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lagwagonpcp


Feb 27, 2009, 9:58 AM
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what to add, rack
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i just got my rei dividend and wanted to put it toward my rack.
so far i have
a set of bd nuts,
b.d. hexs 6-9,
pink and red tricams
size 2 t.c.u.
size 3-5 power cams(metolius like the t.c.u. but with four lobes)
size 1-2 camlots
and a size 1 link cam

i'm curious what others out there would add to this. i was thinking 00-1 t.c.u.s, but i haven't really decided yet and i'm curious what others would do.


coastal_climber


Feb 27, 2009, 10:15 AM
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More C4's


bill413


Feb 27, 2009, 10:21 AM
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I'd add the next two larger tircams, and maybe double up on red & pink.

I find I use those a lot in the Gunks.


granite_grrl


Feb 27, 2009, 10:50 AM
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Your rack really isn't too bad right now, you can climb a lot with what you've got. But without going overboard you could get probobly one or two more larger and smaller cams. I'd look at getting a #3 C4 and/or a #1 TCU. Both are well used cams on my rack.

Otherwise I'd make sure you have all the slings and biners you need and what kind of condition your rope and shoes are in (will they need replacing soon).


jman


Feb 27, 2009, 11:02 AM
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Have you used your rack yet? IMO you have a pretty good pro set up as it is. I'd try it out and see which pieces you'd like to have double of. I like my small TCU's. Not a fan of the larger one because I have felt that they have a tendency to walk. When I go to the Gunks, I double up on my pink tricam and .5 to 1 cams.


moose_droppings


Feb 27, 2009, 11:11 AM
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Well, it depends, as always. You got a good start.

You might want to get the #1 and #3 TCU. Forget about the #0 and #00 TCU for now. Your gonna need some larger stuff eventually so go for a #3 C4 or some of the larger FCU's, which ever, your preference.

After filling the holes in your rack you'll find a need for doubles in some sizes that get used the most. You'll know better than anybody by then what you'll need. If you go to double up on nuts, think about a different brand. The small differences in sizes and shapes will give you more placement options than just another set of BD nuts


lagwagonpcp


Feb 27, 2009, 11:19 AM
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yes i have used my rack(would suck if i hadnt) i find that i use a variety of the pieces from the pink tricams to the giant hex, and cams of all sizes. my rope,shoes, etc are all fine(i did have my eye on those scarpa techos) so i cant justify purchasing anything but protection or a bit of camping gear.

thanks for the help so far, great feedback


caliclimbergrl


Feb 27, 2009, 11:25 AM
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I have a pair of scarpa technos and I really like them (though I still like my mythos better).

What kind of shoes do you have now and how well are they working. If you already have at least 2 pairs of shoes you like, I'd buy more BD cams. You only have one pair of shoes you like, I'd go with the scarpas so you have something to climb in when your shoes need to be resoled.


lagwagonpcp


Feb 27, 2009, 11:36 AM
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yep got two pairs, Smile the techos looked really nice i had to stop myself from trying them on or i might have picked up a third pair of shoes for the extra set of feet i dont have.


Partner cracklover


Feb 27, 2009, 11:36 AM
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I wouldn't buy the blue tricam, and I wouldn't buy doubles, but I would definitely buy the brown tricam.

Aside from that, maybe the #3 camalot, but that's less important.

GO


caliclimbergrl


Feb 27, 2009, 11:39 AM
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Really? I would totally get the #3 over any tricam. And I've taken my tricams off my rack entirely because I NEVER placed them when they were on there. I place my #3 all the time!! But I don't climb on the east coast -- I guess tricams are more useful out there. Hardly anyone out here has them.


caliclimbergrl


Feb 27, 2009, 11:41 AM
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lagwagonpcp wrote:
yep got two pairs, Smile the techos looked really nice i had to stop myself from trying them on or i might have picked up a third pair of shoes for the extra set of feet i dont have.

LOL -- I can relate to that ... they were my 3rd pair! But in my defense both of my other pairs are mythos. One is 1/2 a size bigger than the other so I wear the bigger ones when it's hot and my feet swell or when it's really cold and I want to wear thin socks under them. And when I send one in to get resoled, I can't be without a pair of mythos! But I really like the scarpas too ...


patmay81


Feb 27, 2009, 12:08 PM
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caliclimbergrl wrote:
Really? I would totally get the #3 over any tricam. And I've taken my tricams off my rack entirely because I NEVER placed them when they were on there. I place my #3 all the time!! But I don't climb on the east coast -- I guess tricams are more useful out there. Hardly anyone out here has them.
I swear cali, im not following you around responding to your texts, its purely coincidental.
I use my tricams quite a bit, but not enough to warrant doubles or really having them for that matter (so i guess your right).
as for rack suggestions, others have hit it on the nose, more tcu's and or c4s if your looking at pro. a double set of nuts is usefull for really long thin pitches, otherwise id rather have an extra cam.


caliclimbergrl


Feb 27, 2009, 12:11 PM
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patmay81 wrote:
I use my tricams quite a bit, but not enough to warrant doubles or really having them for that matter (so i guess your right).
as for rack suggestions, others have hit it on the nose, more tcu's and or c4s if your looking at pro. a double set of nuts is usefull for really long thin pitches, otherwise id rather have an extra cam.

