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mountainjunkie
Feb 6, 2009, 12:38 AM
Post #1 of 18
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You can get your new Jacks Canyon Guide at
http://www.jackscanyon.com/
Joe Garcia
(This post was edited by mountainjunkie on Feb 6, 2009, 1:50 AM)
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sonso45
Feb 6, 2009, 1:07 AM
Post #2 of 18
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Great, I'm gonna be the first on my block to buy the new guide. Maybe get some for gifts too!
I've seen it and it's a great addition and wonderful work by Deidre Burton. Kudos to a great lady.
http://jackscanyon.com
(This post was edited by sonso45 on Feb 6, 2009, 1:16 AM)
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atrocket
Feb 11, 2009, 7:22 PM
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Registered: Sep 22, 2005
Posts: 37
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Got my guide already- its out at the AZ hiking shack now. 
(This post was edited by atrocket on Feb 11, 2009, 7:22 PM)
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anthonypmason
Feb 11, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #4 of 18
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Registered: Apr 27, 2008
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It takes a lot of work, to compille and sort through all of the info for a guide book and kudos on making it, how ever I have climbed at Jacks and would have wished that Jim and Diedra had not used weld shuts for their anchors, personally I would hope that you guys would re-bolt/hanger all of the rusty crappy hangers you placed, from the profits of you're 2nd ed.
I am currently working on area near me that will have some sport and trad routes I figure there is around 30-40 sporty routes and maybe 30+ trad routes, and all of my anchors/hangers will be bomber and it will not be like Jacks(jacked up canyon).
I feel it is important that we as a community do not clip into manky crappy homemade hangers, for one accident could shut down the areas we love to climb in.
Anthony
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elcapinyoazz
Feb 11, 2009, 8:26 PM
Post #5 of 18
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anthonypmason wrote: how ever I have climbed at Jacks and would have wished that Jim and Diedra had not used weld shuts for their anchors, personally I would hope that you guys would re-bolt/hanger all of the rusty crappy hangers you placed, from the profits of you're 2nd ed. I am currently working on area near me that will have some sport and trad routes I figure there is around 30-40 sporty routes and maybe 30+ trad routes, and all of my anchors/hangers will be bomber and it will not be like Jacks(jacked up canyon).
Hey ace, how much money did you give Diedra to help out on hardware costs? My bet is not a red cent.
I'd also bet you didn't donate any bolts, hangers, drill bits, drill, batteries, time, effort or anything else.
"Profits" on a guidebook? Have you ever written and published one? Profits? Are you fucking kidding? They are lucky to recoup their cost and never do if you put any value on time involved.
If you want to upgrade the hardware there, stop bitching, get your ass out there, and start upgrading. Nobody is stopping you.
But it's much easier to complain as you take advantage of other's countless hours of hard work. Wanker.
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hanginaround
Feb 11, 2009, 8:40 PM
Post #6 of 18
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
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Nice bitch slapping!!!
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no_email_entered
Feb 11, 2009, 9:21 PM
Post #7 of 18
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elcapinyoazz wrote: "Profits" on a guidebook? Have you ever written and published one? Profits? Are you fucking kidding? They are lucky to recoup their cost and never do if you put any value on time involved.
word.
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boltgrl
Feb 11, 2009, 10:33 PM
Post #8 of 18
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Registered: Aug 26, 2003
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Mr. Mason: Actually, as i mention in the new guide, other than grooves worn in rap anchors of the dozen or so most toproped routes, there has not been a single failure of any of the "rusty/crappy" hangers that have taken hundreds of falls in the last 15 years.
I would be more than happy to round up a few folks and replace all the cold shuts with hangers that you provide. Please mail them to: PO Box 1002, Winslow, AZ 86047. About 2500 hangers should do it, unless you want to donate more for future new routes.
I hope your new area will be as popular as our "jacked up canyon" and that you will be kept busy replacing anchors for years to come.
As for me, I'll be kickin' it on the beach in Maui, living large on my guidebook loot.
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sonso45
Feb 17, 2009, 12:26 AM
Post #9 of 18
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Got ya, you did it for the money!
Dee, you're right, I'll meet up with you in Maui when you get done bolting that chosspile.
Anthony, chill amigo. Glad to hear you're putting some work in on rock, I'd love to see it someday.
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anthonypmason
Feb 17, 2009, 3:07 AM
Post #10 of 18
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Registered: Apr 27, 2008
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Wow, you really bitch slapped me, who gives a fuck, you must be a sport fucking wanker, and must love clipping rusty homemade weldshuts.
