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Gelada
Jan 30, 2009, 5:16 PM
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Mainly I wanted to know what rituals you all had for making sure you chose the right pair of shoes. If that entices you enough to post, then you can stop reading now, but if you want some more detail as to 'why' I am asking - read on.
Because I am horrible to buy gifts for, the only pair (La Sportiva Cliffs) I have ever owned was a gift from my father when I off-handedly mentioned I might just kinda like rock-climbing - before I was really into it.
I'm in the market for some new ones, but the problem I have run into is limited selection and education. I live in Orlando so there is only one real gym close by and their selection is not stellar.
I tried some on yesterday and found my foot to be awkward in 5.10's. My foot does have a very narrow heel and yet my toes (big one especially) are pretty large. I put on some Katana's and they actually felt real nice, but I have been mostly bouldering lately.
I have an existing prejudice against them (La Sportiva Solutions - don't like their aesethics) but they actually fit my foot quite well size 39.5's. Here is where the uneducation comes in - since I have not had a very agressive shoe before, I don't the criterea for making an ultimate choice (pain threshold, eventual stretch). My street shoe size is 10.5 (44 right?) usually so I was surprised I could my feet into, let alone without much effort.
I also ordered some Scarpa Vision V's in a size 42 because they were on sale, but they did not fit right at all. Owned those for probably 9 hours total. I've spent whole days just reading reviews on various websites and reading through other posts on shoe purchases, so it is getting kinda out of hand.
To get down to it, should I suck it up and buy something from my gym that I know will fit me well and right now, but possibly not be the best shoe for me - OR - continue the arduous and disappointing cycle of ordering and returning shoes online?
Oh, this is ended up being a lot longer than intended.
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jakedatc
Jan 30, 2009, 5:29 PM
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sounds like you are like me... and near same size too. your foot seems to like the shape of La Sportiva so i'd stay with them. my Miuras, Testarossas, Solutions are all the same size.
If the Katanas fit nice i don't see any reason not to get them.. they are perfectly fine for gym or outside bouldering and aren't so aggressive you couldn't do longer stuff outside in them. The Solutions are a pretty specialized shoe for steep routes and bouldering and in my opinion a waste of money for indoor climbing.
La sportiva sizing is not comparable to your street shoe size.. just go with what fits and don't worry about what the size says. But remember that size because Sportiva is pretty consistent across their line
Don't get them painful. I like mine to feel tight but not crushed. If you can't feel your toes or they hurt the whole time your footwork is going to suck
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northfacejmb
Jan 30, 2009, 5:32 PM
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I say just buy the Katanas or the Solutions. They both are going to be plenty aggressive for bouldering and unless you are currently sending V8's I don't really think the lack of aggressiveness is really going to be an issue. Plus they will work better on slab and longer climbs where the downturned toe would be really painful.
Just my .02...
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Gmburns2000
Jan 30, 2009, 5:35 PM
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Go with what fits. That's probably the simplest solution.
And don't worry about the sizes. I can go several sizes down in Katanas, but I have to go several sizes up for 5.10s. My feet just aren't made for 5.10 shoes, and so I never wear them.
One thing you can do is to try to get your gym to do a shoe demo night. That's a great way to try on a bunch of different shoes and sizes. Once you find a pair that you like (size, performance, aesthetics) then you can keep the size in mind and buy them on-line whenever you want.
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seatbeltpants
Jan 30, 2009, 5:46 PM
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as someone who is just getting back the feeling in his toes five days after doing a session in super tight, just what the guy in the shop recommended, pump up your grade shoes, i've got to say that you should get something that isn't so tight they hurt. screw that bullshit thinking.
steve
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Gelada
Jan 30, 2009, 6:38 PM
Post #6 of 17
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Registered: Jan 21, 2009
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Just wanted to say thanks on the speedy replies, and talking some sense into me. Plus tactfully pointing out how I misspelled 'aesthetics" 
I think I am gonna gamble once more and order some Miuria VS's because they cannot be denied in my mind.
And then if they are not too hot for me, I'll prolly end up rockin the Katanas.
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jakedatc
Jan 30, 2009, 7:44 PM
Post #7 of 17
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well if you want correct sizing then i would go with the 39.5 in the Miura VS (which is different than Miura lace up by the way and not just the velcro)
In reply to: I say just buy the Katanas or the Solutions. They both are going to be plenty aggressive for bouldering and unless you are currently sending V8's I don't really think the lack of aggressiveness is really going to be an issue. Plus they will work better on slab and longer climbs where the downturned toe would be really painful. Just my .02...
Uhh.. Solutions are quite aggressive if you didn't know. I would not want to do anything over a pitch or anything less than vertical in them
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coastal_climber
Jan 30, 2009, 7:58 PM
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Go in to the gearshop, and bullshit with staff/customers regarding the shoe you have in mind. Try it on for a while, make sure you pull the V1+ on the tryout wall. Flirt with the chick and the counter, while turning a 2 minute transaction into a 15 min conversation. Voila! you have new shoes.
