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kriso9tails
Feb 10, 2009, 3:20 AM
Post #26 of 66
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caliclimbergrl wrote: Actually, I hardly ever use chalk -- my hands just don't sweat that much.
Because I am such a gentleman, I would be willing to share my hand-sweat so you would have a reason to use more chalk (and thus climb harder).
Man, whoever said chivalry was dead obviously never met me.
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zeke_sf
Feb 10, 2009, 3:24 AM
Post #27 of 66
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Well, everybody, we've finally been called out. You know who are: You, with the chalk-flecked lips, looking like a rabid dingo that needs to be put down; you, with what looks like a baker's mitts if it weren't for the weeping gobies; and you, the one dipping his hands in his chalkbag as if there were a beta sheet for that next move, pathetic as an obssessive compulsive turning off a stove. People people there's nothing for it but to finally stop using chalk and climb for crap just like the OP.
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dingus
Feb 10, 2009, 4:14 AM
Post #28 of 66
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bigblue wrote: i do admit, we all fell for it troll.
No.... WE didn't.
Cheers though!
DMT
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caleb_danner
Feb 10, 2009, 4:34 AM
Post #29 of 66
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chalk is NOT cheeting but it does need to get cleaned mo often
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climbinginchico
Feb 10, 2009, 7:13 AM
Post #30 of 66
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T0-
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meanandugly
Feb 10, 2009, 12:01 PM
Post #31 of 66
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Sharing ideas and opinions about climbing = cheating ;^)
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shockabuku
Feb 10, 2009, 12:27 PM
Post #32 of 66
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mushroom wrote: next time you take a dip, remember that you are CHEATING. rationalize all you want, but you know deep down.
Okay, I can live with that.
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apeman_e
Feb 10, 2009, 1:01 PM
Post #33 of 66
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im wearing a chalk bag right now because I get so greasy typing.
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dingus
Feb 10, 2009, 1:53 PM
Post #34 of 66
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apeman_e wrote: im wearing a chalk bag right now because I get so greasy typing.
A very real problem. Why just last week a coworker threw a monodoight for the A key, greased off and fell on the floor.
A little chalk woulda likely kept her at the keyboard.
DMT
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limeydave
Feb 10, 2009, 3:01 PM
Post #35 of 66
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dingus wrote: apeman_e wrote: im wearing a chalk bag right now because I get so greasy typing. \ A very real problem. Why just last week a coworker threw a monodoight for the A key, greased off and fell on the floor. A little chalk woulda likely kept her at the keyboard. DMT
Dingus - You've been around long enough to know it was probably sloppy footwork.
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dingus
Feb 10, 2009, 3:30 PM
Post #36 of 66
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limeydave wrote: dingus wrote: apeman_e wrote: im wearing a chalk bag right now because I get so greasy typing. \ A very real problem. Why just last week a coworker threw a monodoight for the A key, greased off and fell on the floor. A little chalk woulda likely kept her at the keyboard. DMT Dingus - You've been around long enough to know it was probably sloppy footwork.
I shouted at her ... "Watch your feet!" but it was pretty cler she didn't get it haha.
DMT
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kachoong
Feb 10, 2009, 3:38 PM
Post #37 of 66
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kriso9tails wrote: It's true that anyone can climb anything with chalk. One day I was all like, "I think I'm gonna put up an FA on Olympus Mons today." Then my friends were all like, "Dude, that's impossible; it's on Mars." I just laughed and whipped out my chalk bag to which they responded, "Oh yeah, I didn't think of that."
Funny as hell! 
mushroom wrote: next time you take a dip, remember that you are CHEATING. rationalize all you want, but you know deep down.
Your Rong!
Chalk is a placebo!
It's all the chalk bag, and not the chalk, that aids with sending. What you're really reaching for back there is a handful of courage and to help take a moment to soak in all that lactic acid! The chalk bag has all the magic!
(This post was edited by kachoong on Feb 10, 2009, 3:39 PM)
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qwert
Feb 10, 2009, 5:39 PM
Post #38 of 66
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angry wrote: I don't believe it's cheating but I do believe it's overused and too seldom cleaned. It's definite visual pollution.
