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adam3
Feb 24, 2009, 7:17 PM
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Just curious what setup you big wallers use to attach your portaledges. Just a perfect hex?? two nuts?? equalized?? anywho just bored at work and wondering how its done.
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coastal_climber
Feb 24, 2009, 7:21 PM
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Bomber multi-directional anchor. All your shit is hanging from this point all night, and chances are you are belaying from this anchor as well.
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russwalling
Feb 24, 2009, 7:43 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: Bomber multi-directional anchor. All your shit is hanging from this point all night, and chances are you are belaying from this anchor as well.
not really. If all your shit is hanging from one point you will have a giant clusterfuk.
Hang your ledge from any one of the many fat bolts that litter the ElCap belays these days. The "powerpoint" thing is way overdone, and is usually not the best way to make it all happen.
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johnwesely
Feb 24, 2009, 7:47 PM
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Hanging from one hex all night. scary.
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budman
Feb 25, 2009, 12:25 AM
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Can't say as I'm as experienced as some here but have spent a few nights on the stone in comfort. Ending the day and preparing for the evening starts with being able to get at things and not fighting with the system. Usually have the ledge on a separate piece or two, a bolt is really nice. It's only body weight unless you get into bad weather and the ledge is jumping around. Then an equalized separate anchor would be nice. I always backup the ledge anchor to the main anchor that your tied into, don't want to lose the ledge if you and it go for a ride during the night. I don't care what piece or pieces are used as long as they are A1 placements.
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ncclimber
Feb 25, 2009, 4:58 AM
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krusher4 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Hanging from one hex all night. scary. sounds bomber to me 
One of my climbing partners was pissed about or set up one night on PO, found a fixed Lost Arrow 15 feet right of the belay clipped his ledge in and went to bed with another word.
But i'm sure the are scarier stories out their of ledges hanging off hooks.
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salamanizer
Feb 25, 2009, 8:00 AM
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johnwesely wrote: Hanging from one hex all night. scary.
Yeah?
I watched a guy hang his ledge from an old copperhead all night just to avoid any cluster at the main anchor. He was backed up to a bolt, 15ft away though. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure it was an alumihead.
We drank to that!!!
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johnwesely
Feb 25, 2009, 1:12 PM
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salamanizer wrote: johnwesely wrote: Hanging from one hex all night. scary. Yeah? I watched a guy hang his ledge from an old copperhead all night just to avoid any cluster at the main anchor. He was backed up to a bolt, 15ft away though. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure it was an alumihead. We drank to that!!!
That would have been a helluva wake up call pendulum swing.
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camhead
Feb 25, 2009, 1:20 PM
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salamanizer wrote: johnwesely wrote: Hanging from one hex all night. scary. Yeah? I watched a guy hang his ledge from an old copperhead all night just to avoid any cluster at the main anchor. He was backed up to a bolt, 15ft away though. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure it was an alumihead. We drank to that!!!
word.
I have heard of teams with multiple ledges having contests to see who could hang their ledge from the shittiest anchor point and still make it through the night. This is with everything backed up, of course.
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avalon420
Feb 25, 2009, 1:45 PM
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camhead wrote: salamanizer wrote: johnwesely wrote: Hanging from one hex all night. scary. Yeah? I watched a guy hang his ledge from an old copperhead all night just to avoid any cluster at the main anchor. He was backed up to a bolt, 15ft away though. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure it was an alumihead. We drank to that!!! word. I have heard of teams with multiple ledges having contests to see who could hang their ledge from the shittiest anchor point and still make it through the night. This is with everything backed up, of course. 
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dingus
Feb 25, 2009, 2:54 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Here's how Wolfy rolled:
Riders on the Storm, Patagonia.
Notice the mulitdirectional figure 8....
Power point? We don't need no stinkin powerpoint!
DMT
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tomtom
Feb 25, 2009, 4:56 PM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2004
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Duct tape a bat hook to a couple crystals and you should be good to go.
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xtrmecat
Feb 25, 2009, 10:33 PM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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What Russ said. I spread out what I need and when it is time to deploy the motel, I find an off to the side bolt, nut, cam, solid something, and set up, crawl in, shift around, and zonk out. You are tied in to the main anchor though.
Bob
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tallnik
Mar 2, 2009, 10:28 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2004
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I'll second that.
Nik
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iamthewallress
Mar 2, 2009, 11:09 PM
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When I climb walls w/ my bf we have a little thing that we like to do...whoever gets the last solo time at the bivy for the day (either the last leader if we're not fixing or the belayer if we are) tries to have the bivy set up before the other person gets back from doing their thing.
If portaledges are involved, my relative lack of urinary aim usually makes it best for my ledge to go on the bottom if we're stacked or near the ledge/foothold if we're not.
So, one night last summer I was relieved to see a masterful flotilla of ledges assembled with relevant bivy items clipped to them when I arrived at the the belay. Positioning my ledge for the best girl-peeing realm (and stuff-organizing ledgelet) meant that I was off from the main anchor.
As I went to get into my ledge, he mentioned that I might freak out when I saw the ledge anchor:
But then assured me that there were great (#3 and 4 camalot) cams behind it. I was worth the picture though.
(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Mar 2, 2009, 11:14 PM)
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