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kennoyce
Jan 30, 2009, 8:18 PM
Post #9 of 17
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In reply to: Flirt with the chick and the counter
Screw flirting with the chick, just flirt with the counter. I find the counters at climbing shops to be so hot.
Well for the shoe question, I'd just go with the katanas, they are good shoes, not to aggressive, but good, and they fit well. Plus you are then putting cash into your local economy instead of helping it out somewhere else.
good luck.
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sungam
Jan 31, 2009, 3:10 AM
Post #10 of 17
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The cheapesst ones I can find.
The current pair I'm rocking I paid a PB and choco chewy bar for.
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WheresTheFire
Feb 3, 2009, 10:43 PM
Post #11 of 17
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Registered: Jan 28, 2009
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I definitely research online before I buy anything. But I never actually buy shoes online because climbing shoes don't fit the same for everyone. I had Mad Rock Flash and they were great for a first shoe and super comfortable. I just bought Katanas and I'm not sure about them yet because they might be too small -- as recommended by the guy at the gear shop. It really depends on how you feel in them, and whether you're looking for a comfortable all day shoe, or a one-pitch-wonder.
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j_ung
Feb 3, 2009, 11:20 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Do you ever travel outside your home state? If you do, you might make it a point to stop in and try other models. I guess I'm lucky because my local shop has a very good selection, but I still have to say there is no substitute for trying them on.
Second best I think is to contact customer service for the company you want to buy from (the shoe company, not the Internet retailer) and talk with them. I know EVOLV will try to fit you based on a tracing of your foot sent in, and I'm sure other companies will also make an effort to help.
Lastly, screw what the shoe looks like -- function over form every time.
Oh wait. Reeeeaaallly lastly, if you find a pair of shoes you like and that fits well, buy a couple pairs and stash one for later.
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ghisino
Feb 4, 2009, 8:44 AM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
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yeah, the katana numbering you mentioned seems quite normal.
myself i mostly own lasportivas, my "method" is :
-selecting my usual model and or new models. getting off the shelves some numbers close to what I think is the smallest I can slip in
-trying tryng trying. even at the aid of a plastic bag as sock (makes your foot slip better into small sizes)
-once I know wich model is better fitting (no voids) most comfortable and having the stiffness/downturn etc i am looking for, I consider if getting the crazy number or going 1/2 size up.
-doing some home shoe stretching before climbing in my new pair. the best is having a warm shower and putting the shoe on just after, with feet moist and hot.
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Gelada
Feb 4, 2009, 3:01 PM
Post #14 of 17
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Registered: Jan 21, 2009
Posts: 36
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Welp, this thread is pretty much null and void for me now because I got the gout in my left foot.
Jerst kidding, I dont even really like liverwurst.
I learned that I should actually talk to the people I live with (or in general) more because they knew of a outdoor store nearby that I had never heard of.
Their selection is much better and I'm probably gonna head over there tonight if the traffic ain't too bad after work.
Ghisino, I really liked your advice.
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iceaxe23
Feb 4, 2009, 6:25 PM
Post #15 of 17
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Registered: Jan 30, 2006
Posts: 35
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I have a few pairs of different shoes. some tight, some comfy. As I get older (33) I tend to always were the comfy ones. I love the five ten assents and now the Vmile. there is a company that will sell mixed match pairs of shoes such as a left 42 and a right 42.5 (I think acopa). Fit is the most important thing I look for in buying new shoes. If mail order you may have to buy 3 of the same model in one size small, correct, and larger to get the correct fit as sizes are not standard.
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apeman_e
Feb 5, 2009, 1:40 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Registered: Nov 21, 2008
Posts: 212
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hope someone didnt alreay post this, but i find it helpful to read user reviews online to see which shoes really stretch over time, and which dont. good thing to know when sizing.
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qtm
Feb 5, 2009, 3:14 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Apr 8, 2004
Posts: 548
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j_ung wrote: Oh wait. Reeeeaaallly lastly, if you find a pair of shoes you like and that fits well, buy a couple pairs and stash one for later.
I like this advice. Shoe companies like to tweak designs, and what once fit great may just be mediocre the next generation. If you find shoes you like, buy an extra pair, and keep an eye out for changes being made. When the new designs come out, you can sometimes find the old ones on clearance, a good time to stock up. I find this easier than spending hours searching trying on new designs, especially if you don't have a gear shop near you.
I don't stash the extra pair(s) though, I rotate through them. The idea was that this gives the shoes a couple extra days to dry out between sessions, reducing the stink. I think it works, but it could also be because I've taken to cleaning my feet with a wet wipe before putting the climbing shoes on.
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