick ass, they're everything you'll ever want in a cam.
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skinner
Aug 22, 2008, 2:05 PM
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Thanks angry. What about the stems, do you think they'd hold up if they were constantly being weighted over an edge? Aliens seem to be the only cams so far with stems that are both super flexible and durable at the same time.
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jungle_george
Aug 22, 2008, 2:54 PM
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For aid I haven't been too impressed. I bought the yellow and red as an addition to my TCU's.
The cable kinked permanently in the first horizontal aid placement and part of the thin trigger wire (before the kevlar thread begins) is now frayed on the yellow. Bent it back with pliers but still looks wonky.
I was super excited when I got them, but now not so much. Don't know how long they'll last.
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Gaia_Mind
Nov 29, 2008, 6:50 AM
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If I could go back, I would never have even bought the one I did.
Here is why they are no good: For aiding, sometimes the rock requires very specific and wierd placements... When you weight the cam (directionalized upwardly) the upper lobes release because the "wire" between the lobes and the trigger is too short and causes the lobes to close.
I placed a blue master cam directionalized upwardly in a pinscar on the Prow. I tested it, and stepped up on it. After getting the majority of my weight on it, it blew and I had to catch myself (hands in 5.11+ crack with aid rack and approach shoes on) before I blew two body weight placements below me and fell into a ledge. I figured it out later that it was this design flaw that caused the piece to blow.
A Serious design flaw which Metolius should definetly fix. Pick one up in a store and try for yourself, bend the stem far enough and the upper lobes will automatically cam/close.
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wanderlustmd
Nov 29, 2008, 2:56 PM
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angry wrote: Personally, I'm not impressed. They are in no way superior to the already available WC Zero's or CCH Aliens. When I've used them, they fit, but never quite at well. I only used them where it wasn't important or difficult climbing. I do like their two smallest sizes better than the blue and black aliens though because they do have a much narrower head width. I'd probably get a C3 in that size before them though. So yeah, they kick ass, they're everything you'll ever want in a cam.
In comparison to their TCUs, I prefer the TCUs. Never owned aliens.
(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Nov 29, 2008, 2:58 PM)
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alpine_monk
Jan 16, 2009, 9:24 PM
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I like aliens way way more for funky aid placements when it counts. I really hope CCH can handle the hit and stay in buisness!! that whole dimpled alien scare a few years back hurt them a bit, and now the master cam is posing compotition. I will cry if they go out of buisness. IMO aliens are still the best aid cam out there. buy lots of aliens... even if you dont need them. even if they just dangle from your harness in the gym, buy aliens. chicks will think you crush big walls and come flocking. buy aliens!
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iamcolinslack
Jan 28, 2009, 4:32 PM
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bought the purple one this weekend for placing under a big expanding flake. worked like a charm and seems like a burly little SOB. I will be picking up more in the near future.
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coastal_climber
Jan 28, 2009, 11:20 PM
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I like the Mastercams, but they aren't as good for anything but textbook placements. You can't insert them into the crack and play with them like you can with an alien - far to stiff. I have aliens, and my buddy has the set of Mastercams, but I would rather use the aliens for their versatility.
>Cam
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Durin
Feb 5, 2009, 6:25 AM
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If I have aliens (both regular and hybrid) for the smaller cams, and C4 camalots from 0.5 (purple) and higher, is there really a point in getting TCU's or C3's, or really, anything else?
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scottydo
Feb 5, 2009, 9:01 AM
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I have a few Master Cams that I have been using since Christmas now (Santa was good to me) and while I haven't used them aiding, they work great for regular Trad. They aren't quite as smooth as C4s, but I think that is because the spring is so strong. Whenever I place them they feel super solid.
Only think i really like about them over the C4s is that they're a little easier to pull out because of the slim design. However, for the bigger sizes I'll go with C4s in the future.
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tomtom
Feb 6, 2009, 11:06 PM
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Durin wrote: If I have aliens (both regular and hybrid) for the smaller cams, and C4 camalots from 0.5 (purple) and higher, is there really a point in getting TCU's or C3's, or really, anything else?
I've seen a few placements where offset TCUs work and hybrid aliens didn't. One was a blown out pinscar in sandstone (Zion), where the hybrid alien wouldn't bite (the head was too big), but the wire of the TCU slid into the thin vertical crack and the close placement of the three lobes locked into the pod.
Not very common, though.
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