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mem_drifter


Feb 23, 2009, 4:08 PM
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a few concerns
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Im new to sport climbing and weigh around 300lbs. Im just a big guy not really that fat haha. What im wondering if i get into sport climbing and take a good fall do i need to worry about anything because of my weight?

I did try searching on the site but couldn't find anything.


krosbakken


Feb 23, 2009, 4:20 PM
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Re: [mem_drifter] a few concerns [In reply to]
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The only thing I would be concerned about is having a belayer that is a lot small than you in weight.

So...make sure you don't out weight your belayer by a huge amout or your belayer will be pulled into the first bolt if you take a fall, and that could result in some problems.


just my two cents.


mem_drifter


Feb 23, 2009, 4:29 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] a few concerns [In reply to]
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ive talked about anchoring one of my friends to the ground already and he agreed with that idea Wink


coastal_climber


Feb 23, 2009, 4:34 PM
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Re: [mem_drifter] a few concerns [In reply to]
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mem_drifter wrote:
ive talked about anchoring one of my friends to the ground already and he agreed with that idea Wink

Sounds good. Might want to get a thicker rope as well, they hold a higher number of UIAA falls.


(This post was edited by coastal_climber on Feb 23, 2009, 4:34 PM)


krosbakken


Feb 23, 2009, 4:37 PM
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Re: [mem_drifter] a few concerns [In reply to]
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Yes, this is a good idea for sure. But with this set up the fall will be harder on both of you because your belayer doesn't move when you fall. (if this makes sense)

And it might be hard for you belayer to lock you off in a fall because of your weight. (I might be incorrect on all of this, but these are things that pop into my head.)

Can someone that knows what they are talking about give this man some tips? Wink

Just my thoughts. Smile


mem_drifter


Feb 23, 2009, 4:40 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] a few concerns [In reply to]
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all of your tips seem like some very good considerations. As long as everyone thinks the bolts will stay in the wall and the rope will hold it will give a little piece of mind.


johnwesely


Feb 23, 2009, 4:41 PM
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Re: [mem_drifter] a few concerns [In reply to]
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Have your belayer use a Gri-Gri. You will never get a hard catch because of your weight.


kriso9tails


Feb 23, 2009, 4:44 PM
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Re: [mem_drifter] a few concerns [In reply to]
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mem_drifter wrote:
ive talked about anchoring one of my friends to the ground already and he agreed with that idea Wink

I don't tend to agree with that idea. It just makes it harder to belay. When I started leading sport I was a lanky kid weighing perhaps a hundred and ten pounds. Everyone outweighed me by a lot so I learned to belay heavier people pretty quick.

When I weighed around a hundred and sixty to a hundred and seventy, I had belayed (and caught decent falls) for people that outweighed be by over a hundred pounds. Did I get yanked up? Yeah, sure, but what does that actually matter? I pretty much always end up in the air catching a big fall, even when the climber weighs less than me.


USnavy


Feb 23, 2009, 4:45 PM
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Re: [mem_drifter] a few concerns [In reply to]
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As with others, I would recommend a UIAA "multi-drop" certified 10.5 mm rope with a durable sheath and a GriGri for your belayer. I would also recommend quickdraws with a strong open gate strength for the first few bolts. Something that holds 9 kN or higher. The Stubi Supreme and Wild Country Helium are good options.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 23, 2009, 4:48 PM)


andrewG


Feb 23, 2009, 5:17 PM
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Re: [USnavy] a few concerns [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
I would also recommend quickdraws with a strong open gate strength for the first few bolts.

Why? If you are that concerned just put some lockers on a couple of your draws. Just curious. I've never heard of someone buying gear for it's improper use strength ratings.


coastal_climber


Feb 23, 2009, 5:27 PM
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Re: [andrewG] a few concerns [In reply to]
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andrewG wrote:
USnavy wrote:
I would also recommend quickdraws with a strong open gate strength for the first few bolts.

Why? If you are that concerned just put some lockers on a couple of your draws. Just curious. I've never heard of someone buying gear for it's improper use strength ratings.

Gate flutter.


USnavy


Feb 23, 2009, 5:59 PM
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Re: [andrewG] a few concerns [In reply to]
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andrewG wrote:
USnavy wrote:
I would also recommend quickdraws with a strong open gate strength for the first few bolts.

