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critterdude542
Mar 30, 2009, 4:32 AM
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So i was out climbing today and my friend and i were warming up on an easy 5.8. He lead it, left the draws up and then i was going to lead it.
I clipped the first bolt fine, clipped the second bolt fine and as i made my moves to get above the 2nd bolt, i looked down to see my quickdraw unclip itself from the bolt hanger and slide down to the first bolt.
I didnt backclip or anything, it was just spooky cause i immediately realized i would deck if i fell. anyways has this ever happened to anyone else? how does it happen and how can i avoid it in the future?
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currupt4130
Mar 30, 2009, 6:01 AM
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I always try to clip with my gate facing away from the bolt for this reason.
What can happen when you clip with the gate facing the bolt, especially with wires, is that if you put a lot tension on the draw and manage to rotate the draw up, you can make it so that the gate contacts the end of the bolt and opens and leverages itself out of the hanger.
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Craggmire
Mar 30, 2009, 6:54 AM
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you clip with the gate facing towards you? Wouldn't you be screwed if you fell on the side the rope was feeding into? sorta like a back clip.
Perhaps I'm misunderstanding you.
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pendereki
Mar 30, 2009, 10:46 AM
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I clip with the gate facing away from the direction of travel, that way as the rope lifts the draw, it is the spine of the 'biner that contacts the bolt hanger, not the gate.
OP, even if you are doing everything right, sometimes stuff happens. Climbing is dangerous.
CM
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shockabuku
Mar 30, 2009, 11:40 AM
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Wow, lotta replies to this thread!
(This post was edited by shockabuku on Mar 30, 2009, 11:49 AM)
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shockabuku
Mar 30, 2009, 11:57 AM
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If you do a search you'll find a number of threads on this topic. I think at least one of them is linked to a site that has some pictures showing how that works. Yes, it happens (infrequently). It is primarily dependent on the orientation of the bolt end biner on your quickdraw.
Try to clip with the gate of the bolt end biner facing away from the direction you will be climbing. That way, as the rope end biner is lifted up, causing the draw to rotate about the bolt hanger, the spine (and not the gate) of the biner rotates into contact with the bolt head/bolt hanger. Try it both ways and you can see the difference. The rotation can cause the gate to press against the bolt/hanger and open up if it's hung in one orientation vs. the other.
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currupt4130
Mar 30, 2009, 2:18 PM
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pendereki wrote: I clip with the gate facing away from the direction of travel, that way as the rope lifts the draw, it is the spine of the 'biner that contacts the bolt hanger, not the gate. OP, even if you are doing everything right, sometimes stuff happens. Climbing is dangerous. CM
I've played with it on some bolts that were low enough to clip from the ground. I always got it to do it by hanging the gate on the bolt. I'll have to try it the other way.
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jt512
Mar 30, 2009, 6:38 PM
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Over 4 billion replies. I'm not reading that.
Jay
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brotherbbock
Mar 30, 2009, 8:29 PM
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jt512 wrote: Over 4 billion replies. I'm not reading that. Jay
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clee03m
Mar 30, 2009, 8:55 PM
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Me, too. At work and thought, "That's gotta be a good thread."
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dingus
Mar 30, 2009, 9:06 PM
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jt512 wrote: Over 4 billion replies. I'm not reading that. Jay
Its the McDonald's Tread!
DMT
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yokese
Mar 30, 2009, 9:08 PM
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jt512 wrote: Over 4 billion replies. I'm not reading that. Jay
Nah, it's just barely over four thousand millions to me... 
For those that didn't get it.
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fxgranite
Mar 30, 2009, 9:19 PM
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jt512 wrote: Over 4 billion replies. I'm not reading that. Jay
I mean, if it was 3 billion sure, no problem. But 4 billion?! I ain't reading it.
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angry
Mar 30, 2009, 9:23 PM
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Eat that BET!!
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chanceboarder
Mar 30, 2009, 9:39 PM
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4 billion replies and not a single piece of useful information.
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chanceboarder
Mar 30, 2009, 9:52 PM
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angry wrote: chanceboarder wrote: 4 billion replies and not a single piece of useful information. What's new?
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patto
Mar 30, 2009, 10:45 PM
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Good old 32 bit numbers!!!
2^32-1=4294967295
(This post was edited by patto on Mar 30, 2009, 10:45 PM)
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jt512
Mar 30, 2009, 11:51 PM
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patto wrote: Good old 32 bit numbers!!! 2^32-1=4294967295
Damn it! You beat me by 16 min.
Jay
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billcoe_
Mar 31, 2009, 11:10 PM
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There's more reply's on the microfracture thread anyway ....yawwn
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kachoong
Apr 1, 2009, 7:13 PM
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yokese wrote: jt512 wrote: Over 4 billion replies. I'm not reading that. Jay Nah, it's just barely over four thousand millions to me... For those that didn't get it.
Is that an African or European billion?
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hafilax
Apr 1, 2009, 8:03 PM
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So can anyone explain the glitch?
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