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Lazlo
Mar 18, 2009, 4:31 PM
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What would be your most dreamy first ascent you'd like to put up?
Would it be sport, trad, rap-bolt, ground-up, slab, over-hung, ect?
I would love an overhanging aid route, at least five pitches in length (or manageable in one day at a semi-relaxed but efficient pace) in the cleanest of styles/no bolts. It would go at hard C2.
No haul bag, no bivy. Back in town for beer.
Oh, and it has to have a great vista the entire time.
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angry
Mar 18, 2009, 4:40 PM
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I actually put up one of my dream FA's this last summer.
Overhanging offwidth, in a beautiful area, one of the hardest in the world, striking/terrifying to look at, and when I found it, I wasn't much of an offwidth climber.
The 5 year journey to finally be able to climb that thing was amazing.
Imagine how cool it would be to have found Moonlight Buttress or Astroman though.
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Lazlo
Mar 18, 2009, 4:48 PM
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angry wrote: I actually put up one of my dream FA's this last summer. Overhanging offwidth, in a beautiful area, one of the hardest in the world, striking/terrifying to look at, and when I found it, I wasn't much of an offwidth climber. The 5 year journey to finally be able to climb that thing was amazing. Imagine how cool it would be to have found Moonlight Buttress or Astroman though.
That's awesome! I'm jealous. What did you name it?
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angry
Mar 18, 2009, 5:10 PM
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My working name for it was "Blue Steel" because the first time I came across it I was like "OH my god, it's beautiful"
When I finally pulled it, I felt that due to it's nature and steepness, it warranted a bit of "reality". link
FYI, I found a super steep and super thin finger crack 2 years ago that I've been reluctant to try because I know it could be an entire season or two project (probably 13ish). I just found out that Rob Pism knows where it is, so I'll be on it next week. There's also an offwidth in IC that should be on par with Bellyful but fist/fist stacks instead of hand/hand. It's also got weird bulges to work around. I'm having a hard time heading out there considering my finger injury but a failure on that wouldn't be because of my finger so I should just cowboy up.
The funny thing is, I'm only after the best of the best routes. Most of them have been climbed, some of them haven't. My goal isn't to do a bunch of FA's. My goal is to climb awesome routes, sometimes that leads to an FA.
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Gmburns2000
Mar 18, 2009, 5:11 PM
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Lazlo wrote: I would love an overhanging aid route, at least five pitches in length (or manageable in one day at a semi-relaxed but efficient pace) in the cleanest of styles/no bolts. It would go at hard C2. No haul bag, no bivy. Back in town for beer. Oh, and it has to have a great vista the entire time.
Heh, mine would be the opposite. I don't have the skills at this point, but I'm hoping to build them over time.
I, too, would want a great view the whole time, but I'd rather put up some super long route that takes days to complete. The whole idea of getting away from everything like that is very appealing to me.
The route doesn't even have to be technically difficult. It only has to be difficult enough for folks to not be around. I guess that includes the approach, too.
BTW - if I gain new skills, I know exactly where I might get my opportunity.
PS - I'm not tellin' either 
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 18, 2009, 5:47 PM
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To be honest, I'm not interested in an FA. If one fell into my lap, I would be psyched, but I have no interest in seeking one out. I just love to climb great routes and I do not get to climb as much as I would like. So many people have already done the work for me and have put up so many amazing routes, that I don't think I would able to compete with that.
Seeking out and putting up a quality FA takes a lot of work, time, sometimes $, and dedication. I don't feel like I have any of that. So I will continue to climb great routes put up by some amazing climbers, but if anyone has a tip on some amazing finger crack, let me know.
Josh
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IsayAutumn
Mar 18, 2009, 6:00 PM
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North Ridge of Latok I. I feel like my skills are right where they need to be, I just have to find the time to take off of work.
I might need to do it in the winter, but either way I feel like it'll go.
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rockandlice
Mar 18, 2009, 6:15 PM
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For me, I like either trad or mixed FA's established ground up. They don't have to be incredibly difficult, just good quality rock, fun/interesting moves and aesthetic.
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granite_grrl
Mar 18, 2009, 6:35 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: To be honest, I'm not interested in an FA. If one fell into my lap, I would be psyched, but I have no interest in seeking one out. I just love to climb great routes and I do not get to climb as much as I would like. So many people have already done the work for me and have put up so many amazing routes, that I don't think I would able to compete with that. Seeking out and putting up a quality FA takes a lot of work, time, sometimes $, and dedication. I don't feel like I have any of that. So I will continue to climb great routes put up by some amazing climbers, but if anyone has a tip on some amazing finger crack, let me know. Josh
Why do you think you'd be competing? You'd be complementing and adding.
