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TonySF
Feb 8, 2009, 5:47 AM
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We're looking for Yosemite Valley 5.8-5.9 chimneys to practice for the Texas Flake (5.8) on the Nose. Anyone have any suggestions, ideally not too many pitches up? We already know about Arch Rock. Thanks in advance for the advice.
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Durin
Feb 8, 2009, 7:12 AM
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The first pitch of the royal arches route is a 5.5 chimney. Not too hard, but pretty damn polished from the crowds. It's right off the ground, protected by chockstones, and the approach is tiny.
Have you considered just doing Steck-Salathe? Gets you to do chimneys when you're already a little tired!
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sspssp
Feb 9, 2009, 11:09 PM
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The NEB would be a better choice than Steck-Salathe. Steck-Salathe is overkill. Or the original route on the EB of Middle would be a better choice yet for 5.9 range. But anyway, the OP doesn't want a multi-pitch to get there.
Trial by Fire (Superslide area) is a friendly 5.8~5.9 chimney lead. Short approach/one pitch.
Arch rock runs stiff for the grade.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Feb 9, 2009, 11:11 PM)
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Gaia_Mind
Feb 10, 2009, 7:41 AM
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First pitch of central pillar is kind of a polished chimney (5.8?), but lots of varied climbing. The first pitch of the Rostrum has a squeeze chimney (5.9) at the top that will make you dry heave. There is a few routes at Pat and Jacks and the cookie that are chimneys as well.
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josephgdawson
Feb 10, 2009, 10:04 AM
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What route at Pat and Jack has a chimney?
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ptlong
Feb 10, 2009, 3:46 PM
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josephgdawson wrote: What route at Pat and Jack has a chimney?
Jack Pinnacle right side....or is it Pat Pinnacle left?
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dingus
Feb 10, 2009, 4:02 PM
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Split Pinnacle, 5 or so pitches. P1 chimney is a classic (5.8). The summit is ultra-classic! (obtained by either by 5 or 6 aid moves past 2 fixed pins and a couple of cam placements or.... by sending the WILD ASSED FLAKE that is belived to be the first rap placed lead-protection bolt in America).
The summit of Split is truly a one of a kind experience.
Oh this is all up in the woods somewhat up and behind the manure pile. Once you know what you seek the summit of Split is visible from many Valley vantage points.
Very doable in winter, snow pack permitting (approach is quite steep just below Split - I would not want to hike that slope when snow covered)
DMT
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caughtinside
Feb 10, 2009, 4:13 PM
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If you're willing to go somewhere else, you can go up to sugarloaf for the day and do a chimney circuit there:
Scheister 1st pitch: 5.7
Harding's Chimney: 5.8
1st pitch West Chimney: 5.6 up to TM's Deviation, 5.9+
There are a couple other chimney routes there I haven't done as well.
East Chimney 5.5 (looks crummy)
Fat Merchant Crack .10bX (looks scary)
Self Abuse .10b
You could easily bag all those in one day if you were motivated.
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evanwish
Feb 10, 2009, 11:56 PM
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Yeah there are a ton of chimneys (from thin offwidth to super really wide)
at sugarloaf there's also the second pitch of Farley. thats an interesting one.
and definately give Self Abuse a go... great route.
at Lover's leap you can hit up Eeyore's Enigma (10a) for the exposed 5.8 overhanging squeeze chimney
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graniteboy
Feb 11, 2009, 12:13 AM
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Once things start melting out in spring, there are a whole slew of chimneys to do...if that's really what you think you need to be doing to train for your Nose Push... People have given you some stuff already, but here's some Donner Summit chimney and or OW list that fits your bill:
Bottomless/Topless (10a)
Inside Out (5.8)
Hair Shirt (5.8)
Rats tooth chimney (flared 5.8)
The OW finish off of lizard ledge (8)
The 5.7 OW finish to Junior Prom (schoolrock)
Minotaur (5.7)
Really, though, I think your problem definitely lies much more in issues of overall speed rather than a single silly pitch of chimney. But Take a lap on Steck-Salathe, though, anyway, even though it's overkill in terms of chimneys....it will get your ass in shape and make you learn to move faster...as I remember, you were looking at a 5 day slog on the nose....If you can daytrip Steck-Salathe...you'll be much more likely to do the nose faster...like 3 to 3.5 days.
Oh, and about Farley, as someone mentioned above...pay attention. Rolf Woolen got killed on that pitch.
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evanwish
Feb 11, 2009, 5:27 AM
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graniteboy wrote: Bottomless/Topless (10a) Inside Out (5.8) Hair Shirt (5.8) Rats tooth chimney (flared 5.8) The OW finish off of lizard ledge (8) The 5.7 OW finish to Junior Prom (schoolrock) Minotaur (5.7) <snip> Oh, and about Farley, as someone mentioned above...pay attention. Rolf Woolen got killed on that pitch.
oh wow thanks for the list! i'll check those out this summer too
yeah i heard about that, how did it happen? loose block?
