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caleb_danner


Mar 18, 2009, 9:21 PM
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are their only passive climbers out their
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I'm curious if their are any using only passive gear

Mo cow bell Wink

approach to climbing


granite_grrl


Mar 19, 2009, 5:28 AM
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Re: [caleb_danner] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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The subject of this thread pains me.


grampacharlie


Mar 19, 2009, 5:33 AM
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Henry Barber still uses only passive pro. The guy is a legend who has put up notable first ascents and first free ascents all over the world. He still climbs and can be found around NH fom time to time.

He's the most high profile climber I can think of, though there are some regions where that is the style.

Eastern Europe is know for bold styles and in the Check republic I beleive, they use only soft pro, meanin no metal touches the rock. (wedged knots, slung horns, ect.)

I like going sans cams from time to time on stuff below my onsight limit for shits and giggles. It really helps make for efficient gear placements in the long run.

Make sure that the first placement is multi-directional. Very important, or you could zipper everything out on a fall. (look in How to Rock Climb, by John Long for a good illustration on zippering)


johnwesely


Mar 19, 2009, 6:05 AM
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Re: [caleb_danner] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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I only climb on a rack of doubles of every tri cam size with triples in pink and red.


sungam


Mar 19, 2009, 6:38 AM
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Re: [caleb_danner] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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Hexes aren't always passive.


hansundfritz


Mar 19, 2009, 6:46 AM
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Re: [caleb_danner] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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Until a few years ago, I can say that I was virtually cam-free. I had a few older cams on my rack, but didn't place them very often. My climbing is mostly at the Gunks, so my old rigid-stem Friends were not as good there in the horizontals as Tri-Cams and even hexes. Even with the famed gunks tie-off, they never looked or felt right to me. I really like the Tri-cams there b/c they're multi-directional and don't walk -- especially for that first critical piece off the ledge, the Jesus Nut.

I have recently begun using a few TCUs and Camalots -- but honestly still reach for the stoppers, saddle wedges (yikes, what are those?), and Tri-Cams more often.

Not sure if your thread was intended to be serious, but there you have it from this old-timer.


acorneau


Mar 19, 2009, 7:18 AM
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I'm going to try to get in a passive-only climb this weekend. Back to the basics!
Cool


Tipton


Mar 19, 2009, 7:30 AM
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Re: [caleb_danner] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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I did all passive until just recently when I picked up a bunch of cams with my tax money. I enjoyed it and could climb pretty much whatever I wanted. I think I will continue to do the passive thing from time to time, I was just ready to start climbing harder trad and felt like picking up some cams would help speed my ascents on more difficult climbs. I also needed to expand my rack for multipitch climbing and with the cams and all my passive gear I should be completely covered.


andrewG


Mar 19, 2009, 8:01 AM
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Re: [sungam] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Hexes aren't always passive.

What about tricams and big bros?


reno


Mar 19, 2009, 8:03 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
The spelling of the subject line of this thread pains me.

Yep.


Lazlo


Mar 19, 2009, 8:13 AM
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Re: [Tipton] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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I climbed with a single set of nuts and hexes (BD) and a single .75 BD camalot for my first year of climbing. I learned a lot....but a 5.8 is much more daring with only one cam in your arsenal. Wink


GeneralZon


Mar 19, 2009, 8:14 AM
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Re: [reno] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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reno wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
The spelling of the subject line of this thread pains me.

Yep.

yea...Unsure


Lazlo


Mar 19, 2009, 8:15 AM
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Re: [andrewG] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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andrewG wrote:
sungam wrote:
Hexes aren't always passive.

What about tricams and big bros?

What about sliding nuts?


dr_feelgood


Mar 19, 2009, 8:55 AM
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Re: [acorneau] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
I'm going to try to get in a passive-only climb this weekend. Back to the basics!
Cool

Sweat will go easily if you have big tri-cams.


caleb_danner


Mar 19, 2009, 8:56 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
The subject of this thread pains me.

I know i spell Unsure


dr_feelgood


Mar 19, 2009, 9:03 AM
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Re: [caleb_danner] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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caleb_danner wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
The subject of this thread pains me.

I know i spell Unsure

Did t2stone reproduce again~~?


sungam


Mar 19, 2009, 9:14 AM
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Re: [Lazlo] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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Lazlo wrote:
andrewG wrote:
sungam wrote:
Hexes aren't always passive.