Ideal FA for me?
I don't have very impressive skills right now so I would imagine some back water, multipitch classic which would draw attention to the area.
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dingus
Mar 18, 2009, 6:51 PM
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Lazlo wrote: What would be your most dreamy first ascent you'd like to put up? Would it be sport, trad, rap-bolt, ground-up, slab, over-hung, ect?
I would like to find or rediscover a virtually unknown formation in my local mountains. I would enjoy researching it, only to discover there is no documentation of the formation, no known routes.
I think it would be a blast to recruit some of my closest climbing partners and friends to walk in there and give it a go.
With these blokes I'd want it to be something big - say a thousand feet tall, vertical or better, with a summit and an awesome basecamp in a grassy meadow at the base of the wall.
We would suss out the best possibilities. We would agree on a line to attempt. We would give it a go.
We might advance and retreat a time or two - we're not rich people and we have to work for a living.
But at the end of whole deal, ideally speaking, we'd have one or more new routes, and not have blabbed the location to the whole world so time and fitness permitting, we could go back on our own schedule to do more.
Yes, this would be my dream FA. If I was nice perhaps the artist amongst my partners would take a simple ink pen and a scrap piece of paper and make me a killer drawing of this thing?
Yes, this would be my dream FA. I have a few other dreams in play as well..... well, lots of them, now that I think about it.
Cheers
DMT
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dingus
Mar 18, 2009, 6:54 PM
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angry wrote: The funny thing is, I'm only after the best of the best routes. Most of them have been climbed, some of them haven't. My goal isn't to do a bunch of FA's. My goal is to climb awesome routes, sometimes that leads to an FA.
You stand shoulder to shoulder with some PROUD company, with an attitude like that!
DMT
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jeremy11
Mar 18, 2009, 6:55 PM
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Lazlo wrote: I would love an overhanging aid route, at least five pitches in length (or manageable in one day at a semi-relaxed but efficient pace) in the cleanest of styles/no bolts. It would go at hard C2. Rope solo.
Have to agree with you on that one.
Or a moderate free line up a tower for the first ascent of the tower, or a big easy alpine free line in the Weminuche.
But really, any good natural line that needs to be done, that is within my ability. Sometimes grungy offwidth, sometimes slab, handcrack, or thin aid, short or tall.
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Lazlo
Mar 18, 2009, 7:09 PM
Post #13 of 33
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dingus wrote: Lazlo wrote: What would be your most dreamy first ascent you'd like to put up? Would it be sport, trad, rap-bolt, ground-up, slab, over-hung, ect? I would like to find or rediscover a virtually unknown formation in my local mountains. I would enjoy researching it, only to discover there is no documentation of the formation, no known routes. I think it would be a blast to recruit some of my closest climbing partners and friends to walk in there and give it a go. [IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Misc/138-3815_IMG_800x600.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Misc/138-3822_IMG_800x600.jpg[/IMG] With these blokes I'd want it to be something big - say a thousand feet tall, vertical or better, with a summit and an awesome basecamp in a grassy meadow at the base of the wall. [IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Misc/139-3942_IMG_800x600.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Misc/139-3932_IMG_800x600.jpg[/IMG] We would suss out the best possibilities. We would agree on a line to attempt. We would give it a go. [IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Misc/138-3802_IMG_800x600.jpg[/IMG] We might advance and retreat a time or two - we're not rich people and we have to work for a living. But at the end of whole deal, ideally speaking, we'd have one or more new routes, and not have blabbed the location to the whole world so time and fitness permitting, we could go back on our own schedule to do more. [IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/139-3921_IMG_800x600.jpg[/IMG] Yes, this would be my dream FA. If I was nice perhaps the artist amongst my partners would take a simple ink pen and a scrap piece of paper and make me a killer drawing of this thing? [IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Tennessee/BrutusDrawing-1.gif[/IMG] Yes, this would be my dream FA. I have a few other dreams in play as well..... well, lots of them, now that I think about it. Cheers DMT
You're awesome Dingus! Good show.  Looks fun!
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evanwish
Mar 18, 2009, 10:38 PM
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i happened to get a first ascent (more like just a new variation) that crossed about five routes by an undercling and a section of slab traversing.
we wondered if it was was named and emailed the author of the local guidebook and he said to give it a name so "Curséd Cling, Pendulum Swing" it became.