Infact Rock&ice a few years back did a strength test on these type of hangers and found out they were not sufficient for most falls.Hmmm since most new climbers today go into sport climbin' as such and one is promoting an area with deadly anchors I feel it neccessary to alert others of the risk involved. You and the other noobs out there might not think twice clipping into a rusty weld shut, oh I forgot to mention 3/4 of the climbs I have climbed in jacks,the weld shuts are 1/2 worn through, hmmm noobs lowering off of weld shuts. Yea that sounds like fun clip into one these rusty 1/2 sawed through hangers you betcha.
Personally if I go back to Jack's I will bring a crow bar and a generator and a angle grinder to cut off all of the manky crap hanging, and rebolt from the ground up.
UNLIKE JIM ST. who I witnessed rap bolting many a crack in Jacks canyon.
I would love to chop the anchors at jacks but I have a project already working.
Maybe when I retire I'll go to Jacks and chopp all of the crap off those walls.
UNTIL then go fuck your self.
Sincereley,
Anthony Mason x0x0x0xasshole
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lvpyne
Feb 17, 2009, 3:34 AM
Post #11 of 18
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Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 207
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Thanks for the info about the new guide -- I can't wait to check it out. What a ton of work to compile and put that together!
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bkboyd
Feb 17, 2009, 3:49 AM
Post #12 of 18
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Posts: 75
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Ordered mine directly from Diedre via PayPal, and she shipped it out to me quickly -- thank you!
All of the hand drawn topos from the prior editions have been replaced with black and white photos, making routefinding a lot easier. Asylum and Lost World have been added to round out the previously listed walls. Overall, 160 pages of quality info for $22 is hard to beat.
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jt512
Feb 17, 2009, 4:27 AM
Post #13 of 18
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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bkboyd wrote: Ordered mine directly from Diedre via PayPal, and she shipped it out to me quickly -- thank you! All of the hand drawn topos from the prior editions have been replaced with black and white photos, making routefinding a lot easier. Asylum and Lost World have been added to round out the previously listed walls. Overall, 160 pages of quality info for $22 is hard to beat.
A guidebook to the Asylum? Hmmm....
Jay
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elcapinyoazz
Feb 17, 2009, 4:23 PM
Post #14 of 18
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Registered: Nov 8, 2003
Posts: 93
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anthonypmason wrote: one is promoting an area with deadly anchors
Damn. Bodies must be stacked up like cordwood at the base considering how much traffic the place gets. How many corpses did you carry out last time you were at Jack's?
anthonypmason wrote: You and the other noobs out there
Hahaha. I laugh robustly.
(This post was edited by elcapinyoazz on Feb 17, 2009, 4:29 PM)
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no_email_entered
Feb 18, 2009, 4:33 PM
Post #15 of 18
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Registered: Feb 1, 2008
Posts: 558
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anthonypmason wrote: Wow, you really bitch slapped me, who gives a fuck, you must be a sport fucking wanker, and must love clipping rusty homemade weldshuts. Infact Rock&ice a few years back did a strength test on these type of hangers and found out they were not sufficient for most falls.Hmmm since most new climbers today go into sport climbin' as such and one is promoting an area with deadly anchors I feel it neccessary to alert others of the risk involved. You and the other noobs out there might not think twice clipping into a rusty weld shut, oh I forgot to mention 3/4 of the climbs I have climbed in jacks,the weld shuts are 1/2 worn through, hmmm noobs lowering off of weld shuts. Yea that sounds like fun clip into one these rusty 1/2 sawed through hangers you betcha. Personally if I go back to Jack's I will bring a crow bar and a generator and a angle grinder to cut off all of the manky crap hanging, and rebolt from the ground up. UNLIKE JIM ST. who I witnessed rap bolting many a crack in Jacks canyon. I would love to chop the anchors at jacks but I have a project already working. Maybe when I retire I'll go to Jacks and chopp all of the crap off those walls. UNTIL then go fuck your self. Sincereley, Anthony Mason x0x0x0xasshole
just felt like quotin this----
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neotheclimber
Feb 18, 2009, 6:05 PM
Post #16 of 18
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Registered: Nov 12, 2008
Posts: 6
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Don't forget that you can pick up the Guide at AZ Cliff Hanger inside of the PRG (Phoenix Rock Gym)
BTW I love the guide!
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adam14113
Mar 22, 2009, 12:37 AM
Post #17 of 18
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Registered: Aug 14, 2007
Posts: 57
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PRG is the best!
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Bolter
Mar 22, 2009, 12:48 AM
Post #18 of 18
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Registered: Mar 21, 2009
Posts: 50
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Putting new hangers at Jacks will suck too. Those shuts all have a drilled groove that have them a bit counter sunk but keeps them from spinning. I have a few shuts and a wrench and just replace the few that need it.
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