I think the tricams vs. cams debate seems to be an east coast/west coast thing. I have some friends that moved here from the east coast and they seem to have retired their tricams too after a year climbing out here. I'm sure if you have them, you can find places to put them, but I think cams are more useful out here. Since the OP is in New Jersey, maybe he should invest in more tricams. But since I've never climbed there, that's totally not my first inclination!

And no worries -- I know you're not internet stalking me ... it's not totally shocking that two trad climbers would be attracted to threads about gear and such! ;)


evanwish


Feb 27, 2009, 3:02 PM
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definately more C4's
maybe some larger sizes


yodadave


Feb 27, 2009, 3:19 PM
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caliclimbergrl wrote:
Really? I would totally get the #3 over any tricam. And I've taken my tricams off my rack entirely because I NEVER placed them when they were on there.

To the OP i second the slings suggestion, all the pro in the world doesn't matter if you can't use it. Otherwise i agree with the cams suggestions.

More importantly climber girl please feel free to send the tricams you and your friends never use back to the east coast where they belong, you can PM me for a mailing address Wink pleaseAngelic


kennoyce


Feb 27, 2009, 3:22 PM
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In reply to:
I think the tricams vs. cams debate seems to be an east coast/west coast thing

This is so true. The only real use for I tricam that I have ever seen is in limestone pockets, but pocketed limestone is always bolted. I climb on the west coast, and I would buy cams over tricams any day, and have passed up perfectly bootyable tricams on several occasions because I just didn't want them. On the other hand, I am always hearing from east coast climbers that tricams are the shiz. I guess I will have to climb on the east coast to really understand what they are talking about.

To answer the OP's question, Personally I would get the blue TCU, and some larger C4's like numbers 3 and 4, or I would double up on C4's from .5 to 2.


lagwagonpcp


Feb 27, 2009, 4:03 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] what to add, rack [In reply to]
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i just got my two tricams(red and pink as a v-day gift) and used them the last time i was on lead, they where the first two pieces i placed . that said i dont think i would buy any larger than the first four sizes, and i dont think im going to double up on anything yet. im leaning toward a few more cams.(even considering the shoes haha)
again thanks for the help


edit to add. i have plenty of sling and biners( ten trad draws, and extra biners lockers etc) and im mindful of when i need more


(This post was edited by lagwagonpcp on Feb 27, 2009, 4:08 PM)


sungam


Feb 27, 2009, 9:48 PM
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MOAR NUTZ!


ken21il


Feb 28, 2009, 8:03 AM
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jman wrote:
Have you used your rack yet? IMO you have a pretty good pro set up as it is. I'd try it out and see which pieces you'd like to have double of. I like my small TCU's. Not a fan of the larger one because I have felt that they have a tendency to walk. When I go to the Gunks, I double up on my pink tricam and .5 to 1 cams.

It sounds like someone has a shinny rack!


lagwagonpcp


Feb 28, 2009, 7:29 PM
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ken, thanks for the help ill leyt you know when i need to polish my rackSly 1yoself
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coastal_climber


Feb 28, 2009, 8:01 PM
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I just traded in my Technos for some 5.10 Verdes. The Techno's whole tow was peeling after about 10 days on the rock...


Partner cracklover


Mar 1, 2009, 5:23 PM
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Re: [caliclimbergrl] what to add, rack [In reply to]
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caliclimbergrl wrote:
Really? I would totally get the #3 over any tricam. And I've taken my tricams off my rack entirely because I NEVER placed them when they were on there. I place my #3 all the time!! But I don't climb on the east coast -- I guess tricams are more useful out there. Hardly anyone out here has them.

The OP lives in NJ. By far the best place to trad climb if you live in NJ is the Gunks. In the bottoming horizontals, tricams are the shiznit. Also, in many areas at the Gunks, you get chunky pebbles sticking out all over, and the nose of a tricam fits nicely behind these, where they would just make a small cam fit very poorly.

West coast granite is nothing like the Gunks.

Also, I know lots of people who climbed for years at the Gunks without a #3 Camalot. There was a thread on Gunks.com a while ago about this topic, and people had a very difficult time coming up with more than a couple of climbs that required a #3 Camalot.

I didn't buy one until my first trip out west.

Cheers,

GO


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