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cracklover
Mar 18, 2009, 11:01 PM
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A two to four pitch tower in the desert, following a beautiful natural line, on good wingate, with an easy approach, with a nice view the whole time (maybe of the Colorado or Green River, or one of their tributaries) at 5.11 or easier.
Probably never happen, but I can dream!
GO
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vegastradguy
Mar 18, 2009, 11:05 PM
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ive been pretty fortunate to do a fair amount of FA work here in RR, but this one probably gets as close as i've ever gotten to a dream FA- a major crack system that goes at a moderate grade, ascending a major feature in RR.
it still waiting for a second ascent....
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._Disciple_88323.html
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slavetogravity
Mar 18, 2009, 11:07 PM
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Mine is a work in progress that started this last summer. It takes an obvious line up flawless corners and flakes on my favorite mountain and local alpine climbing spot of Mt. Gimli. 
Here's me on the curx pitch.
Looking down the 5.11a crux pitch 
Unfortunatly, I was thwarted by an unprotectable corner near the summit. My intention is to return this summer with my hammer drill and bolt the corner in question.
A dream climb for me is one that can and will be enjoyed by as many as possible. I figure if I'm going to start bolting, I'm going to bolt it right.
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jsj7051
Mar 18, 2009, 11:13 PM
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Mine would be a hand size splitter crack that prefers mid sized ridged stem pieces with room for a couple large sized nuts. I'd name it Nailin Pailin. Don't think it would be a true FA but I would love to Red Point that baby!
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Adk
Mar 18, 2009, 11:18 PM
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My first Fa was It's a wide One, 5.3 Moss Island NY. My second Fa was a couple of years ago. Dental Hygienist (5.4), Piseco Lake, Echo Cliffs, NY
I'm looking for a new project this summer hoping to shoot in the 5.6 range that being a multi-pitch route. I have a few singles that I'm looking forward to at Chimney Mountain NY. It's a mixed gneiss and sandstone.
Dream Fa?? I won't know it until I send it. I'm sure it will be < the 5.10 range and most probably Adirondack related.
Edit: Forgot how to spell. 
(This post was edited by Adk on Mar 18, 2009, 11:19 PM)
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climbingam
Mar 18, 2009, 11:24 PM
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In reply to: To be honest, I'm not interested in an FA. If one fell into my lap, I would be psyched, but I have no interest in seeking one out. I just love to climb great routes and I do not get to climb as much as I would like.
Yeah, I just love great climbs as well.
I'm relatively new and maybe my feeling is based on that but it doesn't matter if the entire local climbing community has done a climb, a real classic or something, it feels, to me, like a FA. I guess "my" FA of a route still feels pretty pure and awesome. I hope that feeling never goes away.
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rschap
Mar 18, 2009, 11:43 PM
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I kinda have my eye on an Alpine FA right now, I'm not in shape for it anymore but I'm working back up to it. I'm hopeing it will go 5.9 or lower but it will be atleast 9-12 pitches, and no I'm not saying where or on what. I'm thinking sometome next summer if I can find the right partner.
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subantz
Mar 19, 2009, 12:02 AM
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Funny you should mention it. I had a dream last night that there was a boulder in the back yard. I spent the whole dream climbing all over it. Then I woke up and there is no boulder in the backyard. 
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caleb_danner
Mar 19, 2009, 12:12 AM
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Mt. Borah est face
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coastal_climber
Mar 19, 2009, 12:13 AM
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My dream line is in progress. 3 pitches are up. The route would probably be around 15 pitches. Granite; slab, crack, face. Trad up to roofs. Nailing as well Fairly remote and committed. Looking forward to this summer
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guangzhou
Mar 19, 2009, 12:26 AM
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Lazlo wrote: What would be your most dreamy first ascent you'd like to put up? Would it be sport, trad, rap-bolt, ground-up, slab, over-hung, ect? I would love an overhanging aid route, at least five pitches in length (or manageable in one day at a semi-relaxed but efficient pace) in the cleanest of styles/no bolts. It would go at hard C2. No haul bag, no bivy. Back in town for beer. Oh, and it has to have a great vista the entire time.
Come over here, I have a half a dozen walls with a dozen potential routes on each that would be ideal for your dream first ascent.
Casual approach too. Maybe 15 or 20 minutes.
EMan
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