What about tricams and big bros?

What about sliding nuts?
I consider anything that relies on twisting, camming, or other movements to stay in positions. To me this includes cammed hexes, ball nutz, cammed tricams, cam hooks (leepers), copperheads and big bros. Passive includes threads, nuts, wedged hexes, pins, hooks, wedged tricams, wedged knots, chockstones, and cams with stops that are placed fully open (when you already used the right sized nut or whatever).
But of course that's just me.


acorneau


Mar 19, 2009, 9:23 AM
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Re: [dr_feelgood] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
acorneau wrote:
I'm going to try to get in a passive-only climb this weekend. Back to the basics!
Cool

Sweat will go easily if you have big tri-cams.

Yeah, I have a full set, but will probably leave them at home and take the nuts and hexes instead. We were on Sweat a couple weeks ago and I didn't think about the all-passive send. Probably will be on other stuff this weekend anyway.

Perhaps something in the Triple Cracks area....


andrewG


Mar 19, 2009, 10:44 AM
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Re: [sungam] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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I'd have to say sliding nuts are out. And anything without a spring is passive, even if when place correctly it has a camming action. Still torn on the big bro though, protects passively but is active to place (sort of). Maybe it should be based on the amount of fiddling to place, in which case big bros would be passive for sure.


sungam


Mar 19, 2009, 11:12 AM
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okay, I just thought of a better way to describe it. Active gear actively creates friction (which holds it in place) when pulled on. Passive relies on the rock being in the way of it's movement.


pornstarr


Mar 19, 2009, 11:22 AM
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Re: [sungam] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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all gear creates friction when pulled on, passive or not.


hafilax


Mar 19, 2009, 11:24 AM
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sungam wrote:
okay, I just thought of a better way to describe it. Active gear actively creates friction (which holds it in place) when pulled on. Passive relies on the rock being in the way of it's movement.
That's a ridiculous definition and many spring loaded camming device placements would actually fit in there. There are pod shaped placements that hold a cam without relying on the springs and camming angle friction. Cammed hexes, tricams and big bros rely on a feature of the rock to provide a pivot that holds them in place.

I would say that only ballnuts and SLCDs are active. Gear that relies on springs and movement within the device to engage the rock.

On easy climbs my friends and I often play gear games. Tricam only ascents. Nut only ascents. Some climbs take passive gear best and it doesn't even need to be contrived. I wouldn't make a day of it though.


sungam


Mar 19, 2009, 11:39 AM
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hafilax wrote:
sungam wrote:
okay, I just thought of a better way to describe it. Active gear actively creates friction (which holds it in place) when pulled on. Passive relies on the rock being in the way of it's movement.
That's a ridiculous definition and many spring loaded camming device placements would actually fit in there. There are pod shaped placements that hold a cam without relying on the springs and camming angle friction. Cammed hexes, tricams and big bros rely on a feature of the rock to provide a pivot that holds them in place.
See what I said about tricams and cams placed passively.
As far as hexes and tricams needing a feature... they really don't.
I honestly can't say with big bros, never having used one or even held one in my hands.
Of course they all create friction, but in a 0 friction world nuts would still work, wouldn't they? As would threads. Pins are friction based too, I guess, but I still wouldn't call them active.


joeforte


Mar 19, 2009, 11:39 AM
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Sometimes I climb things with just my 5 WC hexes. Makes me all fuzzy inside. I remember climbing a 90 foot crack that went from fingers to fists, and I placed all five hexes, in exact order, smallest to biggest.


patmay81


Mar 19, 2009, 11:40 AM
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Re: [sungam] are their only passive climbers out their [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
okay, I just thought of a better way to describe it. Active gear actively creates friction (which holds it in place) when pulled on. Passive relies on the rock being in the way of it's movement.
technically the rock IS in the way of the cam lobes, but I wont be a smart ass. I got your point.
to the OP, I climb exclusively on active pro. nuts and hexes suck!
nah, I'm just kidding. I do love finding bomber natural placements (slung chocks and horns, threaded features) and nothing feels as secure as a bomber #11 BD nut placement. But I also really like the ease of placement of cams and don't think I would ever care to try an "all passive" climb any time soon.

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