Why? If you are that concerned just put some lockers on a couple of your draws. Just curious. I've never heard of someone buying gear for it's improper use strength ratings.

As others said, because of gate flutter. If he takes a hard fall at the first bolt on some biner with a 7 kN open gate strength, and the gate opens during the fall, it’s over. Impact force skyrockets with weight. That’s why ropes tested at 55 kg hold exponentially more falls then when tested at 80 kg.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 23, 2009, 6:00 PM)


andrewG


Feb 23, 2009, 7:28 PM
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Re: [USnavy] a few concerns [In reply to]
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This is a forum that I read a while back.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...te%20flutter;#410962

This is from BD http://www.bdel.com/...ta/qc_kp_archive.php (towards the bottom under "testing a worn biner")
In reply to:
Partially due to the fact that the test was done with this biner as the only piece of protection in the system (as it would be on the route if someone fell just past the first bolt), there was what we call the whiplash effect, or gate flutter. As the load is impacted, the gate actually flutters open slightly, but at the right time, and just enough that really you are experiencing an open gate situation—this allowed the basket of the gate to bend slightly at the spine end (where the rope groove is). The gate flutter situation may have been more likely because the spring tension on this gate was rather weak and the rope groove of the biner reduced the cross section enough near the spine to allow the basket to deflect more (than if it wasn't rope-worn) during the gate flutter scenario.

I guess from these two things I came to the conclusion that gate flutter is generally not a realistic phenomenon. I also find it hard to believe that gate flutter would cause the gate to open enough to cause the tooth or keylock to not engage at all. Personally none of my biners are grooved, especially not like the one in the BD study (and their gate tensions are not apparently weak). I haven't seen the video referenced in the RC.com thread either.

On the other hand I weigh essentially half of what the OP does. I guess the moral of the story is do what makes you feel safe after doing your own research.


dingus


Feb 23, 2009, 7:41 PM
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Re: [krosbakken] a few concerns [In reply to]
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krosbakken wrote:
The only thing I would be concerned about is having a belayer that is a lot small than you in weight.

So...make sure you don't out weight your belayer by a huge amout or your belayer will be pulled into the first bolt if you take a fall, and that could result in some problems.


just my two cents.

Just how many 300 lb climbers do you think are out there?

DMT


k.l.k


Feb 23, 2009, 8:41 PM
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Re: [mem_drifter] a few concerns [In reply to]
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If you are really 3bills, your chance of getting up any steep sport route is just not that good.

You're going to be slab climbing for awhile. But that's a good thing-- you'll learn how to use your feet.

As for belaying, even top ropes in the gym will be challenging for most belayers. This is not a sport for really big guys. At 6'2" and 180 I routinely hulk over folks at the crag. There are exceptions, but they are exceptions.


suilenroc


Feb 23, 2009, 8:44 PM
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Re: [dingus] a few concerns [In reply to]
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I did a little searching and couldn't find the answer...

The NFPA consider's a 2 person load limit to be 600lbs...

What does the UIAA consider a 1 person load limit is?

I weigh around 185lbs, and have always figured that to be on the heavier side... can't imagine being 300lbs...


USnavy


Feb 23, 2009, 9:03 PM
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suilenroc wrote:
I did a little searching and couldn't find the answer...

The NFPA consider's a 2 person load limit to be 600lbs...

What does the UIAA consider a 1 person load limit is?

I weigh around 185lbs, and have always figured that to be on the heavier side... can't imagine being 300lbs...

UIAA does not specify a specific "load limit". However their specifications are built around the assumption that the climber plus his / her gear weighs 80kg.


coastal_climber


Feb 23, 2009, 9:10 PM
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Hey Mem Drifter, this could be interesting: http://en.petzl.com/...te=14&Conseil=56


suilenroc


Feb 23, 2009, 9:11 PM
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USnavy wrote:
suilenroc wrote:
I did a little searching and couldn't find the answer...

The NFPA consider's a 2 person load limit to be 600lbs...

What does the UIAA consider a 1 person load limit is?

I weigh around 185lbs, and have always figured that to be on the heavier side... can't imagine being 300lbs...

UIAA does not specify a specific "load limit". However their specifications are built around the assumption that the climber plus his / her gear weighs 80kg.

Ahh, I see...I can totally understand why they do not specify a load limit... Thanks!

So, a 300lbs climber is near twice the weight (85%?) that the gear was tested for.?.?.?

