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garrettweaver
Mar 22, 2009, 8:58 PM
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Hey everyone,
I got a question for y'all. I have been practicing aiding and cleaning pitches and one thing I noticed is that nuts can be difficult to take out when aiding on them because they are always weighted (unlike free climbing). I have been carrying a rock in my pocket and tapping on the nut tool with it to clean the nuts. However, these have all been single pitch climbs. So, with longer clean aid climbs do teams usually carry one hammer for cleaning (not for placing pins) or how else would one clean all those weighted nuts?
Garrett
(This post was edited by garrettweaver on Mar 22, 2009, 8:58 PM)
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coastal_climber
Mar 23, 2009, 12:26 AM
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Most people use hammers. You can get fairly reasonably priced ones, or you can get this one:
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rschap
Mar 23, 2009, 12:51 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
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If you're just tapping your nut tool and not pulling pins I would buy a cheap light hardware store hammer. I paid like $80 for one of thouse BD hammers and I have never needed it for anything my estwing 12oz wouldn't have handled (I think it's lighter too).
(This post was edited by rschap on Mar 23, 2009, 12:53 AM)
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garrettweaver
Mar 23, 2009, 1:22 PM
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Hello everyone,
Thanks for the responses. I think I will go with a normal climbing hammer because I do eventually (2-3 years) want to get into some nailing routes (example Zodiac). I just wanted to make sure that people wouldn't freak out if they saw someone on a clean aid route with a hammer (no pins though). Also, what tool do people use to place bashies. I know these are not part of clean aid, but I still want to learn how to place them for routes that are dependent on them as fixed gear. I heard a lost arrow would work in a pinch, but is there a real tool for the job.
Garrett
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garrettweaver
Mar 23, 2009, 5:08 PM
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Thanks for the links they were very helpful. If a climbing team wanted to attempt Zodiac as a completely clean wall what would be an example of their rack? How many sets of offsets and ballnuts?
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tomtom
Mar 23, 2009, 8:55 PM
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Here's the rack we used on Zodiac in '06:
2 beaks
2 sawed angles: 1 ea 3/4" and 1"
nuts: regular and offset
micronuts: Trango brassies and HB offsets
ballnuts: 1-3
WC Zeros: 1-6
Hybrid aliens: 2 ea blk/blu to yel/red
Cams: 2 ea 0.5-4 C4 Camalot
2 ea #5 WC Tech Friend
hooks: 2 ea bat to 2" (inc pointed)
Cam Hooks
12 rivet hangers
We did have a selection of pins, but they and the big hammer stayed in the haul bag. I made one stick clip move past a blown copperhead placement.
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pmyche
Mar 26, 2009, 4:54 PM
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dingus
Mar 26, 2009, 5:20 PM
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tomtom I'm curious my friend.... (I don't know the answer) - is the 'Zodiac not a nailing route' include the post-Minerals cleanup of all the permo-cheater bullshit on the route?
I was under the impresson it was again a nailing route but having never been on the route I have to ask?
DMT
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tomtom
Mar 26, 2009, 5:47 PM
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pmyche wrote: tomtom wrote: 1. Zodiac is NOT a nailing route. It can be climbed clean with the usual array of aid tools: Small ball nuts, hand placed sawed off pitons, offset cams, tapered nuts. You forgot to mention your cheater stick.
Ya. I stick clipped past a blown copperhead placement on alt p1. The placement looked more like a spoon than a seam. Other folks have climbed the reg P1 without nailing.
(This post was edited by tomtom on Mar 26, 2009, 6:00 PM)
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tomtom
Mar 26, 2009, 5:54 PM
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dingus wrote: tomtom I'm curious my friend.... (I don't know the answer) - is the 'Zodiac not a nailing route' include the post-Minerals cleanup of all the permo-cheater bullshit on the route? I was under the impresson it was again a nailing route but having never been on the route I have to ask?
We climbed it in Sept '06 after the cleanup and there was some, but not a lot of additional fixed gear. We were competent, but not expert aid climbers. Other teams have reported clean climbing it since then as well.
I believe that if other teams approach it as a clean climbing route, they will succeed. We had pins and a hammer in the bottom of the bag and left them there.
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dingus
Mar 26, 2009, 6:10 PM
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tomtom wrote: dingus wrote: tomtom I'm curious my friend.... (I don't know the answer) - is the 'Zodiac not a nailing route' include the post-Minerals cleanup of all the permo-cheater bullshit on the route? I was under the impresson it was again a nailing route but having never been on the route I have to ask? We climbed it in Sept '06 after the cleanup and there was some, but not a lot of additional fixed gear. We were competent, but not expert aid climbers. Other teams have reported clean climbing it since then as well. I believe that if other teams approach it as a clean climbing route, they will succeed. We had pins and a hammer in the bottom of the bag and left them there.
Right on dude, thanks. (and well done!)
DMT
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