While chalc is visually distracting on dark rocks, it even harms the rock on some sandstone. It has a different chemistry, and clogs the pores, so be very carefull with chalc on sandstones!
But on the other hand on limestone chalc prevents damage, by neutralizing the hand acids, which otherwise would harm the rock, and after many climbs produce mirror like polished holds.
so if i ever see one of you chalking is cheating fucks at "my" limestone area, killing the rock with your sweaty hands, i am goin to make shure that your hands wont sweat anymore!
qwert
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hafilax
Feb 10, 2009, 6:04 PM
Post #39 of 66
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mushroom wrote: next time you take a dip, remember that you are CHEATING. rationalize all you want, but you know deep down.
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naitch
Feb 10, 2009, 6:10 PM
Post #40 of 66
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 539
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kachoong wrote: Your Rong! Chalk is a placebo! It's all the chalk bag, and not the chalk, that aids with sending. What you're really reaching for back there is a handful of courage and to help take a moment to soak in all that lactic acid! The chalk bag has all the magic!
Bingo! We have a winner...
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dingus
Feb 10, 2009, 6:22 PM
Post #41 of 66
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qwert wrote: angry wrote: I don't believe it's cheating but I do believe it's overused and too seldom cleaned. It's definite visual pollution. To bring some meaning to this stupid discussion, i am quoting the only usefull answer (apart from the mons olyimpus one) again, and add a bit more: While chalc is visually distracting on dark rocks, it even harms the rock on some sandstone. It has a different chemistry, and clogs the pores, so be very carefull with chalc on sandstones! But on the other hand on limestone chalc prevents damage, by neutralizing the hand acids, which otherwise would harm the rock, and after many climbs produce mirror like polished holds. so if i ever see one of you chalking is cheating fucks at "my" limestone area, killing the rock with your sweaty hands, i am goin to make shure that your hands wont sweat anymore! qwert
I'm curious - what is this chemical reaction between sandstone and chalk?
DMT
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qwert
Feb 10, 2009, 8:27 PM
Post #42 of 66
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dingus wrote: qwert wrote: angry wrote: I don't believe it's cheating but I do believe it's overused and too seldom cleaned. It's definite visual pollution. To bring some meaning to this stupid discussion, i am quoting the only usefull answer (apart from the mons olyimpus one) again, and add a bit more: While chalc is visually distracting on dark rocks, it even harms the rock on some sandstone. It has a different chemistry, and clogs the pores, so be very carefull with chalc on sandstones! But on the other hand on limestone chalc prevents damage, by neutralizing the hand acids, which otherwise would harm the rock, and after many climbs produce mirror like polished holds. so if i ever see one of you chalking is cheating fucks at "my" limestone area, killing the rock with your sweaty hands, i am goin to make shure that your hands wont sweat anymore! qwert I'm curious - what is this chemical reaction between sandstone and chalk? DMT
The chemistry issue is mostly because most sandstones are acidic rocks (silica), whereas chalk is basic. So there is some concerns that some chemical reactions might occur. However it is still unsure if or in what amount this has any effects.
What is more of an issue is that the fine grained chalc can clog the pores of the sand stone.
Compared to stuf like limestone or granite (most) sandstone has a very high porosity. this pore space is connected, and as such connected to the air, and to the "core" of the rock.
So the core space is an important part of the sandstone. If those pores get clogged at some points, the exchange of the rock with the surface and with lower layers is hindered, which might have negative effects, eg. by drying out or overwetting (does such a word exist) of holds, wich will change the erosion.
furhtermore (and that seems to be the most important point) if the top layer of pores is clogged the holds will get smoother. apart from sand grains sticking out, the open top porosity is what gives the sandstone its grippy nature. So on sandstone repeated use of chalc is making climbing harder!
qwert
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bob_54b
Feb 10, 2009, 8:39 PM
Post #43 of 66
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Registered: May 18, 2006
Posts: 64
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sometimes it's just better to not advertise your presence, that way you avoid the in-coming.