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dingus
Feb 11, 2009, 5:51 AM
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evanwish wrote: graniteboy wrote: Bottomless/Topless (10a) Inside Out (5.8) Hair Shirt (5.8) Rats tooth chimney (flared 5.8) The OW finish off of lizard ledge (8) The 5.7 OW finish to Junior Prom (schoolrock) Minotaur (5.7) <snip> Oh, and about Farley, as someone mentioned above...pay attention. Rolf Woolen got killed on that pitch. oh wow thanks for the list! i'll check those out this summer too yeah i heard about that, how did it happen? loose block?
Some inspirational photos to get your pulse up:
High on Steck Salathe
Entering the Narrows (Royal Robbins famout bypass to Salathe's nailing pitch)
Getting from ^^^ that position to this
is... thought provoking. Oh and you already have 10 pretty difficult pitches beneath you when you get here... and one more VERY stout 5.9 pitch near the very top.
Phew!
The delicious Topless Bottomless at Donner Summit
Then there is the Brutus of Wyde Advanced Studies in Large Cracks
Note the rackage for this baby
Lovely contortions
Cheers
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Feb 11, 2009, 5:54 AM)
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evanwish
Feb 11, 2009, 6:03 AM
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any chance you'd have a link to that last climb?
looks pretty cool.
ps: nice pictures, but i'm guessing the shasta one's not right?
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natedog
Feb 11, 2009, 6:03 AM
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How about the Cookie? That has a pretty good 5.9 chimney halfway up P1.
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evanwish
Feb 11, 2009, 6:14 AM
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oh nvm i see... yeah the slathe is an amazing looking climb.
and i'm really curious about that last climb for needing that many big bro's.... looks fun!
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salamanizer
Feb 11, 2009, 7:45 AM
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The texas flake is a short 20 or so ft chimney about 3ft wide with a chicken bolt half way up. It's not really something you're going to have to practice for. Better to keep training your hauling and changeover technique than to worry about the little stuff.
This is the only picture I have of the chimney. It's a crappy washed out pic of me following it. Not so scary now is it?
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graniteboy
Feb 11, 2009, 5:59 PM
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In reply to: Oh, and about Farley, as someone mentioned above...pay attention. Rolf Woolen got killed on that pitch. oh wow thanks for the list! i'll check those out this summer too yeah i heard about that, how did it happen? loose block?
As I remember, that guy took a long fall due to poor placement of pro. I think it was about 1991 or so....I reckon you can look it up in Accidents in NA mountaineering. Left a wife and a kid behind.
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le_bruce
Feb 11, 2009, 6:55 PM
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Go to Lower Brother in the Spring, climb Absolutely Free to Hawkman's Escape. Report back.
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styndall
Feb 11, 2009, 6:57 PM
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I really hope one of those big bros on Brutus' harness is secretly a High Life tallboy.
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dingus
Feb 11, 2009, 9:33 PM
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le_bruce wrote: Go to Lower Brother in the Spring, climb Absolutely Free to Hawkman's Escape. Report back.
The prospective Hawkman's leader needs to be able to send a very runnout vertical 5. moderate pitch to get to that chimney. Its a serious route, but a great one. The chimney itself is one of the amazing features of Yosemite is largely unknown.
DMT
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cracklover
Feb 11, 2009, 10:07 PM
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If you want a trial by fire at 5.8 chimney, I suggest... Trial By Fire! It's a single pitch between the starts of Super Slide and Serenity Crack. Bolted anchor at the top.
GO
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le_bruce
Feb 11, 2009, 10:14 PM
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In reply to: The prospective Hawkman's leader needs to be able to send a very runnout vertical 5. moderate pitch to get to that chimney. Its a serious route, but a great one. The chimney itself is one of the amazing features of Yosemite is largely unknown. DMT
Yeah, but before you can even get to the 5.moderate-but-gripping runout that preceeds the chimney, you have to sack through the 5.hardish-on-hollow-overhung-choss crux, which comes 20 ft above a ledge.
Hawkman's is no joke!
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dingus
Feb 12, 2009, 5:03 AM
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le_bruce wrote: In reply to: The prospective Hawkman's leader needs to be able to send a very runnout vertical 5. moderate pitch to get to that chimney. Its a serious route, but a great one. The chimney itself is one of the amazing features of Yosemite is largely unknown. DMT Yeah, but before you can even get to the 5.moderate-but-gripping runout that preceeds the chimney, you have to sack through the 5.hardish-on-hollow-overhung-choss crux, which comes 20 ft above a ledge. Hawkman's is no joke!
No Sir le Bruce, no joke atall. I have sampled the pleasure of Hawkman's 3 times so far.... never a dull moment. That grainy assed white granite after pulling the diorite overhang on the 2nd pitch is something to remember in yer old age.
And that other overhanger, the pitch just after the chimney - merde!
Hawkman's has the Full Valley Experience.
Cheers dude
DMT
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xtrmecat
Feb 12, 2009, 5:00 PM
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I thought about a TR I read in the last month that lists the poster seeing a line of rivets on the west side of the flake if you did not want to chimney. I went in search of the TR and cannot seem to find it. Always another option. It however would be very hard to get on the rivet ladder according to the poster.
Bob
Yea I know, I'm looking for it OK!
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