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kenstin21


Mar 10, 2009, 2:51 PM
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can't make it to the anchor
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Ive been doing a lot of research on trad climbing but one thing i cant seem to figure out is how to get down a climb (over hanging or flat) with all of you gear if you cant get to the anchor (cant top rope it either)? Or if you take a fall and end up 10 feet below an over hang, how would u be able to get back up to the climb?

so if you guys could give me some info or what to do in these situations that would be awesome?

and there's no need for posts like " stupid question, you need to do more research etc, Just post useful info


lucaskrajnik


Mar 10, 2009, 3:03 PM
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Re: [kenstin21] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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You would HAVE to leave "booty"


(This post was edited by lucaskrajnik on Mar 10, 2009, 3:08 PM)


kenstin21


Mar 10, 2009, 3:05 PM
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Re: [lucaskrajnik] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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whats that mean


shockabuku


Mar 10, 2009, 3:05 PM
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Re: [kenstin21] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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Aid climb.


lucaskrajnik


Mar 10, 2009, 3:07 PM
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Re: [kenstin21] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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booty=some type of climbing gear, left on a route.


sungam


Mar 10, 2009, 3:08 PM
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Re: [kenstin21] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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You can boink back up to your last piece by pulling up on the rope to put some slack in it by your waist, then when you let go have your belayer take in said slack. Repeat ad infinitem to get to your last piece.

I think I'd have second thoughts on trad boinking, given natural pro's proclivity to... roam when affected by the rope.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Mar 11, 2009, 3:43 PM)


moose_droppings


Mar 10, 2009, 3:19 PM
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Re: [kenstin21] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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Sometimes you can down aid, back cleaning as you go, that way you don't leave any gear.
If your hanging in space, you can have your belayer lower you enough till you get back to the wall or can swing back to the wall. If you haven't got enough rope for that option, you'd better have a couple of extra runners or prusiks and know how to use them, or have an extra crafty belayer


Partner angry


Mar 10, 2009, 3:27 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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You can almost always down aid. There's no need to leave anything. You can usually do this with only the gear in the rock and two 2ft slings.

You'll occasionally need to make a couple free moves in reverse but you made it through that section on lead so you should be capable.


jeepnphreak


Mar 10, 2009, 4:44 PM
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Re: [kenstin21] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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Well if I cant not make it to an anchor I try to down aid if at all possible.
If thats not going to work, I use pre booted gear that I fixed up, to it almost free to leave, side from some fresh webbing


majid_sabet


Mar 10, 2009, 5:07 PM
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Re: [angry] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
You can almost always down aid. There's no need to leave anything. You can usually do this with only the gear in the rock and two 2ft slings.

You'll occasionally need to make a couple free moves in reverse but you made it through that section on lead so you should be capable.

I know nothing about down AID

how do you do it (step by step) ?

explain Mr nosemite


adatesman


Mar 10, 2009, 5:28 PM
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Partner angry


Mar 10, 2009, 5:46 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
angry wrote:
You can almost always down aid. There's no need to leave anything. You can usually do this with only the gear in the rock and two 2ft slings.

You'll occasionally need to make a couple free moves in reverse but you made it through that section on lead so you should be capable.

I know nothing about down AID

how do you do it (step by step) ?

explain Mr nosemite

From the tone of your post I surmise that you're convinced that I'm wrong.

You don't try as many hard routes as I do without getting shut down occasionally. So many of them are too hard for my partner to follow and too steep to lower off of, even when you do get to the anchor.

If you can't figure out how to down aid with just two 2' slings, then you're going to leave gear. It's part of the learning process. I'm not here to teach a class.

This summer when I sent my OW proj not only did I down-aid it, I never put anchors on it at all. It would destroy a rope to lower down and would be nearly impossible to follow because of a toprope in your way. My belayer is a 30+ year veteran and super avid FA'ist and he'd never seen a roof downaided until then. So maybe it's not common knowledge.

Like I said earlier though, I'm not going to put it to writing. It's not my job.


majid_sabet


Mar 10, 2009, 5:47 PM
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Re: [adatesman] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
angry wrote:
You can almost always down aid. There's no need to leave anything. You can usually do this with only the gear in the rock and two 2ft slings.

You'll occasionally need to make a couple free moves in reverse but you made it through that section on lead so you should be capable.

I know nothing about down AID

how do you do it (step by step) ?

explain Mr nosemite

You and Angry on the outs again, Majid? Otherwise I don't see why you're poking him like that.

I just want to learn how down aid and I think as n00b, I have a right to learn .


Partner angry


Mar 10, 2009, 6:08 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
adatesman wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
angry wrote:
You can almost always down aid. There's no need to leave anything. You can usually do this with only the gear in the rock and two 2ft slings.

You'll occasionally need to make a couple free moves in reverse but you made it through that section on lead so you should be capable.

I know nothing about down AID

how do you do it (step by step) ?

explain Mr nosemite

You and Angry on the outs again, Majid? Otherwise I don't see why you're poking him like that.

I just want to learn how down aid and I think as n00b, I have a right to learn .

You have a right to research. You have a right to ask. You have a right to theorize. You have a right experiment. You have a right to lose gear.

