Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
How many shovels do yu rack when leading?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


billcoe_


Mar 27, 2009, 8:47 AM
Post #1 of 36 (5109 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4693

How many shovels do yu rack when leading?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

On the hex thread, I realized that our experinces and areas are so different that we are almost not discussing the same sport.

People rack up different sized shovels around here at certain places. Do you do this at your area?






See the big one in the lower pic that has a sling on the handle for racking? There are smaller sizes that get carried more frequently on the harder routes as no one but a Noob carries a big shovel for a hard route...we all can't be in Yosemite and places like that where the cracks are long, parallel and dry.


Partner epoch
Moderator

Mar 27, 2009, 8:54 AM
Post #2 of 36 (5092 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 32163

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have racked a garden trowel and a smaller pry bar on a few climbs. This, along with three different sizes of brushes.

There's no shame in it!


Valarc


Mar 27, 2009, 8:57 AM
Post #3 of 36 (5081 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 19, 2007
Posts: 1473

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

These pictures are useless without green and red arrows.


hafilax


Mar 27, 2009, 9:13 AM
Post #4 of 36 (5053 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [Valarc] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've been told that old ice axes are good for cleaning out mossy cracks Squamish style.


k.l.k


Mar 27, 2009, 9:24 AM
Post #5 of 36 (5038 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 9, 2007
Posts: 1190

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

If that was my area, I'd quit climbing.


Although it gives me a good deal of insight into some of your posting habits.


acorneau


Mar 27, 2009, 9:34 AM
Post #6 of 36 (5019 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What's the best pro for moss?




LaughWinkTongue


bill413


Mar 27, 2009, 9:36 AM
Post #7 of 36 (5010 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [acorneau] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

acorneau wrote:
What's the best pro for moss?




LaughWinkTongue

Wouldn't it depend on how deep it goes? Tent stakes maybe?


hafilax


Mar 27, 2009, 9:44 AM
Post #8 of 36 (4997 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [bill413] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Spectres if it's frozen.


dobson


Mar 27, 2009, 9:55 AM
Post #9 of 36 (4978 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 104

Re: [hafilax] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hafilax wrote:
Spectres if it's frozen.

Or maybe a warthog.

Sucks to be you guys. I'd just climb with ice tools. Dirt would matter much less when your pick gets through it. When frozen, moss is really fun to climb.

All the "gardening" I've done was accomplished with a small knife and my nut tool.


jpetsch123


Mar 27, 2009, 2:24 PM
Post #10 of 36 (4892 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 8, 2008
Posts: 31

Re: [acorneau] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

duct tape


fxgranite


Mar 27, 2009, 2:27 PM
Post #11 of 36 (4888 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 1, 2007
Posts: 358

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I wonder if the moss softens the blow when you slip on said moss....

Or is the shovel for just digging graves at the base of routes like that?Wink


jeepnphreak


Mar 27, 2009, 2:45 PM
Post #12 of 36 (4873 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 1259

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have never racked a shovel, just a nut tool.
OUr rock never have moss and growth like that on them. It too dry, my favorite craig has lot and lots of cacti and poison oak at the base.


jeremy11


Mar 27, 2009, 3:03 PM
Post #13 of 36 (4862 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2004
Posts: 597

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

That is sweet. I call it Vertical Bushwacking. Twice I've had to top out just digging my hands into the dirt. Kinda scary, downward pressure only. Probably normal for your area.... Also, burrowing through thick spider webs - and that was on a sport route! Digging dirt out of a crack, while aiding up it, only to have ants come out and start eating me. Gotta love adventure climbing, even when it is short!
I still haven't brought a shovel up yet though.


sandstone


Mar 27, 2009, 4:04 PM
Post #14 of 36 (4837 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 21, 2004
Posts: 324

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Love the photos, I can relate. Style points for doing the cleaning ground up!