I'd be concerned... Not really with TRing, with leading for sure!


USnavy


Feb 23, 2009, 9:22 PM
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suilenroc wrote:
USnavy wrote:
suilenroc wrote:
I did a little searching and couldn't find the answer...

The NFPA consider's a 2 person load limit to be 600lbs...

What does the UIAA consider a 1 person load limit is?

I weigh around 185lbs, and have always figured that to be on the heavier side... can't imagine being 300lbs...

UIAA does not specify a specific "load limit". However their specifications are built around the assumption that the climber plus his / her gear weighs 80kg.

Ahh, I see...I can totally understand why they do not specify a load limit... Thanks!

So, a 300lbs climber is near twice the weight (85%?) that the gear was tested for.?.?.?

I'd be concerned... Not really with TRing, with leading for sure!

The equipment is designed in mind to hold a factor two fall with a 80 kg person. A 150 kg person taking a factor .75 fall would produce less force then a 80 kg person taking a factor two fall. The quickdraws you use will hold a minimal of 22 kN in the close gate position and UIAA certified hangers hold at least 25 kN. So would not worry too much about it. I would choose a multi-drop certified rope so it lasts a reasonable amount of time.


coastal_climber


Feb 23, 2009, 9:32 PM
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USnavy wrote:
suilenroc wrote:
USnavy wrote:
suilenroc wrote:
I did a little searching and couldn't find the answer...

The NFPA consider's a 2 person load limit to be 600lbs...

What does the UIAA consider a 1 person load limit is?

I weigh around 185lbs, and have always figured that to be on the heavier side... can't imagine being 300lbs...

UIAA does not specify a specific "load limit". However their specifications are built around the assumption that the climber plus his / her gear weighs 80kg.

Ahh, I see...I can totally understand why they do not specify a load limit... Thanks!

So, a 300lbs climber is near twice the weight (85%?) that the gear was tested for.?.?.?

I'd be concerned... Not really with TRing, with leading for sure!

The equipment is designed in mind to hold a factor two fall with a 80 kg person. A 150 kg person taking a factor .75 fall would produce less force then a 80 kg person taking a factor two fall. The quickdraws you use will hold a minimal of 22 kN in the close gate position and UIAA certified hangers hold at least 25 kN. So would not worry too much about it. I would choose a multi-drop certified rope so it lasts a reasonable amount of time.

I think its fall factor of 1.7 but its still way over what would normally occur in most climbing situations.


USnavy


Feb 23, 2009, 9:42 PM
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coastal_climber wrote:
USnavy wrote:
suilenroc wrote:
USnavy wrote:
suilenroc wrote:
I did a little searching and couldn't find the answer...

The NFPA consider's a 2 person load limit to be 600lbs...

What does the UIAA consider a 1 person load limit is?

I weigh around 185lbs, and have always figured that to be on the heavier side... can't imagine being 300lbs...

UIAA does not specify a specific "load limit". However their specifications are built around the assumption that the climber plus his / her gear weighs 80kg.

Ahh, I see...I can totally understand why they do not specify a load limit... Thanks!

So, a 300lbs climber is near twice the weight (85%?) that the gear was tested for.?.?.?

I'd be concerned... Not really with TRing, with leading for sure!

The equipment is designed in mind to hold a factor two fall with a 80 kg person. A 150 kg person taking a factor .75 fall would produce less force then a 80 kg person taking a factor two fall. The quickdraws you use will hold a minimal of 22 kN in the close gate position and UIAA certified hangers hold at least 25 kN. So would not worry too much about it. I would choose a multi-drop certified rope so it lasts a reasonable amount of time.

I think its fall factor of 1.7 but its still way over what would normally occur in most climbing situations.

Its a factor 1.77 fall however the hangers and quickdraws are still designed to hold a factor 2 fall.


coastal_climber


Feb 23, 2009, 9:46 PM
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I know, but that's what ropes are tested to. It comes down to the weakest link.


suilenroc


Feb 23, 2009, 10:17 PM
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coastal_climber wrote:
I know, but that's what ropes are tested to. It comes down to the weakest link.

Probably the quality of rock or the person who put the bolts in...


coastal_climber


Feb 23, 2009, 10:19 PM
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suilenroc wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
I know, but that's what ropes are tested to. It comes down to the weakest link.

Probably the quality of rock or the person who put the bolts in...

One of many risks we take.

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