Learning may also be your right.

It's my right not to post instructions that may or may not be understood correctly on the knob.

And Majid, I climbed 31 pitches yesterday with my hurt finger, what'd you do with yours?


adatesman


Mar 10, 2009, 6:22 PM
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Partner angry


Mar 10, 2009, 6:30 PM
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Re: [adatesman] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
angry wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
adatesman wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
angry wrote:
You can almost always down aid. There's no need to leave anything. You can usually do this with only the gear in the rock and two 2ft slings.

You'll occasionally need to make a couple free moves in reverse but you made it through that section on lead so you should be capable.

I know nothing about down AID

how do you do it (step by step) ?

explain Mr nosemite

You and Angry on the outs again, Majid? Otherwise I don't see why you're poking him like that.

I just want to learn how down aid and I think as n00b, I have a right to learn .

You have a right to research. You have a right to ask. You have a right to theorize. You have a right experiment. You have a right to lose gear.

Learning may also be your right.

It's my right not to post instructions that may or may not be understood correctly on the knob.

And Majid, I climbed 31 pitches yesterday with my hurt finger, what'd you do with yours?

Hey Angry,

Didn't I just thank you for not poking back?

Sigh.

$5 on Angry winning this round.

I have not yet begun to poke.


spikeddem


Mar 10, 2009, 6:36 PM
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Re: [angry] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
adatesman wrote:
angry wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
adatesman wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
angry wrote:
You can almost always down aid. There's no need to leave anything. You can usually do this with only the gear in the rock and two 2ft slings.

You'll occasionally need to make a couple free moves in reverse but you made it through that section on lead so you should be capable.

I know nothing about down AID

how do you do it (step by step) ?

explain Mr nosemite

You and Angry on the outs again, Majid? Otherwise I don't see why you're poking him like that.

I just want to learn how down aid and I think as n00b, I have a right to learn .

You have a right to research. You have a right to ask. You have a right to theorize. You have a right experiment. You have a right to lose gear.

Learning may also be your right.

It's my right not to post instructions that may or may not be understood correctly on the knob.

And Majid, I climbed 31 pitches yesterday with my hurt finger, what'd you do with yours?

Hey Angry,

Didn't I just thank you for not poking back?

Sigh.

$5 on Angry winning this round.

I have not yet begun to poke.

I said the very same thing to my GF this weekend. She was rather relieved.


Partner angry


Mar 10, 2009, 6:40 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
angry wrote:
adatesman wrote:
angry wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
adatesman wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
angry wrote:
You can almost always down aid. There's no need to leave anything. You can usually do this with only the gear in the rock and two 2ft slings.

You'll occasionally need to make a couple free moves in reverse but you made it through that section on lead so you should be capable.

I know nothing about down AID

how do you do it (step by step) ?

explain Mr nosemite

You and Angry on the outs again, Majid? Otherwise I don't see why you're poking him like that.

I just want to learn how down aid and I think as n00b, I have a right to learn .

You have a right to research. You have a right to ask. You have a right to theorize. You have a right experiment. You have a right to lose gear.

Learning may also be your right.

It's my right not to post instructions that may or may not be understood correctly on the knob.

And Majid, I climbed 31 pitches yesterday with my hurt finger, what'd you do with yours?

Hey Angry,

Didn't I just thank you for not poking back?

Sigh.

$5 on Angry winning this round.

I have not yet begun to poke.

I said the very same thing to my GF this weekend. She was rather relieved.

Really? So did I.


adatesman


Mar 10, 2009, 6:49 PM
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Partner angry


Mar 10, 2009, 7:13 PM
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Re: [adatesman] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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Your leap in logic doesn't make a lot of sense. I'd expect more from an engineer.


rschap


Mar 10, 2009, 7:15 PM
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I have my old set of Trango nuts that I've been replacing with new nuts as I leave them behind (those damn things get stuck 9 times out of 10 anyways), doesnít happen often but it does. After those are all gone I have an extensive collection of nuts I collected in Yosemite. If youíre ever looking for booty gear Yosemite 5.8, 5.9 is the place to get it, lots of people think they can climb those because theyíve climbed a 5.10 back home but itís a little different in the Valley.


rschap


Mar 10, 2009, 7:16 PM
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Re: [angry] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
Your leap in logic doesn't make a lot of sense. I'd expect more from an engineer.




Apparently you donít know many engineers.


adatesman


Mar 10, 2009, 7:42 PM
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Partner angry


Mar 10, 2009, 7:53 PM
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Re: [adatesman] can't make it to the anchor [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
angry wrote:
Your leap in logic doesn't make a lot of sense. I'd expect more from an engineer.

True, it was a bit of a stretch but the logic does follow. I'd chart it out for you, but like you I'm not here to write documentation for the n00bs. Wink

Oh, and 10 points if you can name the movie I'm referencing, which explains the leap in logic between Angry's, um, personal preference and footwear.

I can't reference that movie. I'll just pull the basic internet answer to everything and say its "The Big Lebowski".


Partner angry


Mar 10, 2009, 7:54 PM
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How many more posts before we get a totally random serious reply here?

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