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Retreating from a climb
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Alpine07


Mar 29, 2009, 7:54 PM
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Retreating from a climb
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So i've had this question buzzing around my head for a bit now. What is the preferred method for retreating from a big wall climb? Mainly getting the enormous haul bags down. I can certainly envision methods of doing it, but am wondering what is the best way to go about it.



[epoch edited this title]


(This post was edited by epoch on Mar 29, 2009, 8:52 PM)


Partner epoch
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Mar 29, 2009, 8:54 PM
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Re: [Alpine07] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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I broke this from the Beginner Aid in New England thread, since this is a new question that was unrelated to the conversation in that thread.

Cheers!


Alpine07


Mar 29, 2009, 9:05 PM
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Re: [epoch] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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Hey, sorry about that. Thanks for correcting it Smile


pmyche


Mar 29, 2009, 9:39 PM
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tomtom


Mar 30, 2009, 1:19 PM
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Re: [Alpine07] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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When retreating from a route with haul bags, you get to 'ride the pigs'. The key is to put the bags on rappel and attach yourself to the bags.

Here's a long-winded explanation:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...forum.cgi?post=21375


pmyche


Mar 30, 2009, 9:36 PM
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Re: [tomtom] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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Invaluable technique, 100% yes. I don't think it's going to come much into play on the hardest bail pitches, though. On a rap route or where it's relatively plumb, definitely.

I never really understood how people make the technique complicated. Clip the bag to your belay loop or rap device biner. Rap. Clip bag to anchor, then yourself.


Alpine07


Mar 31, 2009, 7:38 PM
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Re: [pmyche] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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Thanks, very well composed post. Exactly what I had been searching for.

On the last bit about haul lines. What is the reason for not recommending 8mm haul lines? Less durable would be a factor I would guess. I'm thinking to just designate a older dynamic cord as a haul line, good course of action?


pmyche


Mar 31, 2009, 9:45 PM
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Re: [Alpine07] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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Glad to help, A07. Thankfully tomtom bailed me out on my hasty oversight.

I wasn't clear about the haul lines. I love 8mm lines whenever I don't have to rap them singly and jug them. As haul lines, they're great. 8mm just starts getting a little spooky to me for life support. No problem in a pinch, but I don't plan ahead to jug 8mm line as routine. Petzl jugs are rated down to 8mm, but still... I'm sure some mountaineers would laugh at me.

I had a PMI 8mm that lasted way longer than any other 8 mils I've owned. I'd like to get another one. After your 8mm gets coreshot, that dia. makes a nice let-out line or TR extension.

PS: Recycled lead line for haul line: Great plan IMO.


(This post was edited by pmyche on Apr 1, 2009, 11:28 AM)


tomtom


Apr 1, 2009, 1:06 PM
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Re: [Alpine07] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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Alpine07 wrote:
What is the reason for not recommending 8mm haul lines?

Less margin for error. If your upper belay is not directly above the lower, you'll be lowering out the bags. A weighted haul line can get cut if it's dragging across a sharp edge as you lower it out. Thicker ropes have thicker sheaths and can handle more such nonsense.


moof


Apr 1, 2009, 3:24 PM
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Re: [Alpine07] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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If you're climbing with a partner, and the route is a real mofo to rap (overhanging, traversing) then here's the simply sequence I've done:

1. Dude 1 down aids with just a light rack, and the haul line in tow (Dude 2 can pay it out to keep the cluster and snags under control). Bouncing and swinging allow Dude 1 to put a piece in only every 20-30' depending on the severity, just often enough to keep the swinging and frictioning reasonable.

2. Dude 1 get to the anchor and builds a minimalist anchor suitable for hanging 2 dudes and their crap on. The end of the haul line is fixed to the lower anchor.

3. Dude 2 raps with the pigs. At the bottom either Dude 1 pulls him in, or for only moderate overhangs/penjis Dude 2 can yard himself in.

4. Dude 1 jugs the lead line and cleans the gear, realizing how badly he hosed himself with widely spaced gear... Any residual anchor at the top is cleaned. Dude 1 raps back down. Lines are pulled and the process is repeated until a fresh supply of beer is at hand.


Alpine07


Apr 2, 2009, 3:59 PM
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Re: [moof] Retreating from a climb [In reply to]
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Awesome, thanks for the replies. It's now time to head to the crag to practice down aiding and "riding the pigs," this should be fun. Cool


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