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krusher4
Feb 10, 2009, 8:41 PM
Post #44 of 66
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997
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I love my chalk and I am not giving it up!!
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ladyscarlett
Feb 10, 2009, 8:43 PM
Post #45 of 66
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Registered: Dec 17, 2008
Posts: 376
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With all of you liberal chalk users, why would I need to have my own?
What you've left on the rock is plenty for me to use.
I just have the chalk bag to look 'hardcore', especially with a huge name brand emblazoned on it - my version of the climbing billboard.
Interesting about the chalk-sandstone interaction though, I live near sandstone, so I'll be letting people know...
ls
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dingus
Feb 10, 2009, 9:52 PM
Post #46 of 66
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qwert wrote: The chemistry issue is mostly because most sandstones are acidic rocks (silica), whereas chalk is basic. So there is some concerns that some chemical reactions might occur. However it is still unsure if or in what amount this has any effects.
Hmm, maybe I'm iisinterpreting what you're saying, but these concerns should be easily addressed. Magnesium carbponate is a fairly well understood substance after all.
When dissolved with acid, magnesium carbonate decomposes with release of carbon dioxide:
MgCO3 + 2 HCl → MgCl2 + CO2 + H2O
MgCO3 + H2SO4 → MgSO4 + CO2 + H2O
In reply to: What is more of an issue is that the fine grained chalc can clog the pores of the sand stone. Compared to stuf like limestone or granite (most) sandstone has a very high porosity. this pore space is connected, and as such connected to the air, and to the "core" of the rock. So the core space is an important part of the sandstone. If those pores get clogged at some points, the exchange of the rock with the surface and with lower layers is hindered, which might have negative effects, eg. by drying out or overwetting (does such a word exist) of holds, wich will change the erosion.
Hmm, Ok....
In reply to: furhtermore (and that seems to be the most important point) if the top layer of pores is clogged the holds will get smoother. apart from sand grains sticking out, the open top porosity is what gives the sandstone its grippy nature. So on sandstone repeated use of chalc is making climbing harder! qwert
OK I understand your points. I reckon climate weighs in heavily - the sandstone of my youth,,, it rains there enough that clogging the pores is only a concern beneath overhangs.
Anyway, cheers for explaining all that.
DMT
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milesenoell
Feb 10, 2009, 11:19 PM
Post #47 of 66
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Posts: 1156
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Hmm, since sandstone weathers and sloughs off primarily from absorbed moisture freezing and expanding, I'd expect clogged pores to reduce the amount of absorbed moisture and reduce the weathering. That would be more like preserving the rock than degrading it, but would also mean that the same rock surface would see more traffic, and may get smoother as the protruding grippy particles get rubbed off.
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zeke_sf
Feb 11, 2009, 1:03 AM
Post #48 of 66
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
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Sometimes thread drift is like the fetal position.
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mushroom
Feb 11, 2009, 5:15 AM
Post #49 of 66
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Registered: Mar 10, 2007
Posts: 230
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bob_54b wrote: sometimes it's just better to not advertise your presence, that way you avoid the in-coming.
well hopefuly I didn't get comed in, but here's the deal
sorry to mess with all of yoru heads I hope your're all not taking this too serious....
but I was rolling around the valley a few summers ago and a Czech badass was promoting this phrase "anyone can climb anything with chalk". Alright, take it for what it was worth, he was stumbling through English to make the point that people tend to use too much chalk.
This bro would eat oily sardines, then commit to the the lead. Also, my friend reported on a bail on a long trad climb with this dude (using my friends gear) that this Czech dude would keeping saying. "So, after you rap, if I take out this nut I cna keep it?" and bootied a bunch of my bro's gear. Fair game is you ask me!
something to think about yall, I know.... I dip my fringer tips sometimes too
peace
p.s. what is your limit without using chalk???
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mushroom
Feb 11, 2009, 5:18 AM
Post #50 of 66
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p.s. I'm fcking wasted so fuck grammar I thought I sould finally let someone in on the game. props to those who know better
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