I've never racked a shovel, but I have racked a folding hand saw, a crowbar, a sawed off broom, a garden trowel, and of course a nice selection of brushes.

The old Chouinard alpine hammer, with the "gardening" pick, is an awesome FA tool. I've dug out many cracks and pried many blocks with that thing. One time I even used it for climbing a steep dirt top out.

Rapping with a chainsaw hanging from your harness is also a treat not to be missed!
[No one get their panties in a wad, it was for cutting a big dead tree that was dangling dangerously from a big ledge halfway up the cliff. I ruined both the chain and the bar getting all the roots out, but the results were worth it. The biggest job was cleaning up the base of the cliff afterward.]


Partner robdotcalm


Mar 27, 2009, 4:15 PM
Post #15 of 36 (4824 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1027

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Where were those pictures taken? What's the route?

Cheers,
Rob.calm


lofstromc


Mar 27, 2009, 4:34 PM
Post #16 of 36 (4804 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 528

Re: [k.l.k] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have no interest in climbing something like that.
Ugh.


bill413


Mar 27, 2009, 5:02 PM
Post #17 of 36 (4781 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [sandstone] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sandstone wrote:
Rapping with a chainsaw hanging from your harness is also a treat not to be missed!
[No one get their panties in a wad, it was for cutting a big dead tree that was dangling dangerously from a big ledge halfway up the cliff. I ruined both the chain and the bar getting all the roots out, but the results were worth it. The biggest job was cleaning up the base of the cliff afterward.]
Shucks - I was hoping you'd tell us how you used it for pro. (I suppose it's not a good idea to sling the blade)


mr.tastycakes


Mar 28, 2009, 7:02 PM
Post #18 of 36 (4638 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [k.l.k] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

k.l.k wrote:
If that was my area, I'd quit climbing.

my thoughts exactly (no disrespect to the OP). I'm impressed by the effort some people make to climb outside.


kobaz


Mar 28, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #19 of 36 (4598 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

At first I thought "Man, are those pictures even real? It looks like the land that time forgot, where the cliffs were overgrown with pastel colored shrubberies and moss."


Hammertoes


Mar 28, 2009, 10:36 PM
Post #20 of 36 (4568 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2009
Posts: 21

Re: [kobaz] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Those pictures take me back- early 70's, virgin shale, mud impacted basalt and granite up north under the moss. I really don't miss those Northwest climbs to no where. But it makes me laugh to see it still being attempted and to know 'the dude' abides!


moose_droppings


Mar 28, 2009, 11:04 PM
Post #21 of 36 (4563 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

On really grungy routes I'll rack a #2 Union with the always handy #1 tile spade. Anything worse the TNT comes out.


tradrenn


Mar 30, 2009, 1:18 PM
Post #22 of 36 (4427 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dear God, WTF is this shit ?
Reminds me of Onterrible.


clee03m


Mar 30, 2009, 4:26 PM
Post #23 of 36 (4396 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 785

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Wow, my guess is that either the area is dismal or first ascent is really important to some folks. I will try to remember the word "shovel" when I want to start bitching about climbs polished to a sheen.


graniteboy


Mar 30, 2009, 5:30 PM
Post #24 of 36 (4362 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092

Re: [billcoe_] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nope. I try not to get involved in shoveling pound after pound of vegetation, dirt, fungus, and god knows what other living stuff off of my first ascents.

I kinda figger, if you hafta stoop that low to get an FA on what appears from your photos to be a 5.5 sort of climb in your area ( I'm assuming Portland/Dalles/etc in your case) , you'd probably be better off going buildering in the downtown region. Might even get some climbing in that way, instead of spending the day tossing dirt on your belayer.


bill413


Mar 30, 2009, 5:37 PM
Post #25 of 36 (4358 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [graniteboy] How many shovels do yu rack when leading? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Now that's why belayers should wear face shields with their helmets!

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$40.46 (10% off)
$35.96 (10% off)
$12.56 (10% off)
$33.26 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook